On ramps for winter, LT header gaskets, trans maintenance

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Thanks for all the details on the axlebacks you have experience with.

Im going to have to investigate the state of my axlebacks and see if the joint is still there .... I hope so.

I have the 2010 wich is right there being the oddball year between the 05-09 and the 11+ coyotes so im never sure when looking for parts which gen i fit in. I know drivetrainwise its the 05-9 but not sure suspension and exhaustwise whats interchangeable.... I say that to say i found the borla touring axlebacks for 05-09 but says wont fit my 2010. Are the ford versions any cheaper?

Ive also read a bunch of good things about the steeda branded borla axlebacks and that the baffling is different and lots of people saying they were the best sounding axlebacks for the the 3v 4.6 with offroad H.

Just a little confused with all the borla models and the rebrandings from other companies.
Ive read the mbrp's are basically identical to borla stingers, are they louder or sound different?, then the steeda borlas are said to be best 3v sounding muffler but from what ive gathered they are just rebranded stingers so should be same as the stingers and mbrp's?

The tourings and the steeda options are where im at right now. Just cant find the exact ford racing touring for the 2010. And if the steeda is the same as stingers and mbrp's then i could save money and just go with mbrp if they are similar.

I dont mind loud. My 07 is catless with flowmaster 40's and marauder 3.5" tips.
Its loud,deep,throaty and love it ... Just a bit too much drone. I could handle the loud if drone was notched back a bit. But maybe the tourings is the sweet spot. If anyone has a link for cheapest touring branding for a 2010 that would be great!

Sorry for the drawn out post. I just want to get it right first time.... Or at least be happy enough with it for a while.

Thanks again!

Just curious about your source concerning the Steeda branded axlebacks being manufactured by Borla? IIRC, I was under the impression that Magnaflow was the manufacturer for the Steeda branded axlebacks? From my understanding, the Ford Racing axle backs from 11-14 and current 15-18 S550 models are manufactured by Borla. Prior to 2011, Roush was the manufacturer for the Ford racing brand axle backs from 2005-10. At any rate, if the Borla Touring axle backs from 05-09 won't fit your 2010? The Ford Racing brands are cheaper, but keep in mind, they're constructed by the lower 409 quality grade SS. The Borla's on the other hand, are constructed by the higher grade polished 304 SS. However if 409 vs 304 grade SS isn't a factor? then you certainly won't be disappointed with the Ford Racing mufflers. You might also want to consider looking into Magnaflow street axle backs as a possible alternative as well. I ran the Magnaflow streets on my 06 GT along with the Magnaflow tru-X crossover and stock cats. I then made the switch to Borla S-type stingers and run a Mac O/R prochamber with the Borla S-types. Although I really like the deep louder growl from the Borla's, the interior resonance drone is horrible to say the very least. That being said, unless you intend on sticking with either the factory catted mid-pipe or add high-flow cats/resonators? I would not recommend running any type of stinger axle back with an offroad H or X IMHO

 

[deezdrama]

Im pretty sure i read that the steedas were rebranded borlas with a difference in internal batting material in this thread...
https://mustangforums.com/forum/gt-...8-the-official-s197-exhaust-sound-thread.html

Or it was a similar s197 exhaust thread.
I dont know what exactly steeda had done different with there axlebacks but several members swore the 4.6 3v, longtubes,OR H, and the steeda axle backs were one of the best sounding 4.6 exhaust setups and from the couple clips i listened to it sounded mean.
Drone is supposed to be minimal but who knows. Cant really tell from video clips.

All i do know is the more i research the more indecisive i am lmao

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Im pretty sure i read that the steedas were rebranded borlas with a difference in internal batting material in this thread...
https://mustangforums.com/forum/gt-...8-the-official-s197-exhaust-sound-thread.html

Or it was a similar s197 exhaust thread.
I dont know what exactly steeda had done different with there axlebacks but several members swore the 4.6 3v, longtubes,OR H, and the steeda axle backs were one of the best sounding 4.6 exhaust setups and from the couple clips i listened to it sounded mean.
Drone is supposed to be minimal but who knows. Cant really tell from video clips.

