On ramps for winter, LT header gaskets, trans maintenance

[deezdrama]

I appreciate that ghunt!

Heres some comparison pics from the thread i dug up about these headers...

He didnt run that header with 1.6" .... Mines 1.75" with calipers on it

 

[ghunt81]

Here's a few pics.

Looking at these...you may be right, I think that one primary tube will give you trouble.

 

[Pentalab]

On my JBA ceramic coated LT's.... that offending primary easily clears the steering shaft, and that's with the eng lowered 1/4".... via the steeda eng mounts. With the Pypes version..and eng at stock ride height, he may well have an issue. I believe others have had to .."massage" the offending primary..to gain clearance. Even then, you would want stiffer eng mounts. With oem hydra mounts, the eng will be rocking back and forth a bit.... just enough to smack the steering shaft. But this is on my 2010 GT, so a 05-09 car could easily be a different ballgame, even though both are the same 4.6 L .

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Im pretty sure i read that the steedas were rebranded borlas with a difference in internal batting material in this thread...
https://mustangforums.com/forum/gt-...8-the-official-s197-exhaust-sound-thread.html

Or it was a similar s197 exhaust thread.
I dont know what exactly steeda had done different with there axlebacks but several members swore the 4.6 3v, longtubes,OR H, and the steeda axle backs were one of the best sounding 4.6 exhaust setups and from the couple clips i listened to it sounded mean.
Drone is supposed to be minimal but who knows. Cant really tell from video clips.

All i do know is the more i research the more indecisive i am lmao

Upon further research, it appears the info you acquired from Mustang Forums regarding the Steeda Stingers for the 2010 Mustang is, in fact, a rebranded Borla with different internal baffling. What I don't quite understand, however, is the reason they're only produced for the 2010 models and not for the 2005-09 cars? Doesn't make much sense IMO, but it is, what it is lol. Anyhow you may want to check with Steeda tech support prior to making a purchase just to make certain as to whether or not you may experience more than just minimal drone by running an off-road exhaust application. IIRC, the Stinger axle backs are designed and engineered to be run with the factory catted H in place in regards to the minimal drone factor that Steeda claims on their website. Otherwise, it may be in your best interest to look into the Borla touring axle back as your best option for minimizing drone when running an off-road/LT header application

Not necessarily true. I don't know how long it was made, or if it was made for anything other than the 2010, but my axle back looks exactly like this except with the Ford Racing logo stamped in the case:

https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...uring-axle-back-exhaust.html?ref=brand:100871

And it is most definitely 304 stainless as I bought it used and have run it for a couple years, and have not seen a speck of rust on it.

Just to follow up, I finally came across the old Ford Racing part # for the rebranded Borla 11752- 2005-09 mustang gt/gt500 touring axle back exhaust that used to be produced for Ford Racing by Borla. The Ford Racing part # was M-5230-SVT1. I've also included images along with the part number.

 

[ghunt81]

So, that's weird. The set I bought did not have the logo-embossed tips and had double wall tips instead of rolled edge, had the hangers attached differently, logos were flipped, and the mufflers were offset/offset instead of offset/center. Again when I bought these the seller said they came off a 2010 but I wonder why so different?

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

So, that's weird. The set I bought did not have the logo-embossed tips and had double wall tips instead of rolled edge, had the hangers attached differently, logos were flipped, and the mufflers were offset/offset instead of offset/center. Again when I bought these the seller said they came off a 2010 but I wonder why so different?

View attachment 68731

After more digging around, I located your Ford Racing touring axle backs. Summit Racing used to sell them back in the day. Part number M-5230-MSVTC was manufactured exclusively for 2010 Shelby GT500 models for Ford Racing by Borla. Part number M-5230-MGTC was manufactured exclusively for 2010 GT models for Ford Racing by Borla. Therefore the seller who said they came off a 2010 was actually spot on. As for the reason behind the double wall tips instead of rolled edges which Borla is well known for? I suppose will never know the answer lol. I also have no clue as to why they did not include logo-embossed tips either, but it is, what it is. All I can say is that your Ford Racing Touring mufflers are authentic 2010 GT/GT500 rebranded Borlas. Also included are the Summit Racing and e-bay links with images. Anyway, hope you'll find the info provided as useful.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-5230-mgtc
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-5230-msvtc
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Racin...041?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

 

[deezdrama]

Wish i had the dough right now to grab those up for my 2010..... So the ford gt500s/tourings are nolonger made?
Im going to go with either the tourings or the steeda branded stingers for the 2010.
With longtubes and catless H which do you guys think would sound better? Ive narrowed it down to those two. I like deep controlled bass loud. I dont mind a little drone just not a ton.


Anyway.... Ive decided to go ahead and proceed and see how bad the steering shaft interferes with these headers. If its not possible to make them work then I will order some actual pypes headers. I thought about jba ceramic but then would need new midpipe too.

