Palanza's 06 GT Teksid Build lets goo

[JUSTA3V]

I haven't read the whole thread. Have you tried replacing the spark plugs?

 

[palanza7]

I haven't read the whole thread. Have you tried replacing the spark plugs?

na out of everything i read i never heard about plugs causing the codes.

 

[palanza7]

So I noticed if I pump my brakes enough and let off the car will bog down. Pumping them drops vac from 20 to 18. Is that normal?

Switching to stock gt500 cai still getting the codes. Sigh

I'm going to track down a fog machine and plumb that shit into a vac line and see if I can find a vac leak that way maybe.

 

[palanza7]

Welp, update time. Lito felt pretty good about there still being a vac leak. Got my buddies DJ fog machine, that was a bust. It filled the engine with the fog, but didnt see anything. It also ended up putting a good bit of water in the intake soo keep that in mind lol.

Determined to find the vac leak.. I sealed off the blower at the elbow and blew air into the boost reference line. From this test I heard air escaping somewhere. Boom. I've got a vac leak. After an hour of blowing and looking, I figured it was one of the gaskets on the manifold to the engine. I took the supercharger off and then taped off the intercooler area and blew again. Yup, same sound. This time sounded like coming from the back of the manifold.

So, removed the sucker, cleaned all the seals and put it back on. Blew again. Still the same leak. WTF - okay. took back off, re-examned. Put back on. Same sound. At this point I started to get suspicious of the manifold itself. So I decided I'd clean/seal off all the holes in the manifold and do the blow test again...

And boom, I heard the same hiss sound. Son of a bitch. So I then spent another half hour blowing my lungs out trying to determine where this hiss was coming from and I eventually found the site:

That middle bolt right there. From the bolt head and the corner where there is no RTV. Kinda irritating that the leak this entire time has been on the manifold itself. Emailed DoB, told me 6-7 weeks for a replacement or I could fix it myself. Kind of annoying that he doesn't keep at least one of these on the shelf for issues like this... like, wtf. But okay, this isnt rocket science.

So I took everything off, cleaned it all, applied a shit ton of RTV back to the pan, let it dry for a bit, then put the pan back on and after another hour tightened all the bolts back down to ~40 in/lbs. The pan itself wasn't very flat across the top, I guess it wasn't machined flat after fabrication to save money/time, the RTV does fill in the gaps but it would certainly be better if it was machined across the top.

Anyway, put it back on and no more hiss. At this point I'm not sure my overall experience has been worth the $ I saved going with this manifold BUT I'm sure I'm not the average when it comes to problems here and there sooo what ya gonna do.

I also decided to go with stainless steel bolts for the supercharger to manifold, no more rusty black bolts. Looks way nicer too.

Currently putting some miles on waiting for the evap stuff to reset and hopefully this solves my code issue and then also my idle issues.

edit: oh in other news, both of my PLX gauges have stopped functioning well. The multi-gauge has something broken in the sensor box, as when I jingle the USB cable it will start working intermittently. The DM-6 gauge just went out in the middle, the outer lights work but the number part is just black. No idea. Love it. I have a feeling this is going to be outside of any warranty but I emailed american muscle to see whats up.

Edit2: Oh and yeah, my replacement alternator has started not charging again on startup. I'm pretty convinced you need to have the pully with the clutch at this point. Funny I heard a lot of stuff that you didnt need to have a clutch pully but, I can't imagine any other reason that the alternators are going to pot than that instant 1500 RPM drop thats so violent it squeaks a 8 rib belt. So I'm thinking I'm going to put the oem clutch 6 rib pully in the lathe, machine the ribs off it flat, then make a shrink fit sleeve with 8 ribs and put it over it. I'm sure as hell not paying 300 dollars for an 8 rib clutch style pully.

After all this bullshit, I can totally understand why people opt to take their car to places like brenspeed, pay the extra 3 grand and have them do it.