All i do know is the more i research the more indecisive i am lmao

After reading over the thread link you posted from mustangforums, I can tell you the Ford racing GTA mufflers were never manufactured by Borla nor where any of the other Ford racing brand mufflers prior to 2011-14. The FRPP GTA mufflers were manufactured by an exhaust company known as Supreme Performance. Following they're demise, the GTA's went out of production altogether. I also found out from a senior tech rep from Borla prior to purchasing my S-type stingers from them, that Borla has never constructed any of their exhaust component materials from anything other than 304 grade, aircraft stainless steel. I then inquired about the rumors I heard that Borla had manufactured the 2005-09 Mustang exhaust systems for Ford Racing? well once again, Borla flat out denied this for the same reason as previously stated above. Needless to say, prior to 2011-14, all Ford Racing exhaust kits were constructed from 409 grade SS rather than from 304 grade SS which Borla uses exclusively. Just as mentioned in a previous post, this leads me once again to the conclusion that Roush more than likely was the manufacturer for the 2005-09 Ford Racing performance parts exhaust systems, but this is just a guess on my part, so who really knows for certain? However, it would seem to make sense that Borla could very well be the manufacturer for the Steeda/Mustang exhaust systems, although I tend to lean more towards Bassani which is more similar to their polished 304 grade SS design. Anyhow when it comes to choosing an axle back or cat back exhaust, I don't rely on video or sound clips, as you can't really tell from a video clip when compared to being up close and personal IMHO.

 

[ghunt81]

I then inquired about the rumors I heard that Borla had manufactured the 2005-09 Mustang exhaust systems for Ford Racing? well once again, Borla flat out denied this for the same reason as previously stated above. Needless to say, prior to 2011-14, all Ford Racing exhaust kits were constructed from 409 grade SS rather than from 304 grade SS which Borla uses exclusively. Just as mentioned in a previous post, this leads me once again to the conclusion that Roush more than likely was the manufacturer for the 2005-09 Ford Racing performance parts exhaust systems, but this is just a guess on my part, so who really knows for certain?

Not necessarily true. I don't know how long it was made, or if it was made for anything other than the 2010, but my axle back looks exactly like this except with the Ford Racing logo stamped in the case:

https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...uring-axle-back-exhaust.html?ref=brand:100871

And it is most definitely 304 stainless as I bought it used and have run it for a couple years, and have not seen a speck of rust on it.

All i do know is the more i research the more indecisive i am lmao

Yeah that tends to be the problem. That's why I have 4 extra axle backs sitting in my garage...

 

[Screamin_dutch]

Corsa sports will end the debate, great sound and ZERO drone. My stock 05GT mufflers had more drone than these. Im installing longtubes and high flow cats next week and we'll see if its still quiet inside

 

[ghunt81]

I'm sure Corsas are great but they're pricey, and IMO they tend to be really loud and tinny sounding. I know they take out most of the bass which is what gets rid of the drone, but it just doesn't sound right.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Not necessarily true. I don't know how long it was made, or if it was made for anything other than the 2010, but my axle back looks exactly like this except with the Ford Racing logo stamped in the case:

https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...uring-axle-back-exhaust.html?ref=brand:100871

And it is most definitely 304 stainless as I bought it used and have run it for a couple years, and have not seen a speck of rust on it.



Yeah that tends to be the problem. That's why I have 4 extra axle backs sitting in my garage...

Yes, now that you mention it, I do recall back in the day where Borla did manufacture the touring 11752 axle back for Ford Racing Parts. I just can't remember what the Ford Racing Parts number was for the re-branded Borla 11752. But for whatever reason, they weren't in production for very long and were discontinued under the Ford Racing brand.

 

[deezdrama]

Getting close to starting this party but have a few questions...
To wrap or not to wrap? I wanted to to keep the heat from the engine compartment but from all the reading ive done on wrapping ive seen most major header manufacturers recommend not to and others have said it could hold moisture and cause premature breakdown of the metal so i think ill pass unless you guys think i really should.

Should I be getting locking header bolts? Do I use locktite or anti-sieze? I dont want to have loosening bolts or exhaust leaks down the road.
Headers came with bolts... Do I use those or buy grade 8's or buy GREAT 8 locking bolts?

