Mastering the art of the S197 3 link suspension (sixty foot)

rodfarva

forum member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Posts
751
Reaction score
1
Location
Kentucky
Wow, I have to comment on this:
1) yes 4.10s will be better---that is what I run
2) Interesting your car weighs 3290 with two 16V batteries. Mine weighs 3240 with 1 battery. Our cars weigh virtually the same
3) Can't you leave higher (if the track allows?) I would try leaving @ 4000 if you can.
4) I have stock front struts, going to change to some strange units soon. Did the adjustable front shocks really make a significant difference?

Leaving higher doesn't seem to work. It doesn't flash the converter as hard and leaves easier. The converter might still need to be loosened up some.

As far as the front struts are concerned, I didn't race my car before switching out from stock. I'm gonna switch to a double adjustable coilover setup at some point.
 

BMR Tech

Traction Vendor
Official Vendor
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Posts
4,863
Reaction score
11
Location
Tampa, FL
Has anyone broke into the 7s with an S197 with 3-link suspension?

I believe stkjock is correct, Amanda Long went very fast on Radials.

I have to throw this out, as no one really knows this.

BMR Suspension was the first to go 8's in an S197 Chassis/3 Link Suspension.

8's on a radial, in October, 2005!!!!!!!

The car went an 8.0 before 2006 arrived.
 

Brezick

Yinzer
Joined
Jul 14, 2011
Posts
1,386
Reaction score
0
My best 60' so far is a 1.67

QA1 single adj. fronts w/ coilover kit - 4 clicks from full soft
QA1 single adj. rears - 4 clicks from full stiff
Eibach rear progressive rate springs
UPR LCA's, rod ends
UPR UCA, spherical bushings
UPR adj. pan hard bar w/ brace
PI 3200 stall TC
Detroit Tru Trac
FRPP 4.10 gears
Dynotech Driveshaft
Front swaybar removed
Nitto NT05R 275/40/17 tires

Leaving at 2800 on foot brake.

Thinking about switching to a new tire - the Nitto's work ok, but I feel like I have maxed them out and should be able to land a better 60' with what I have. Probably gonna try a 295/45/17 M/T ET SRII. Need the taller tire anyway as I have a 10lb pulley I wanna try.
 

KITT

Sell it!
Joined
Jul 16, 2009
Posts
719
Reaction score
0
Location
JC TN
I have an 08GT with a KB 2.6 making 529/447 I ran on 26x11.50x17 ET Streets. 100% stock suspension front to back with stock clutch and 4.10s stock 18s up front and car weight with driver is 3950lb with a 60lb speaker box in the trunk.

60ft is 1.59 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hz6iX3JCJhs

After looking at this thread Im wondering if I should do suspension. Only cars doing better than mine are auto cars, lightened cars or cars with more power. At some point it takes more power to better our 60ft. 500hp or 500tq will only so much no matter whats under the car. I feel suspension may net me some lower 1.5s. I see suspension helping the drag radial cars more so than the Bias Ply cars. Im building an engine this winter and should hit 700whp and 600wtq and was planning some suspension, thinking bout just waiting now! Has anyone done this well stock suspension and gained more power and tried it? Seems everyone does suspension as a first mod and never tests the ability of the stock stuff! Im open for advice from anybody!
 

Attachments

  • 11.45.jpg
    11.45.jpg
    394.3 KB · Views: 40

silverpoison

Senior Member
S197 Team Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2007
Posts
3,360
Reaction score
2
Location
SoCal
Same set-up, only difference was from 12.0 to 11.5 lbs on the slicks 1.38 '60
 

Blackblurr2007

forum member
Joined
Dec 10, 2010
Posts
180
Reaction score
0
Best to date (me) is 1.358 @ 3680lbs. Stock style supension. Whos asking about going in the 7's. 6's on a 3 link? They have on motor only. My best to date is 5.63@ 121.54 mph.
 

stkjock

---- Madmin ----
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
S197 Team Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Posts
40,271
Reaction score
3,187
Location
Long Island NY
Best to date (me) is 1.358 @ 3680lbs. Stock style supension. Whos asking about going in the 7's. 6's on a 3 link? They have on motor only. My best to date is 5.63@ 121.54 mph.

