Lubing Suspension and bolts?

Rapture

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I am currently working on chassis stiffening and suspension. I got some Superlube the other day. Is it ok to lube up all the bolts and nuts to keep the threads nice? I'm not talking about removing them all just to lube but when I add an aftermarket part. What else can I grease when I'm down there? Is Superlube ok to use a dab on all bolts I take out and put back in? Or is it better to just blow them off and keep them dry? OEM sway bar end links? I got it to put on my spring perch area since my bottom ISO is removed. I get the occasional squeak.
 

skaarlaj

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I'd say as sticky as that stuff is, I'd use it between any poly to metal, poly to poly, or pretty much anything that's not metal to metal. I'd stay away from nuts/bolts with it, but probably won't hurt it though, just attract alot of crap is all.
 

Rapture

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I'm pretty much doing only spherical rod ends where ever possible. Maybe there is a better lube for what I'm doing?

It seems like the BMR panhard threads I have was lubed with some graphite stuff? Is this true?

I know not to lube the bearing but im talking about the adjustable threads
 

Rapture

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I just had a seat bolt strip and I'm now paranoid about keeping my threads clean and perfect when putting in new suspension and chassis mods
 

46addict

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I'm pretty much doing only spherical rod ends where ever possible. Maybe there is a better lube for what I'm doing?

It seems like the BMR panhard threads I have was lubed with some graphite stuff? Is this true?

I know not to lube the bearing but im talking about the adjustable threads

BMR recommends a dry film lube for the spherical pieces. A molybdenum or graphite based dry lubricant should be just fine. I would probably use the same stuff for the threads.
 

Rapture

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BMR recommends a dry film lube for the spherical pieces. A molybdenum or graphite based dry lubricant should be just fine. I would probably use the same stuff for the threads.


Do you know if this is the same stuff that came on those threads from BMR
 

BMR Tech 2

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You need to be careful when you're applying lube to threaded fasteners. Torque values for fasteners are given on a clean, dry thread. If you apply a lubricant to a thread before torquing and you still torque to the listed spec, you will be over the torque value by a fairly significant amount. You can either damage or break fasteners or prevent a part from performing as it should.

I would not apply any sort of lube to suspension fasteners. Most of the time will have my customers clean the anti-seize off the threads of adjusters where the jam nut will be. With anti-seize on those threads loctite will not work, which can lead to loose jam nuts and clunky suspension.

Your mileage may vary.
 

Norm Peterson

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I wouldn't lube any threads where there is a torque spec unless the spec specifically calls for lube - in which case I would use the specified lube. Using lube where none is specified, or a different lube where something is, throws the relation between wrench torque and fastener clamping load off. It's bolt tension that clamps the parts together, torque is only an indirect measure of that tension.

As a side note, most bolted joints intend the friction developed from the bolt tension (or clamping load) to be what holds the parts in position. Not by the bolts in direct shear.


Norm
 

Rapture

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You need to be careful when you're applying lube to threaded fasteners. Torque values for fasteners are given on a clean, dry thread. If you apply a lubricant to a thread before torquing and you still torque to the listed spec, you will be over the torque value by a fairly significant amount. You can either damage or break fasteners or prevent a part from performing as it should.

I would not apply any sort of lube to suspension fasteners. Most of the time will have my customers clean the anti-seize off the threads of adjusters where the jam nut will be. With anti-seize on those threads loctite will not work, which can lead to loose jam nuts and clunky suspension.

Your mileage may vary.


Thanks for the info. I have been squirting wd40 on suspension fasteners. Is this bad too?

Also what was metallic looking stuff on the adjuster threads on the panhard bar?
 

Norm Peterson

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That metallic-looking stuff is almost certainly the anti-seize that Dylan advises people to clean off. I would probably use a solvent - something like acetone that evaporates rapidly - to help make sure that no traces of the stuff gets left in the threads.

I might squirt WD-40 on the bodies of bolts that pass through poly bushings, but I wouldn't use it on the threads.


Norm
 
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Rapture

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That metallic-looking stuff is almost certainly the anti-seize that Dylan advises people to clean off. I would probably use a solvent - something like acetone that evaporates rapidly - to help make sure that no traces of the stuff gets left in the threads.


Norm


Looks like I'll be doing my panhard install again after work tomorrow. Thanks Norm
 

Rapture

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I read that WD40 will take it off. Is it bad for the powder coating though. Not familiar with powder coating.

I'll do my old 2 step process. WD40 - Dawn rinse.
 

Rapture

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How hard should I be tightening these jam nuts? As hard as I can with adjustables? Is blue loctite a must have?
 

Norm Peterson

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I don't know of any specific torque for jam nuts, but it has to be tight enough such that the jam nut and whatever it's jammed up against can't rotate as a pair or for the jam nut to loosen. A drop of 'blue' - just a drop - might be a good idea.

I only used an adjustable wrench to tighten the jam nuts on LCAs and they've never loosened.


Norm
 

slackinoff

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How hard should I be tightening these jam nuts? As hard as I can with adjustables? Is blue loctite a must have?

You will know it if that jam nut ever comes loose. A pretty good rattle will develop. I had one jam nut come loose on my adjustable upper controll arm and it let me know. Couple drops of blue locktite fixed it so far.

Rm
 

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