FRANKENSTEIN boss 302

Steven Mike

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Hello all, new here but got big plans. I need some advise in addition to just sharing my build so here goes.

I've got a 2012 GT and from what I can tell its a repo car so having that in mind I am extremely nervous about what the car might have been put through prior to my purchase at 72k and putting 36k on it in a year. So now I am at 108k with a mystery tuned GT with an MT82 that is just waiting to grenade. Since this car is currently my daily and is 3 years from payoff with absoulutely no warranties might as well build a back up drivetrain.

Heres the plan.

Gen 3 block
Boss 302 crank
Wiesco Boostline or Manley H beams (probably the weiscos in prep for future FI)
I dont know what pistons yet (feel free to give input)
Gen 2 heads with MMR/Manley 32mm exhaust, 38mm intake SS valves and MMR springs.
Boss 302/Cobra Jet intake cams
Boss 302R exhaust cams
Not sure on the intake probably Boss 302 and eventually Cobra Jet.
47lb injectors for possible E85 down the road.
Eventually centrifugal supercharge with maybe 15 psi boost max.
back all that with a Calimer TR6060.

and thats about it. I'm going for basically a homegrown improved Boss 302 clone. I'm shooting for the ability to rev this motor out to 9k.

Any thoughts?
 

Juice

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108k on a coyote is nothing. Thats about where mine is now. Junkyard pull 75k miles. Been running it at HPDE events since I got it running. Put about 1500 track miles on it in between daily duty.

With Forscan, there is shitload of info in the pcm you can view under mode6. All my tolerances are zero. You maybe concerned over nothing as far as the engine. These engines were built to last.

As far as your tune, I can tell you it is very difficult to hurt one of these N/A coyotes with a tune. If there are No drivability issues, the tune is fine. (I tune my own)

So, here are my thoughts:

How old is the clutch?
Trans upgrade is a great plan.
What gears you got? Gear swap is pretty easy upgrade.
You have to do oil pump upgrade if you want to rev to 9k.

Any oil leaks? Does it use any oil?
 

Steven Mike

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So I have zero info on how old the clutch is if its even a stock clutch. For context I taught myself how to drive stick on this car with no assitance over the course of a 20 mile drive from the bank to my job. I'm guessing its 3.31s based off door sticker and MPGS and the way the car pulls. Yea i figured the oil pump would be in my future.

Weird thing is she wasnt using oil that much then earlier this week I had just finished a run from BR to NOLA then to Beaumont and back. When I stopped I noticed the smell of burning oil and checked the stick she was about a pint low while hot, she took another quart the following morning while cold to be full.

I'm running 5w30 rotella gas truck full syn with a wix WL10255XP which is a up sized filter from the 57502XP it takes normally. I do a 6k change interval and the oil is quite used looking.
 

Juice

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I actually had the left valve cover bolts back out on me, 3 of them. Smelled oil, had some drips.
Unkown clutch, personally, that would be a priority for me.

Oil viscosity can be a touchy subject, lol. I run 0w40 M1 and would run 5w50 if the 50 wasnt so expensive and usually not readily available. So I think 5w30 is a good idea. But I read somewhere not to run the rotella truck oil for some reason. Seem to think it was "bad for the cat converter".
 

Steven Mike

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I'm tempted to go rotella T6 5w40 due to its price, high viscosities, and just being an overall stout oil. I'm not worried about cats because they don't exist on my car.

And the clutch is on my list of things to do. just am not looking forward to putting money into the mt82 when I will be going with a TR6060 sooner than later.
 

race4food

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basically my same build!! Call DSS the pistons are forged, light and for $700 to the door you get pistons, pins and rings. I would also recommend the 18 manifold.
 

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