Official boss block build

[JPO8GT]

Rick @ Downs Ford Motorsport told me they were 40 thousandths after he called FRPP directly for me so i ordered mine directly from Cometic with 3.730 gasket bore and.040 thick. Rick may have been told wrong but they worked great.
.030s thick will be good too.
.030 will give you a lil touch more compression than a .040 thick gasket.
When you order them direct from Cometic they let you choose the thickness you want.

 

[BruceH]

Rick @ Downs Ford Motorsport told me they were 40 thousandths after he called FRPP directly for me so i ordered mine directly from Cometic with 3.730 gasket bore and.040 thick. Rick may have been told wrong I didn't measure they worked great.
.030s thick will be good too.
.030 will give you a lil touch more compression than a .040 thick gasket.
When you order them direct from Cometic they let you choose the thickness you want.

What did they cost?

 

[JPO8GT]

What did they cost?

$130's ea. But they custom make the gasket to your specs desired thickness from .027 - 50's or 60's thick and your desired bore diameter you have to call them directly to order because the Boss mod block gaskets are not just a shelf stocked gasket like standard 3v 4.6.

 

[Dillon Dollar]

Awesome I'll order a set ASAP.


Do Yall think it's necessary to use arp studs for the mains or do you think the factory Ford stuff will work

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[BruceH]

Awesome I'll order a set ASAP.


Do Yall think it's necessary to use arp studs for the mains or do you think the factory Ford stuff will work

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I've always used factory and never had an issue. If you use arp I'd suggest having the main line checked with the caps torqued down. The difference in torque application could change the main bore line enough to need a truing up hone.

 

[Dillon Dollar]

I feel like I read an article where someone made 1100 hp with the factory caps and hardware for a whole race season with no failure via a pro charger.

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[BruceH]

If you use the ones that came with the block you will need to figure something out for the windage tray because they don't have the provisions for it. My solution was to use the 2013+ GT500 tray, pan, and pickup. Works great and holds about 8 quarts of oil. I think it's lighter than the stock steel stuff too.

The package is about $170 from most FRPP dealers.

Part Details

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5.4L/5.8L 4V MODULAR HIGH CAPACITY OIL PAN
M-6675-MSVT*
Suggested Retail Price
$299.00

Sold in Units of:
Each (1)


tech notes

• Fits: 2007-2012 5.4L Shelby GT500
• Original equipment on 2013-2014 5.8L Mustang Shelby GT500
• Cast aluminum construction with 8.5 quart capacity
• Includes combination oil pan gasket, windage tray and scraper
• Includes pick-up tube and pan bolts.

specs

Package Dimensions:
10 x 30 x 12

Package Weight:
18.05 lbs

Part Type:
Engine: Oil Pumps/Pans

Instruction Sheet:
Not Available

Warranty Availability:
Not Available

Country of Origin:
United States

UPC Code:
756122228258

Catalog Page Number:
125

 

[Dillon Dollar]

That's exactly what I was wanting to do but the best price I've found is from American muscle for around 239.99

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[BruceH]

That's exactly what I was wanting to do but the best price I've found is from American muscle for around 239.99

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Send a pm to 19COBRA93. He is an frpp dealer. IIRC the price is $168 from him.

Your best bet when it comes to FRPP parts is to find a dealer you feel comfortable with. Tousley, Tasca, etc. They will always beat the middleman places in price. Sometimes it's by a lot.

 

[JPO8GT]

Ford TTY bolts are good. I used ARP main studs, side bolts & head bolts because my engine builder preferred them with the cast iron block but i haven't heard of a TTY bolt failure.

 

[Mike K]

Good to see those springs will actually be put to use. I'm subbed for this!

 

[Dillon Dollar]

Awesome I'll just stick with the tty bolts hopefully since this is a turbo application the crank will stay put with the standard caps


Yes sir those springs will be put to good use

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[Bobby]

You need arp stuff for the power you will be making.

 

[lethe]

You need arp stuff for the power you will be making.

x2. OP, aren't you shooting for 1000hp with this engine? Stock is pretty strong but i don't know if anyone has pushed them to 1k hp. I know i wouldn't risk it.

 

[Dillon Dollar]

Yeah 1000+ I'll talk to the builder again but for some reason he acted like with the boss block that the Ford stuff was good. But I've never heard of not using arp stuff. I do have arp side bolts just not the main studs

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[Bobby]

I did arp everything.

 

[lethe]

I did arp everything.

x2. I would rather over build than under build.

 

[Dillon Dollar]

Yeah I agree I wanted to add an extra bolt but he said the caps are stronger without the extra hole tapped. How are your caps setup bobby

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[JPO8GT]

I made 900 rear wheel with the main caps the way they came from factory 2 arp studs and 2 arp side bolts. I would trust the main caps to 1000+ rwhp.
But at that power i would use ARP like suggested above. I was running Stroker 3.800 crank with Manley H beams with Arp 2000 rod cap screws/bolts. 326 ci boss block Stroker. I know my builder told me he is more inclined to use TTY bolts on Aluminum blocks more so than Iron but preffered ARP for iron but I can't recall his reason.
Sutton racing also ran the boss block at 1240's rwhp for two seasons with the standard caps and arps iron boss modular block
I wouldn't modify the caps unless i had 2+k to throw at it and let RGR (JPC) do there billet cap conversion that's the only way to do it right.

 

[Dillon Dollar]

That makes me feel a lot better I'm using the eagle 3.750 crank and 5.950 eagle rods and custom gas ported pistons at 10.5 compression. My builder said the fact that I'm using turbo's that is would be a lot less stress on the motor mainly the crank.

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