Let's Build A Killer Track Car!!!

[jayel579]

Well every killer track car needs a toter, you should add one of these to your list.

Something like this: http://www.racingjunk.com/Used-Trai...e-53-4-Car-Stacker-Trailer-with-lounge-.html#

 

[Department Of Boost]

Well every killer track car needs a toter, you should add one of these to your list.

Something like this: http://www.racingjunk.com/Used-Trai...e-53-4-Car-Stacker-Trailer-with-lounge-.html#

That's EXACTLY what I was thinking!!!

I'm thinking of something like this:

 

[DILYSI Dave]

I know.

It will be plenty fast. And the best part is it's paid for.

Cool. I get that. Just wanted to make sure you knew what you were up against.

 

[Sky Render]

Hellz yes!!!!![emoji14]epper:

That was actually one major thing pushing me toward it. I really hate roofs on track cars. It probably has something to do with all of my years racing motorcycles. I like being out in the open.

Plus it will be cooler in the cockpit.

Check with whatever tracks or organizations you want to run with. You*might* need a full cage instead of just a bolt-in one.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk

 

[Department Of Boost]

Check with whatever tracks or organizations you want to run with. You*might* need a full cage instead of just a bolt-in one.

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I know the two organizations I have run with all you out with a 4pt bar. I just looked at 4 more that I could locate real quick and they all had the same rules.

My guess is they want my money more than anything else. Capitalism FTW!!!

Here is what I have been wrestling with not getting for about a month now. I was "this close" to pulling the trigger. My Mom is really happy I'm in a car. Even if it has no roof.

 

[irishpwr46]

boss oil cooler for sale in this thread

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126579

 

[csamsh]

Just say no to the boss oil cooler

 

[Department Of Boost]

Just say no to the boss oil cooler

Yeah, those never looked right to me.

 

[CobraRed]

Setrab is the go to but pricey.

I'm going Earl's performance 82500, USA made and 72,500 BTU's it 72,500 BTU's.

 

[Speedboosted]

You lost me at convertible, but I'll add some advice/mirror what Terry said. A Vert is an incredibly poor platform...you say that you own the car and that is awesome, it really is. However, sell it and buy a coupe and just roll the windows down on track (required anyway right?). You can't run a watts link with the vert chassis braces, which of course will make the car even more swoopy when those come off.

You also mentioned that your '07 weighed too much...have you weighed this coyote compared to that car? I'd be they're very similar. The final thing I would like to add is that S197 (convertible) and killer track car don't go together.

If you're dead set on this car, which it seems like you are, drive your ass off and get seat time, and seat time, and seat time. To be "competitive", you have to find an edge elsewhere since the car will always be a bit short unfortunately.

 

[Norm Peterson]

For getting the most out of what's still going to be a fairly heavy car, why would you limit your wheel widths to 10.5"?

I doubt that convertible aerodynamics are as good (?) as the coupe's, so for whatever that's worth the demands for brake cooling should be slightly lower. At equal power levels, anyway . . . so maybe don't write off the idea of 4" brake ducts just yet.

I think he's got the seat time thing reasonably well covered. Recovering the "lost" chassis stiffness is going to be the bigger hurdle to clear, and with a stiffish suspension perhaps necessary just for durability for the "20% street" usage. OE convertibles tend to be suspended more softly than their coupe siblings for a reason.

I really can't see having much objection to building a fast-pig convertible unless you'd be bothered by having too hard of a time keeping up with a comparably built (and driven) fast-pig coupe.


Norm

 

[Department Of Boost]

Setrab is the go to but pricey.

Tell me about it.............. I need to knock some bucks out of this build.

I'm going Earl's performance 82500, USA made and 72,500 BTU's it 72,500 BTU's.

The Setrab I was looking at was quite a bit bigger than that (the ones on the race cars are HUGE!!!). The 82500 is 14x7.75". I just poked around on Summit and found a 14x13" (#84200ERL) for $336. About $90 more than the part number you had. But maybe worth it. From what I have gotten out of Rehagen and SVT there is no keeping them too cool. They like to shed some heat!!!

Thanks!

 

[ford20]

Did they say what the best way to shed the heat from them was?

