Kenne Bell 2.6 Install

TylerM

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EDIT: That front corner sensor is IAT?

View attachment 73589

View attachment 73590
Yes. Per the instructions

The old method was cutting the MAF sensor off and relocating it to the other side and soldering back into the harness. The two outer wires of the MAF (I believe) on each side of the plug would be soldered to a new connector for that plug.

In the new method, an entire extension about 5 feet long is included with the kit that automatically splits out for the IAT and MAF. So there is no more cutting and splicing.


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Lcfrshadow

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I'm running th lightning maf, which I believe is a 6 wire. I had to get the adapter harness that is a 4 wire. Does this eliminate that manifold sensor? Should I plug it?
 

TylerM

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I'm running th lightning maf, which I believe is a 6 wire. I had to get the adapter harness that is a 4 wire. Does this eliminate that manifold sensor? Should I plug it?
It does not eliminate the plug. I'm running an SCT aftermarket MAF and I had to use the harness.

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Lcfrshadow

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I dont have any wire wires left to plug into that sensor.
 
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Lcfrshadow

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I think i have figured it out. 2 wires need to be cut from the maf. They are the maf IAT signal wires. These two wires need to be spliced into a connector to the IAT sensor on the intake manifold. Can anyone confirm this theory.
 

TylerM

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I think i have figured it out. 2 wires need to be cut from the maf. They are the maf IAT signal wires. These two wires need to be spliced into a connector to the IAT sensor on the intake manifold. Can anyone confirm this theory.
That's what I was saying earlier

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Lcfrshadow

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Yes. Per the instructions

The old method was cutting the MAF sensor off and relocating it to the other side and soldering back into the harness. The two outer wires of the MAF (I believe) on each side of the plug would be soldered to a new connector for that plug.

In the new method, an entire extension about 5 feet long is included with the kit that automatically splits out for the IAT and MAF. So there is no more cutting and splicing.



You were absolutely write. I dont know why I didn't understand what you were saying. Maybe it is my fear of cutting wires. Thanks for everyone's support. Especially since this was thread jacked. Lol
 

TylerM

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No worries. I'm glad you were able to find help as I was.

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Lcfrshadow

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So what IAT sensor do we use. I go to the parts store and the only one they have isn't a threaded sensor. What year and model works for us?
 

Lcfrshadow

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I guess I'll order it online. All the parts stores carry only one type, when I inquire about the sensor. Thanks Jump$. Punctual as usual.
 

TexasBlownV8

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Did you ever get this all resolved? I had a KB 2.6 setup on mine for a few years, got pics of various things. There was a hard-copy manual, but I think I gave it to the new owner of the setup.
If you need any help, feel free to PM me or post here.
 

TylerM

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Did you ever get this all resolved? I had a KB 2.6 setup on mine for a few years, got pics of various things. There was a hard-copy manual, but I think I gave it to the new owner of the setup.
If you need any help, feel free to PM me or post here.
Car is up and running and being tuned. Working on a low boost issue now. I have a 3.5" on the car and only making about up to about 7psi with stock heads and mostly stock exhaust (axlebacks).

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TylerM

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Belt wasn't tight enough. Put a bigger idler on and the car is running a lot stronger. Idle surging is gone.

Got a new transducer from New Vintage to install. I tested the one I had using a mechanical gauge from my lab. Pressurized the transducer and mechanical gauge in series with a bicycle pump. Mechanical gauge read 5psi and the gauge inside the car read 15psi. Going to get that installed and see if it makes a difference. I would like an accurate reading to go off of for diagnostics. I know what the boost pressure actually means and the relationship of pulley size, blower speed, and airflow

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