Lets build a 5.0 ...vendors welcome

Nastystang06

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Ok so my 5.0 engine is smoking badly and has a ton of blowby after 4k miles and a jlt intake, email tune, and exhaust

im not blaming #8 yet but i do know there is ring failure or piston failure somewhere

so here is my plan :)

i have a ton of experience with the 4.6 modulars so im going to rip this badboy apart

my questions are who sells the best kit, or can put me a kit together for forged rods and pistons, and whats the most i can bore incase i have a scarred cylinder

and can someone educate me on the piston squirters and if i should e;liminate these

i want to keep the same compression as stock so i can crank this thing up on the stock tune and break it in for a few thousand miles

after that i will be buying a turbo, i see plenty of cars making over 600 with 11:1 so i dont see why i cant make plenty like that and with a turbo

and i may do a mild port and polish on the heads, but idk if that would work with the stock tune
 

Dillon Dollar

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Call BBR

but if i was you i would just drop the compression a little, if your going to build it do it right so later you can push 700 + and not worry... in the boss i know the squirters are eliminated
 

Nastystang06

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Why are the squirters eliminated?

And if I drop the compression would I still be able to fire it up on the stock tune?

I thought maybe the high compression would help me get out of the hole faster since its manual and will be turbo... MAYBE ds1c im very pulled on these two lol
 

Coyotetivct

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The forged piston has more bottom squirt and hits the piston oilers. They are used in the regular Coyote because hyper piston can't take the same amount of heat. Once you start running on the edge with this piston they go very quick.

Now from a windage lose stand point in a built Forged motor I would block them off. Let the gas do its job like it has been doing for years.

I also think from a tuning standpoint you should pull and read every plug. Just because you are getting a good AFR reading doesn't mean every cylinder is happy. After the dyno pull take the plugs out. One degree of timing can case a failure.
 

Sky Render

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The forged piston has more bottom squirt and hits the piston oilers. They are used in the regular Coyote because hyper piston can't take the same amount of heat. Once you start running on the edge with this piston they go very quick.

Not quite.

The squirters were eliminated due to windage losses above 7,000 RPMs. The BOSS Roadrunner motor has a higher (7,500 RPM) redline, so the squirters were removed and the pistons replaced with forged ones instead.

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/m5lp_1108_2011_ford_mustang_302/short_block.html
 

Coyotetivct

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If you read my second sentence I point that out. And YES they do hit!!!
 

Nastystang06

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The reason I want to crank it on the stock tune is there is no local synonymous

And reading the plugs wont be a problem


Ans the tune I had was a lund 93 aggressive and yes I ran 93 lol

Never sprayed or even wired it up all the way
 

COYO TT

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My car was never sprayed it just started smoking one day and slowly got worse

Ah, I saw all the nitrous stuff for sale in the classifieds and figured you got too generous with the spray.

Theres a lot of vendors around here that sell rotating assemblies or shortblocks that will take what you can throw at it on stock compression. BBR has their Jackal and JPC has their RGR, both which I believe have been pushed to over 900whp.

Or, you can just pick up some boss rod and pistons.....
 

SteveP

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Shoot me a call. I can gladly help and give you some better options on what to do. And in the end if you go with someone else, it's understandable. We have built some serious new motors. We also have just recently built the highest horsepowered coyote motor in the country (dyno results from King of the Street. Videos' and info to come) but I'm more interested in helping you out sir!

561-417-5555
 
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Ivan 5.0

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my questions are who sells the best kit, or can put me a kit together for forged rods and pistons, and whats the most i can bore incase i have a scarred cylinder

and can someone educate me on the piston squirters and if i should e;liminate these

i want to keep the same compression as stock so i can crank this thing up on the stock tune and break it in for a few thousand miles

after that i will be buying a turbo, i see plenty of cars making over 600 with 11:1 so i dont see why i cant make plenty like that and with a turbo

and i may do a mild port and polish on the heads, but idk if that would work with the stock tune

Contact Rick @ Livernois; they build some pretty stout motors and def know their sh!t
 

Nastystang06

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Shoot me a call. I can gladly help and give you some better options on what to do. And in the end if you go with someone else, it's understandable. We have built some serious new motors. We also have just recently built the highest horsepowered coyote motor in the country (dyno results from King of the Street. Videos' and info to come) but I'm more interested in helping you out sir!

561-417-5555

I work 7-7 Days so calling is hard, anyway you could email me some options with prices?
 

rford426

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I would say soo...Better just get to looking at the High HP coyotes and see what there combos are and maybe send them a few ?'s you might have!@
 

Nastystang06

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Hell I may just build my own turbo kit, the hellion kit would be super easy to replicate except I could use the fuel system and turbo if my choice

I dunno if im crazy about there oil return though, it uses a scavenge pump and goes through the passenger valve cover lol

But on the other hand I love the simplicity of the procharger I just dunno if it will be as fast as a turbo
 

SteveP

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Hell I may just build my own turbo kit, the hellion kit would be super easy to replicate except I could use the fuel system and turbo if my choice

I dunno if im crazy about there oil return though, it uses a scavenge pump and goes through the passenger valve cover lol

But on the other hand I love the simplicity of the procharger I just dunno if it will be as fast as a turbo


no. it goes to the driver side valve cover. The kit is perfect in the design and works. Like I've stated, highest hp built using the basic hellion system for the 2011. just upgraded turbo
 

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