Intake mani and tb question!

Discussion in 'Mustang Chit Chat' started by Cmarris, Dec 3, 2018 at 4:27 PM.

  1. Cmarris

    Cmarris Junior Member

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    I have a 05 gt manual with longtubes, catless x pipe, cmdp's, airaid intake with 93 tune, hot rod cams, udp's, aluminum driveshaft, 4.10 gears. I was thinking about ordering the Ford racing intake mani and 62mm throttle body and was wondering if it would be worth it with my current mods. I've heard the intake mani looses power down low with certain mods, but I've also heard they do really good with cams and longtubes, thanks!
     
  2. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    I believe it is worth it, especially if you are talking about the FRPP throttle body and not an aftermarket deal.
    With your gearing and support mods you will like the power curve
     
  3. 702GT

    702GT S197 Fanatic

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    Buy a nitrous kit, and/or save for FI. TB/mani aren't gonna yield great returns. For anything you'll pick up peak, you'd have to knock off the bottom end. You'll typically lose more under the curve than what you'll gain in peak. Maybe with a more aggressive cam you could rev it far enough to make up for it, but not with hotrods. I had the FRPP mani/GT500 TB, I got rid of them both when I went FI. My NA numbers were 360whp/320wtq. FI is what you see in the sig, short an e85 revision. If I was going to push more boost (14+psi) I would have kept the manifold and TB, but the stock manifold makes just gobs of lovely torque when you push it just right. Which makes for gobs of fun on the street. Thing pulled like a PD blown 3v.

    Anyway, between the cost of the parts and tuning for it, if you're spending more than $500, I'd say it's not worth what you'll pick up up top.
     
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  4. 07gts197

    07gts197 forum member

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    I read a thread a while back where someone did back to back dynos of the same mustang with cmdp’s and the frpp intake and the difference was almost nothing. You might make more with the frpp intake like others have said since its a short runner intake but if its a street car youll regret it.
     
  5. Cmarris

    Cmarris Junior Member

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    Alright, it is a street car so I will just leave the stock intake on it, what about the frpp throttle body then?
     
  6. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

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    Don't bother. With your current mods you're probably sitting at around 340rwhp/330rwtq. Adding the FRPP manifold and 62mm TB would cost you ~$1300 (unless you can find them used) plus a dyno tune and you'd end up somewhere around 355rwhp/330rwtq. A lot of money for not much gain (anything you do gain will be above 4500rpm), with peak torque concentrated between 4000-6000rpm. Great for drag racing but not ideal for a street car.
     
  7. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8 S197 Team Member

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    mani? Too much effort type manifold? God damn it's like fucking "dizzy" because someone is too lazy to type distributor. Mother fucking fast and furious bullshit. Thanks Vin Diesel!
     
  8. JeremyH

    JeremyH 3V Fuel Guru S197 Team Member

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    Rev her up to 6800-6900 with the manifold and it would do well. The gears will make up for any down low losses. Only piece your missing is the the frpp cnc heads. That whole package was designed to work together. The heads/cams/manifold/and throttle body.
     
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  9. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

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    "FBO" for full bolt ons is the new thing and it makes me cringe.

    Cmarris, your car is at the point of full bolt on now and you've reached diminishing returns on a NA 4.6. I wouldn't say the intake will cost power down low, but rather a shift in the power curve. I would go with what others said and save for FI/nitrous.
     
  10. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

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    I agree but the Ford Performance CNC heads (48cc chamber, oversize valves, upgraded valve springs), head changing kit, intake manifold, and 62mm TB cost a total of ~$4700 and you'd still only be at ~380rwhp. That's the same cost as a Department Of Boost GT450 supercharger kit. I think N/A builds are cool but there comes a stage where the laws of diminishing returns make them no longer cost effective.
     
  11. ghunt81

    ghunt81 New parts on old junk! S197 Team Member

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    Last edited: Dec 4, 2018 at 10:22 AM
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  12. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8 S197 Team Member

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    Boost is the most cost effective way to add power to any engine. If the 331 in my foxbody goes south on me, it will be replaced with a turbo engine to be determined. Probably a 351W with a single. There is no sense in bothering with a stroker or building a better N/A engine unless it is really bad to start with. Just add boost. 12psi on a 300hp 4.6 is around 550hp. Say that boost cost $7000 to add. You won't get even close to that N/A for $7000.
     
  13. hockeygod

    hockeygod forum member

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    I was exactly where you are now a few years ago. Save your money and go F/I. The stock throttle body and manifold flow plenty of air for the level your currently at. You will see much larger gains if you were to say add on a centri blower or nitrous to one of those manifolds. By itself there is not much power per dollar gained.
     
  14. Totheboards

    Totheboards Junior Member

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    Am I the only one that hits 6500 rpm every time I drive the car to work? Hey I run that combo with long tubes and its fun, reliable, and uhh not that fast. My recommendation would be to stick with the stock manifold and TB unless you are going to use that high rpm HP gain. I have another FRPP manifold lying around that I've been meaning to post for sale...
     
  15. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    The amount of worrying about the man's wallet in here it too damn high. Y'all sound like a bunch of grumpy old men!
    These are great finishing touches to a NA 3v and will return the investment in the form of added power with a power adder for sure. The key here is to have adequate gears in the rear, which you do.
     
  16. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

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    LOL!
    It's really about helping the OP to make an informed choice so that he gets the most bang for his buck.

    http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/S197_Bolt_Ons.htm
     
  17. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8 S197 Team Member

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    It's about cautioning to be smart with the money. No need to just piss money down the toilet because you can.
     
  18. 702GT

    702GT S197 Fanatic

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    These threads always end up the same lol.

    OP if you like NA power and want to stay NA for a while, go for it! The TB, with or without the Intake Manifold, will yield marginal gains (if any). It'll be more of a decoration than functional part. The intake manifold, as Jeremy stated, can yield some extra ponies up top. But I'm pretty sure if I remember correctly, the hotrods will flatline around 6300rpm, and fall on their face around 6500-6600rpm. So you'll have a 200-300rpm window where you'll have a flat powerband before you're just reving the engine for shits 'n giggles.

    If I had to stamp numbers on the parts, I'd say 0-5whp for the TB, and 15-30whp for the mani (high end depends on fuel and how aggressively it's tuned, but I feel it's possible to squeeze 30whp out of just the manifold). Again, you're going to take a hit on the bottom end and low-mid range. It's gonna get soggy. Gearing will absorb some of it, but even with 4.10's if you stomp on it from 2k/rpm, it's not going to be less impressive than it is now. TB may actually hurt torque a bit depending on the tuner. If he just copies and pastes the throttle curve from stock, there's a lot more CFM flowing through a 62mm twin at 25% throttle than a twin 55mm at 25% throttle, if you know what I mean. More air volume reduces velocity at lower engine speeds, thereby reducing momentum of air resulting in less torque.

    If bang for the buck isn't a thing, why even ask the forum. If it is a thing, don't do it. Let the next step for your S197 be out of the light, and into boost. Get a built shortblock and choose your FI for the block's best potential (usually somewhere around 600-800whp). No sense in buying baby blowers and wanting more down the road. Strap a D1 or F1 to the beast and you'll have room to grow into the blowers potential. Believe it or not, a F1 *can* make less than 10psi and be perfectly safe for a stock bottom end. Assuming the WG doesn't fail.. lol.
     
  19. ghunt81

    ghunt81 New parts on old junk! S197 Team Member

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  20. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8 S197 Team Member

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    Just add this....

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