 

[Sky Render]

If your goal is to be competitive in some sort of racing (time trials, W2W, etc.), get a coupe.

If you're just in it to have fun (like I usually am), screw it! Keep the 'vert.

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[Department Of Boost]

You lost me at convertible, but I'll add some advice/mirror what Terry said. A Vert is an incredibly poor platform...you say that you own the car and that is awesome, it really is. However, sell it and buy a coupe and just roll the windows down on track (required anyway right?).

I could. And I suppose it's an option. I'll have to look at what the swing in money would look like to do that.

You can't run a watts link with the vert chassis braces, which of course will make the car even more swoopy when those come off.

I can make different bracing (and probably more effective) to work with the Watts no problem. I have access to a full blown real deal chassis shop that does those stupid fast drag chassis.

You also mentioned that your '07 weighed too much...have you weighed this coyote compared to that car? I'd be they're very similar. The final thing I would like to add is that S197 (convertible) and killer track car don't go together.

My 07' had a 3.4L Whipple and I kid you not 75lb in additional IC components. Along with a ton of other heavy duty big HP components. Even the fuel system was heavy! LOL

If you're dead set on this car, which it seems like you are, drive your ass off and get seat time, and seat time, and seat time. To be "competitive", you have to find an edge elsewhere since the car will always be a bit short unfortunately.

So far 95% of track day guys can't keep up with me when I'm driving average on real deal daily driver compound street tires. Yeah, there will always be someone faster. But not many. 10yrs of racing superbikes infused me with a ton of skill, feel and confidence. I have a pretty big edge when it comes to experience. And if someone is a little faster I can always give them a hard time I was hanging in there with a convertible Mustang.

"Man, you're hauling ass in that Porsche GT3 with slicks man!!! That thing is sweeeet!"

"Yeah, I was the guy in the convertible Mustang street car on traded tires hassling you".

 

[Department Of Boost]

If your goal is to be competitive in some sort of racing (time trials, W2W, etc.), get a coupe.

If you're just in it to have fun (like I usually am), screw it! Keep the 'vert.

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Exactly. I won't do anything competitive in it. Those years are behind me. I just want to bomb around track days and have fun!

 

[Department Of Boost]

For getting the most out of what's still going to be a fairly heavy car, why would you limit your wheel widths to 10.5"?

11's and 315's are still an option.

I wanted to go with 10.5's and Nitto NT01's - 305's because my track buddy will be running the same combo. We were considering getting an extra set of wheels/tires (splitting the cost) so we always had spares at the track. Economics through commonality.

I doubt that convertible aerodynamics are as good (?) as the coupe's, so for whatever that's worth the demands for brake cooling should be slightly lower. At equal power levels, anyway . . . so maybe don't write off the idea of 4" brake ducts just yet.

I think he's got the seat time thing reasonably well covered. Recovering the "lost" chassis stiffness is going to be the bigger hurdle to clear, and with a stiffish suspension perhaps necessary just for durability for the "20% street" usage. OE convertibles tend to be suspended more softly than their coupe siblings for a reason.

Yeah, it will never be "as good". But I'm thinking I can do really quite well. At least as stiff as a coupe with no bar. Having access to the chassis shop gives me tons of options. I was looking at it last night and I can connect the down bars to the foot wells (maybe a double bar) and then to the fire wall. And then maybe stringers to the strut towers. Lots of options.

I really can't see having much objection to building a fast-pig convertible unless you'd be bothered by having too hard of a time keeping up with a comparably built (and driven) fast-pig coupe.


Norm

At the end of the day they would have to be out driving me. And if someone out drives me I have no issue following. They're better. Maybe I will learn something.

 

[ford20]

If you are going with the Cortex JRi's you can just get the offset mount strut and run 315 tires. I am assuming that you can also run 11" wide wheels but I'm sure that would depend greatly on wheel style and offset.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Did they say what the best way to shed the heat from them was?

The oil coolers?

 

[Department Of Boost]

If you are going with the Cortex JRi's you can just get the offset mount strut and run 315 tires. I am assuming that you can also run 11" wide wheels but I'm sure that would depend greatly on wheel style and offset.

I just PM'd Vorshlag for a price on Forgestar 18x11's. They'll fit.