I got oem ford gaskets yesterday and they seem thinner and less rigid than the ones that came with the headers. They are thin black fiberous material on both sides with a very thin metal core.... Are these indeed oem gaskets and what I should use? I ask because I ordered from ebay so want to make sure they are legit.

Will I need O2 wire extenders? Or do i just not install the downstream O2's since the tune will negate them anyway?

My H midpipe looks like its missing a clamp and also came with a plate that I dont know what its for. Do the 2 halfs need clamped or welded right where the "H" meets?

Sorry for the million questions. Just want to make sure I install these right.

Oh.... My axlebacks were not welded in... A muff delete pipe set was installed so im good to go there with whatever axleback i decide to get... If i ever decide lol






Heres the quoted info about the steeda axlebacks I mentioned about being in the other thread...



"Steeda has one axle back system, produced by Borla, however not the same as any of the models sold under the Borla or FRPP guises. This one is more similar to the Stinger, but has less packing material for a more Metallic sound. Goes EXTREMELY well with an offroad H pipe, works decently with an offroad x pipe, and would probably work well with a prochamber as well. I have heard this combination (with the offroad h pipe) personally many times, and I think it is easily one of the best sounding exhausts out there, bar none. GURU RECCOMENDED. There is some drone with just the axle backs, but it is VERY mild and VERY tolerable. With the offroad h pipe, the drone disappears for the most part, but the car becomes very loud, especially upon startup."

Steeda Axlebacks with stock midpipe:

Shifting:

Steeda Axlebacks with offroad h pipe:

Shifting:

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Getting close to starting this party but have a few questions...
To wrap or not to wrap? I wanted to to keep the heat from the engine compartment but from all the reading ive done on wrapping ive seen most major header manufacturers recommend not to and others have said it could hold moisture and cause premature breakdown of the metal so i think ill pass unless you guys think i really should.

Should I be getting locking header bolts? Do I use locktite or anti-sieze? I dont want to have loosening bolts or exhaust leaks down the road.
Headers came with bolts... Do I use those or buy grade 8's or buy GREAT 8 locking bolts?

I got oem ford gaskets yesterday and they seem thinner and less rigid than the ones that came with the headers. They are thin black fiberous material on both sides with a very thin metal core.... Are these indeed oem gaskets and what I should use? I ask because I ordered from ebay so want to make sure they are legit.

Will I need O2 wire extenders? Or do i just not install the downstream O2's since the tune will negate them anyway?

My H midpipe looks like its missing a clamp and also came with a plate that I dont know what its for. Do the 2 halfs need clamped or welded right where the "H" meets?

Sorry for the million questions. Just want to make sure I install these right.

Oh.... My axlebacks were not welded in... A muff delete pipe set was installed so im good to go there with whatever axleback i decide to get... If i ever decide lol

View attachment 68679 View attachment 68680

View attachment 68681


Heres the quoted info about the steeda axlebacks I mentioned about being in the other thread...



"Steeda has one axle back system, produced by Borla, however not the same as any of the models sold under the Borla or FRPP guises. This one is more similar to the Stinger, but has less packing material for a more Metallic sound. Goes EXTREMELY well with an offroad H pipe, works decently with an offroad x pipe, and would probably work well with a prochamber as well. I have heard this combination (with the offroad h pipe) personally many times, and I think it is easily one of the best sounding exhausts out there, bar none. GURU RECCOMENDED. There is some drone with just the axle backs, but it is VERY mild and VERY tolerable. With the offroad h pipe, the drone disappears for the most part, but the car becomes very loud, especially upon startup."

Steeda Axlebacks with stock midpipe:

Shifting:

Steeda Axlebacks with offroad h pipe:

Shifting:

The Borla S-type axle back is also referred to as the stinger. Borla just doesn't refer to it by that name. The name S-type is short for Sport. Therefore the Steeda axle back for which you claim is produced by Borla? would also be the same as Borla S-type, part #11750.