I got battery tray, steering shaft, starter out and all exhaust manifold nuts/studs off, all exhaust nuts off from midpipe forward.
The stock midpipes loose but i cant budge the band clamps that secure the back of the H pipe.
Ive tried to pry on the clamps and tried to beat on them with a hammer lightly... Any pointers to get this midpipe freed?

 

[07gts197]

Spray the studs down with pb blaster or similar and tap them with a hammer. You could even try tapping the clamps from the sides to push it back or forward (as opposed to pushing it up/spinning them to free them) with emphasis on tapping.

 

[deezdrama]

This has been the worst roadblock of this whole project. These damn band clamps wont budge.
Nuts came off no problem but they might as well be welded on there with magic unicorn mig wire.

I soaked em last night with pb blaster. Hit em with torch, resoaked, pried on em, beat on em all morning...... Nothing. Bolts wont hammer out, clamp wont pry open, wont slide back...nothing.

Might have to get the grinder with cutoff out. I just dont want to mar up the catbacks cause i plan to reuse them for now. Ford should of really went with stainless.... Hell my crown vics are factory stainless.

I noticed my stock midpipe has no hangers.... Whats up with that?




EDIT........
A last ditch beatdown prevailed lol... Why do i always see peoples stock mids having hangers and this dont?

 

[Onelildude]

I noticed my stock midpipe has no hangers.... Whats up with that?
View attachment 68741

View attachment 68742

Mine don't either, but they stay where they're supposed to

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Wish i had the dough right now to grab those up for my 2010..... So the ford gt500s/tourings are nolonger made?
Im going to go with either the tourings or the steeda branded stingers for the 2010.
With longtubes and catless H which do you guys think would sound better? Ive narrowed it down to those two. I like deep controlled bass loud. I dont mind a little drone just not a ton

The 2010 Ford Racing gt/gt500 tourings went out of production well over 5 years ago, perhaps even longer. At any rate, If you can afford the cash for them listed on e-bay? I'd snag them up before they're gone. Otherwise, go with the Steeda Stingers for $479.95. As mentioned in a previous post, if you're concerned about the drone factor by running an off-road/LT header application? I would go with the 2010 Ford Racing Touring axle back listed on e-bay for $499.99 which are just $20 more over the Steeda Stingers. Anyhow, I went ahead and re-posted the e-bay link for the 2010 Ford Racing Touring axle backs which are currently still available.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Racing-M-5230-MGTC-Mustang-GT-Touring-Muffler-Kit/153012771041?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20180105095853&meid=028c229db6ad4cf3bfae3fb13648b84e&pid=100903&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=153012771041&itm=153012771041&_trksid=p2509164.c100903.m5276

 

[deezdrama]

Yeah like i mentioned earlier, id jump all over those but broke and didnt give us any bonus at work so have to wait a few weeks...

Was on my way to test fit the driver side header and see if steering shaft had clearance but hit another roadblock.
The stupid a-- dipstick tube that magically jumps right out in every video ive watched has a deathgrip and will not budge. Yes the bracket bolt for the tube is removed lol. Ive pulled as hard as i can, sprayed with pb blaster, even tried to twist with vice grips and tap out with hammer against the vicegrips. Wont budge and scared to ruin the dipstick tube. Is there some trick to these?

 

[deezdrama]

Un-Fu*****believeable... Broke the dipstick tube off right at the block. That son of a b would not budge. Im not a small guy and pulled as hard as i could ..... Wouldnt budge. Was able to get tip of small screwdriver under the lip....then bigger screwdriver... Then prybar ... Then it sheered right off. Smfh

 

[deezdrama]

I went ahead and pressed forward to dryfit the driverside header to see if steering shaft would clear. Not even close! That primary interferes about a whole inch too much and lowering engine looks like it wouldnt help and maybe make it worse.
Wow the header bolts on bottom are about impossible to get to.

So.... Tomorrow going to have to pull driver motor mount and pull header and throw them things in trash or hang em on wall.
I dont know how the hell im going to get the broke piece of dipstick tube out without screwing that bore up.

In hindsight i wish i would of went with just a catless H pipe..... Stock manifolds dont even look that restrictive once i had em off looking at them.
But.....
Im the type where i cant let sh** get the better of me so will be ordering some actual pypes headers in a few weeks. I hope the fitment on them are way better than the ebay specials.

Any ideas about the dipstick piece that broke? All i can think is to fold and colapse it in on itself and try to pry it out but dont know how that will work when it didnt want to come out at all with 2 feet of tube on it before. I just dont want to screw it up and dont want to have to drop the pan.

