Straight 100% distilled water will extract way more heat vs a 50-50 water-glycol mix. But the trick is, then you also require 1 full container of redline's..."water-wetter" in the loop. Royal purple also makes their version...called 'purple ice'. I believe both versions come with anti rust inhibitors built into them.....so no additional anti corrosion is required. 0% glycol won't work in the fall/winter...so you would have to change the coolant twice a year. (50-50 in fall /winter)
The intercooler extracts the heat...and the grille mounted HE dumps the heat. A 8-12-20 gpm pump will extract heat faster...but you have to be able to dump that extra extracted heat at the same or a faster rate. Otherwise you will just be circulating hot water in a loop.
The OEM HE that comes with the 05-09 Roush M90 blower is on the small side. Steeda / Afco etc, etc make better ones..like dual and even triple core types....with and without fans. A bigger capacity DE-gas container will also help. The oem roush 05-09 bottle is too small. The one on my 2010 M90 is double the size.
If you don't have the 9 bar grille on your car... it comes highly recommended. That alone will increase airflow by at least 70%. It will also eliminate the 2 x 90 deg bends into the CAI. Air is free..so why not use it.
Another approach to reducing under hood temps is the use of ceramic coated LT's. I had installed JBA titanium ceramic coated LT's....and my under hood temps dropped a whole bunch...like 40 deg F. I can touch any of the 8 x primary 1 5/8" tubes within 3 mins of shutting the eng off. B4, the black steeda STB across the top of the blower would burn my fingers. The theory here is...don't generate the heat to begin with. Ceramic coated exhaust systems are dipped...and coated on both the inside and outside. The exhaust is hotter inside the LT's = flows faster. LT's imo were worth it alone...for the increase in TQ from idle to wot. The ones I used had 1 5/8" primary..and 2.5" collector.
Jimbo