6s or 7s in the 1/4 not the 1/8th
 

stang67gt

wrench turner
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Posts
185
Reaction score
1
Location
Chicago
This weekend I had a 1.39 but usually in the 1.41-.43 range

- Roush shocks and struts
- Roush lowering springs
- Steeda poly LCA's on Steeda Relocation brackets 2nd to bottom hole
- Steeda poly UCA
- spool
- UMI adjustable heim joint panhard
- 8.8 with 3.55 and c-clip elims
- ET Drags 28.0x10.5-15 on Bogart D-10's @ 14psi
- TR6060 with Mcleod RST
- stock rear sway with BMR relocation brackets
- 2-step set at 5400
Car weighs 3760
 

Robertt305

forum member
Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Posts
98
Reaction score
0
Finally a 1.49 !

ad0bd716.jpg
 

Blackblurr2007

forum member
Joined
Dec 10, 2010
Posts
180
Reaction score
0
Just had antiroll put in, front and rear strange shocks. 4.10 gears, 28x10.5 slicks @ 11.5 psi 12 after drive back! 1.293 60ft best to date! 330ft 3.657.. Not bad for a turd! Want to get weight out and try new suspension, put spool and axles in it too! Hope for 1.27 or better when done!! =)
 

Morris

forum member
Joined
Jan 19, 2012
Posts
822
Reaction score
1
2012 manual with 3.73's

BMR upper and lower arms with relocation brackets (made a mistake and used the lower hole)

BMR adjustable pan hard bar

The rest of the suspension is stock but I was thinking of going with the tokico D specs with steeda ultra lights and steeda mounts.

Stock tires (P Zeros), psi ranged from 36 to 28.

The car is for the most part stock with the only other mods an axle back exhaust and Barton shifter.

I can't hook up at all. best 60' was 2.2x with a 13.2 at 108. I need help, seriously, I'm here because I'm looking for answers. Please PM me or offer some tips.

Yes, I know I need some driver mods but seriously I don't think a pro could have cut under a 2.0 the way the car was set up that day. It sucked because the air was not bad maybe 0 or a slight negative. I have put the arms in the top hole, but now I need some tire and suspension advice.

I would like to also auto x the car and it's my DD so I can't set it up for a hard core drag car but would like to make this thing hook up on street tires as well as have a dedicated set of rears for track days.

I would like to find a way into the 11's with DR's and 12.5's with street tires. That's the goal anyway. Is that realistic? What do I need to do?

I don't know if I should use a taller tire or not. If I go taller I will not need to shift to 5th. I suspect though I will need to go slightly smaller, right now I'm only at the bottom of 5th crossing the line. Maybe taller for street tires and smaller for the track?

I did read all 13 pages and honestly I'm baffled and amazed. Mostly I'm just like how the F are they cutting these times.

The other thing is what's the best way for a long burn out, drop the clutch and then move your clutch foot over for a little brake to keep it going? It's a non issue right now but if I get some DR's then I'm gonna have to change what I'm doing now.

Thanks for any info you might throw my way. I know this is more of a here is what I got on the car and what it did threat but I know there is a ton of exp. here so if you could throw me a clue that would be awesome. My last car was a g8 and would KILL this one in the 1/4, I need to turn that around fast!
 

GT.350-R

3PEDLS
Joined
Sep 4, 2010
Posts
1,371
Reaction score
1
Location
Portland IN.
2012 manual with 3.73's

BMR upper and lower arms with relocation brackets (made a mistake and used the lower hole)

BMR adjustable pan hard bar

The rest of the suspension is stock but I was thinking of going with the tokico D specs with steeda ultra lights and steeda mounts.

Stock tires (P Zeros), psi ranged from 36 to 28.

The car is for the most part stock with the only other mods an axle back exhaust and Barton shifter.

I can't hook up at all. best 60' was 2.2x with a 13.2 at 108. I need help, seriously, I'm here because I'm looking for answers. Please PM me or offer some tips.

Yes, I know I need some driver mods but seriously I don't think a pro could have cut under a 2.0 the way the car was set up that day. It sucked because the air was not bad maybe 0 or a slight negative. I have put the arms in the top hole, but now I need some tire and suspension advice.

I would like to also auto x the car and it's my DD so I can't set it up for a hard core drag car but would like to make this thing hook up on street tires as well as have a dedicated set of rears for track days.

I would like to find a way into the 11's with DR's and 12.5's with street tires. That's the goal anyway. Is that realistic? What do I need to do?

I don't know if I should use a taller tire or not. If I go taller I will not need to shift to 5th. I suspect though I will need to go slightly smaller, right now I'm only at the bottom of 5th crossing the line. Maybe taller for street tires and smaller for the track?