 

[ghunt81]

After more digging around, I located your Ford Racing touring axle backs. Summit Racing used to sell them back in the day. Part number M-5230-MSVTC was manufactured exclusively for 2010 Shelby GT500 models for Ford Racing by Borla. Part number M-5230-MGTC was manufactured exclusively for 2010 GT models for Ford Racing by Borla. Therefore the seller who said they came off a 2010 was actually spot on. As for the reason behind the double wall tips instead of rolled edges which Borla is well known for? I suppose will never know the answer lol. I also have no clue as to why they did not include logo-embossed tips either, but it is, what it is. All I can say is that your Ford Racing Touring mufflers are authentic 2010 GT/GT500 rebranded Borlas. Also included are the Summit Racing and e-bay links with images. Anyway, hope you'll find the info provided as useful.

Thanks for doing that research! I looked all over the place after buying mine but could not find the exact model anywhere. So, interesting to know it was made for the GT500.

Un-Fu*****believeable... Broke the dipstick tube off right at the block. That son of a b would not budge. Im not a small guy and pulled as hard as i could ..... Wouldnt budge. Was able to get tip of small screwdriver under the lip....then bigger screwdriver... Then prybar ... Then it sheered right off. Smfh

OK, my dipstick stuck bad too. I destroyed it trying to remove it but fortunately mine did not break off. Had to pull it out with vise grips.

The problem is the o-ring on the dipstick, it becomes hard as a rock after however many years in there and gets stuck. If you can collapse it in a little, that should give the o-ring enough play to actually get it out. Then you'll have to either go online or go to a Ford dealership and order a new dipstick tube. It's not too expensive either.

Also, do you have a set of gear wrenches? Those, along with their adapters that let you attach sockets, are your best friends on this install. Flex head gear wrenches are even better. I used those on most of the bolts on mine.

Sorry to hear about your steering shaft issues though!

 

[deezdrama]

No biggie on the steering shaft issue... I kind of expected these headers to not work out. They were dirt cheap and now i know why. They will hang on my wall and be garage art.

I just hope the pypes longtubes fit better.

I did use a 13mm ratcheting wrench up top down below had to use a ratchet but will have to pickup a 13mm flexhead wrench definatelly.

Yeah... I just hope i can get the dipstick tube piece out and not make a bunch of shavings or push it in the pan. I wonder if the hole in the block is tapered which would prevent it from being shoved down in the pan. I thought about heating it with the torch and trying to thread in a bolt to try and extract it.
Or use a long skinny bolt and stick it in and try to catch the edge of the tube with the bolt head and pull it out. That damn thing wouldnt budge though so know its going to be a b****.

I hit the bottom of the tube with the torch for maybe 10sec to try and soften the o-ring... I wish i would of heated the crap out of it and burnt it out but i guess that could end up in the oil pump.

I should of just stuck my dent puller slide on the tube and clamped the crap out of the top of the tube and banged it out. Oh well cant change things now. Just hope i dont screw it up any more.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Thanks for doing that research! I looked all over the place after buying mine but could not find the exact model anywhere. So, interesting to know it was made for the GT500.

Just to make certain we're both on the same page, your Ford Racing mufflers could be either part number M-5230-MGTC which is made for the 2010 Mustang GT or M-5230-MSVTC made for the 2010 Shelby GT500, but either way, both are pretty much the exact same muffler with the only exception of possibly having different internal baffling for the M-5230-MSVTC 2010 GT500 over the M-5230-MGTC 2010 Mustang GT.

 

[ghunt81]

The hole is not tapered unfortunately. If you have enough room possibly you could thread a bolt or an easy-out into the tube? I would be afraid of damaging the block if you put something down into the tube and tried to pull it from the bottom. Either that or see if you can push the side in enough to clamp some needle nose vise grips onto it, then twist and pull. It's a tight area to be working in which makes anything more difficult. Best of luck with it.

 

[mikek2111987]

Really happy I stumbled on this thread. Was going to go cheap LT route, but have definitely decided on JBA ceramics now. Think Steeda motor mounts will be necessary on an 07?

 

[deezdrama]

Mikek.... Definatelly spend a little more for the jba's! I would go jba ceramics if i didnt already have the pypes midpipe.

I just ordered new d/s tube .... Im dying to go get this piece out but at same time discouraged and scared sh**less that ill push it in the pan or screw up the bore. Dropping the pan is not a sidestreet i wanted to take on this road of getting headers installed.
The tube was freely spinning quite easily so dont think ill be able to thread anything into the piece of tube and just dont see how its going to come out when i sprayed it down with pb blaster / warmed it with torch and twisted,pulled,pried on it for a couple hours as hard as i humanly could and it didnt budge.
Ill probably have to try and collapse it in on itself.... Just wonder if i should heat it up real good and try to cook the oring away first?

Ive spent probably 6 hours reading about peoples ways of removing broke dipstick tubes but nothing 4.6 specific (probably doesnt matter) but will start a new thread specific to the issue to hopefully get a few more views/ideas