 

[deezdrama]

im not claiming it is.... Ive just read it on several threads. Yes, they say its the same but with different internal packing.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

The videos you posted were Steeda axle backs for a 2008 Mustang GT. According to Steeda's website, the Steeda brand axle back is listed for 2010 models only. I do however notice the resemblance between the Borla S-type #11750 and the Steeda brand axle back for 2010 models. Therefore if Borla did produce the stinger axle back for Steeda under its brand for 2005-09 models? it would appear for whatever reason that Borla also discontinued their production just as they had for the FRPP rebrands for 2005-09 models. At any rate, the mystery continues lol.

 

[ghunt81]

Ok, to answer your many questions...

1. Wrap isn't necessary. I don't know how it behaves on stainless steel but I have heard that on mild steel, just the way it changes the way the metal cools down causes the steel to actually break down in some manner.

2. Locking header bolts, that is your choice. First time I put my headers in I used plain, flanged head grade 10.1 bolts and just made them as tight as I could. When I took them out I had already ordered Stage 8 locking bolts, but found out only 2 of the bolts on the car were even anywhere close to loose. I used the Stage 8's...they aren't too bad to install but if you ever have to remove them, it's a pain in the freaking ass to get the clips off and you will probably lose some of them. Last go-round (replaced regular JBA's with 304 SS JBA's) I used the locking bolts on the bottom header bolts, and regular bolts on the tops. The bottom bolts can't be accessed to retighten after the headers are installed but the top ones can, so that was my way of thinking. You're probably fine with regular bolts as long as you get them good and tight.

3. If those are the Ford gaskets at the top in that pic you posted, then that is correct. Most of these newer gaskets are what they call multi-layer steel meaning they have a couple layers of very thin steel and a couple layers of a paper-like material. They should be fine.

4. You need O2 extenders for the front, and rear too if you install them. You can install the rears if you like, or just get some O2 bung plugs off ebay which is wa easier.

5. The H pipe does need to be clamped at the H. It looks like they sent you a U-bolt clamp, and the other thing is a strap clamp but did they only send one? Personally, I recommend an Accuseal (http://www.dynomax.com/2-5-accuseal-clamp-36438.html) for that joint because you can adjust/disassemble it later, which you usually can't do with a U-bolt clamp.

Is the strap clamp flat or does it have a ridge in it? It's one of these kinds here:
https://www.google.com/search?q=exh...uJ_fAhVsvlkKHS4-BVQQ_AUIDygC&biw=1098&bih=513

 

[deezdrama]

Got her on ramps but will have to wait a bit to get started.... I fell sick as f####. Dont mind the dirty ass car... Hasnt been washed in months lol

So the h-pipe just came with the single u-bolt clamp and the single band clamp. Not sure which is supposed to be used for the H union and which style for the downpipes.
i just ordered 4 of the accuseal clamps

I plan to just use bolts for headers. Are supplied bolts good enough? And just get them as tight as i can?

 

[ghunt81]

What kind of bolts did the Pypes come with? Are they the flanged-head header bolts?

Also, you might not want the Accuseal style clamps anywhere except the H crossover. They seal best on a pipe with relief cuts in it. For the headers-H pipe you want lap joint band clamps, and for the H pipe to over axle you want butt joint band clamps (if you don't still have your factory ones, mine were a rusty mess)

 

[deezdrama]

They are flanged bolts, not sure what grade... Cant remember if they were marked or not and am at work.
Damnit... I ordered 4 of the accuseals lol. I seen those lap joint clamps and almost ordered 2 but in my mind i didnt see what the half of the clamp did that was on the smaller diameter side other than keep the whole thing from sliding off but as long as the clamp is tight enough that shouldnt be a problem. I may order some or might just buy a roll of stainless wire and weld it all once its in and fitted

 

[ghunt81]

I wouldn't weld it together, what if you need to disassemble it somewhere down the road?

The butt joint clamps can be had pretty cheap. Look up Walker 33240 for the 2.5 butt joint where the H pipe connects to the over axle pipes. They're $8 each on RockAuto. These are walker Mega Clamps, they work pretty well. Can also try Torctites, they are a little more but generally seal better. Search "torctite 2.5 butt joint lap band clamp stainless" and you can find those. Only need 2 of these clamps.