I did read all 13 pages and honestly I'm baffled and amazed. Mostly I'm just like how the F are they cutting these times.

The other thing is what's the best way for a long burn out, drop the clutch and then move your clutch foot over for a little brake to keep it going? It's a non issue right now but if I get some DR's then I'm gonna have to change what I'm doing now.

Thanks for any info you might throw my way. I know this is more of a here is what I got on the car and what it did threat but I know there is a ton of exp. here so if you could throw me a clue that would be awesome. My last car was a g8 and would KILL this one in the 1/4, I need to turn that around fast!
With a manual trans, you should be in the bottom hole of the relocation brackets. It plants the tires the hardest in the bottom.
I say with a little more seat time,you'll beat that G8.
 
Last edited:

Matt D

S197 Pilot
S197 Team Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2008
Posts
5,819
Reaction score
39
Location
Toronto,Canada
Just had antiroll put in, front and rear strange shocks. 4.10 gears, 28x10.5 slicks @ 11.5 psi 12 after drive back! 1.293 60ft best to date! 330ft 3.657.. Not bad for a turd! Want to get weight out and try new suspension, put spool and axles in it too! Hope for 1.27 or better when done!! =)


Dam that is serious. What was the Et on that pass?
 

Robertt305

forum member
Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Posts
98
Reaction score
0
Just had antiroll put in, front and rear strange shocks. 4.10 gears, 28x10.5 slicks @ 11.5 psi 12 after drive back! 1.293 60ft best to date! 330ft 3.657.. Not bad for a turd! Want to get weight out and try new suspension, put spool and axles in it too! Hope for 1.27 or better when done!! =)



I say video or ban!!!!
 

Morris

forum member
Joined
Jan 19, 2012
Posts
822
Reaction score
1
The car.rides and corners like crap with the arms in the bottom hole. It also seems to hook up much better in the top hole for some reason. I think springs and tires are in order, any other thoughts?
 

Godzirra

Asian Idiot
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Posts
923
Reaction score
0
Location
Bristol, TN
I have an 08GT with a KB 2.6 making 529/447 I ran on 26x11.50x17 ET Streets. 100% stock suspension front to back with stock clutch and 4.10s stock 18s up front and car weight with driver is 3950lb with a 60lb speaker box in the trunk.

60ft is 1.59 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hz6iX3JCJhs

Kitt pulled a 1.62 in my car and my best has been 1.69

Completely stock 2012 Brembo pack suspension with 26x11.50x17 ET Street and 3.73 gear.


2012 manual with 3.73's

BMR upper and lower arms with relocation brackets (made a mistake and used the lower hole)

BMR adjustable pan hard bar

The rest of the suspension is stock but I was thinking of going with the tokico D specs with steeda ultra lights and steeda mounts.

Stock tires (P Zeros), psi ranged from 36 to 28.

The car is for the most part stock with the only other mods an axle back exhaust and Barton shifter.

I can't hook up at all. best 60' was 2.2x with a 13.2 at 108. I need help, seriously, I'm here because I'm looking for answers. Please PM me or offer some tips.

Yes, I know I need some driver mods but seriously I don't think a pro could have cut under a 2.0 the way the car was set up that day. It sucked because the air was not bad maybe 0 or a slight negative. I have put the arms in the top hole, but now I need some tire and suspension advice.

I would like to also auto x the car and it's my DD so I can't set it up for a hard core drag car but would like to make this thing hook up on street tires as well as have a dedicated set of rears for track days.

I would like to find a way into the 11's with DR's and 12.5's with street tires. That's the goal anyway. Is that realistic? What do I need to do?

I don't know if I should use a taller tire or not. If I go taller I will not need to shift to 5th. I suspect though I will need to go slightly smaller, right now I'm only at the bottom of 5th crossing the line. Maybe taller for street tires and smaller for the track?

I did read all 13 pages and honestly I'm baffled and amazed. Mostly I'm just like how the F are they cutting these times.

The other thing is what's the best way for a long burn out, drop the clutch and then move your clutch foot over for a little brake to keep it going? It's a non issue right now but if I get some DR's then I'm gonna have to change what I'm doing now.

Thanks for any info you might throw my way. I know this is more of a here is what I got on the car and what it did threat but I know there is a ton of exp. here so if you could throw me a clue that would be awesome. My last car was a g8 and would KILL this one in the 1/4, I need to turn that around fast!

I have a brembo car as well with 3.73- My car runs like crap on the stock pirellis also. Best sixty i've put down on them was 1.9x and that was only once.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top