Sorry, I may have thrown you off a bit- I keep forgetting you have Pypes and they are flanged. You might need 3 of those 4 clamps anyway, don't the short legs that connect to the headers also attach to the H pipe? If so you can use the accuseal clamps there.

But, you will definitely need butt joint clamps at the end of the H pipe...if you've never had it apart, you probably have the stockers and on mine, they were really hard to remove and definitely not reusable (very rusty).

 

[Pentalab]

I used JBA titanium ceramic coated 409 SS LT's, and JBA catted H on my 2010 GT. Mufflers are FRPP FRS-500's.... the 2010 version. 2010 version uses tips that are 1" longer than the '05-09 version. On a side note the FRS-500's are 409 SS, painted black, but the tips are made from 304 SS. 304 SS tips still look like brand new, years after the install.

Eng bay heat dropped a measured 40 deg F after the above install, using a fluke 62 IR. Part of the reason is the ceramic coating on both inside and outside of the LT's. Part of the reason is the new cats are below the seats...instead of at the base of the eng bay. The oem upper grille was replaced with the 7 bar grille, which reduced eng bay temps a bit more.

JBA install notes said to replace the oem eng mounts with steeda brand mounts.... which I did...which also gives you the option of stock eng ride height, or lowering the eng by 1/4" - 1/2" - 3/4". I used the 1/4" eng height lowering option. Steering shaft easily clears the primaries on driver's side. CG is reduced by a bit, and small M90 blower clears the steeda STB. STB no longer touches the roush CAI tube. Also noted was the oem heat shields for the eng mounts are re-used with any brand of aftermarket eng mounts.

I looked at LT's without the ceramic coatings, and also adding the heat insulating wrap, then decided to kill 2 birds with one stone.... opting for the ceramic coated LT's. At the time, JBA did not offer LT's, and the mid section in 304 SS, only 409 SS. 304 SS, ceramic coated, would be the ultimate solution.

All went in fine, but the drone drove me nuts...+ way too loud. The FRPP FRS-500 mufflers were previously installed well before the LT install.... and no drone with oem exhaust manifold / oem cats. The fix for the drone ( 1900 rpm) was to weld in a pair of pypes M80's..which are just resonators.... installed just before the rear axle, to get max ground clearance...( flanges on M80's, made for clamps, were cut off in the band saw). Drone problem solved. Pypes M80's were cheap at the time from AM ($44.00 each)..and made from 304 SS. They still shine, zero rust.

 

[ghunt81]

To my knowledge JBA only makes the ceramic coated headers in 409 SS. The 304 SS ones are polished. They sure are pretty though!

BTW I kept my factory motor mounts and shimmed them up 1/4", never had any problems whatsoever with clearance.

 

[deezdrama]

Well.... I might have to pass on headers for a while and just order a fullsize midpipe. I dont think the driver side header is going to be anywhere near close to clearing the steering shaft.
I remember seeing a thread someone did where they ran pypes clones (which is what these are) and they had steering shaft clearance issues. They posted pics of the measurement between the flange and inside of the primary pipe near the steering shaft and on his header that had clearance issues he had about 1.6" ... I have 1.75" gap on mine and just think its going to be too much of an interference to be able to clear with motor mounts, shifting motor over, and/or dinging the tube.

I was prepared to have some slight issues but this may just be too much idk. I have a shop press i could oval the tube out some but then would have to worry about it cracking later. I just dont want to go through the trouble installing these to find out the primary tube on the driver side header is off too far to work.
I knew it was a dice roll buying these headers so i struck out i guess. Thought about ordering another set and maybe getting a better one or if not could get a tig setup (which been on my list anyway) and could cut out the primary on one and do some tube reworking.

You can see in the pic how far the primary angles out instead of hugging the flange closer to being parallel. Maybe i should just avoid this can of worms right now and just do h pipe and later on buy a better set.

 

[ghunt81]

Well, that's why I bought real JBA's. Sometimes those knockoffs are hit or miss. I have some pics on my work computer that I took when I installed my JBA's, you can look at those and see how it looked. Sometimes it doesn't look like stuff will clear until they're actually on the car, but yeah- it would suck to get elbow deep in it and find out they don't fit. I'll post those in the morning.