 

[Department Of Boost]

That middle bolt right there. From the bolt head and the corner where there is no RTV. Kinda irritating that the leak this entire time has been on the manifold itself. Emailed DoB, told me 6-7 weeks for a replacement or I could fix it myself. Kind of annoying that he doesn't keep at least one of these on the shelf for issues like this... like, wtf. But okay, this isnt rocket science.

.

This is exactly what I said:

"I've never seen a pan leak, are you 100% sure it's doing it? If so I will warranty it for you. But it will take more time to get it in a box than to re-seal the pan. If you want to do it yourself I'll figure out an "atta boy" for you. Sorry man:-("

I would have warrantied it no questions asked. I was just pointing out that it would be more effort to box it up than to re-seal the pan. And it is.

I told you that it would be 6-7 weeks for a replacement in a later email. Even though replacing it would be counter to my, and everyone else's warranty policy (I actually plagiarized Whipples warrant policy). NO ONE replaces that stuff, they repair it. Me being expected to keep one in stock for a warranty situation that doesn't exist (replacing manifolds) doesn't track. Additionally expecting me to provide a higher standard of warranty service than the industry doesn't track either.....Even though I would have done it anyway.

Here is my (and Whipples) warranty policy:

http://departmentofboost.com/about/terms_conditions.htm

I absolutely feel horrible that the manifold got out of here less than perfect and more than a little bit guilty. It's embarrassing. I also understand what a huge PITA it is to track problems like that down. It sucks. That is why I was willing to do what it took to solve the problem. Be that repairing the manifold or going against the industry standard warranty policy and replacing it. I don't know what else I could have offered/done.

I apologize for the leaky pan and I apologize for the crap you had to go through to find it. And you still have an "atta boy" (which I always "pay") on credit too.

After all this bullshit, I can totally understand why people opt to take their car to places like brenspeed, pay the extra 3 grand and have them do it.

Your combination would have cost a whole lot more than $3000 (more) through a place like Brenspeed. Your combination is pretty extreme. It's not even close to an out of the box ROUSH install and tune. And the ROUSH will never make the power your combo does. I get that it has been a tough slog with everything. But your not dealing with a bolt on combo. As far as 3v stuff goes your way up there on the scale of radical. There are a whole lot of people with way more time/money/anguish in their combo then you that are making a lot less power.

If it were easy, everyone would have one.

 

[palanza7]

This is exactly what I said:

"I've never seen a pan leak, are you 100% sure it's doing it? If so I will warranty it for you. But it will take more time to get it in a box than to re-seal the pan. If you want to do it yourself I'll figure out an "atta boy" for you. Sorry man:-("

I would have warrantied it no questions asked. I was just pointing out that it would be more effort to box it up than to re-seal the pan. And it is.

I told you that it would be 6-7 weeks for a replacement in a later email. Even though replacing it would be counter to my, and everyone else's warranty policy (I actually plagiarized Whipples warrant policy). NO ONE replaces that stuff, they repair it. Me being expected to keep one in stock for a warranty situation that doesn't exist (replacing manifolds) doesn't track. Additionally expecting me to provide a higher standard of warranty service than the industry doesn't track either.....Even though I would have done it anyway.

Here is my (and Whipples) warranty policy:

http://departmentofboost.com/about/terms_conditions.htm

I absolutely feel horrible that the manifold got out of here less than perfect and more than a little bit guilty. It's embarrassing. I also understand what a huge PITA it is to track problems like that down. It sucks. That is why I was willing to do what it took to solve the problem. Be that repairing the manifold or going against the industry standard warranty policy and replacing it. I don't know what else I could have offered/done.

I apologize for the leaky pan and I apologize for the crap you had to go through to find it. And you still have an "atta boy" (which I always "pay") on credit too.


Your combination would have cost a whole lot more than $3000 (more) through a place like Brenspeed. Your combination is pretty extreme. It's not even close to an out of the box ROUSH install and tune. And the ROUSH will never make the power your combo does. I get that it has been a tough slog with everything. But your not dealing with a bolt on combo. As far as 3v stuff goes your way up there on the scale of radical. There are a whole lot of people with way more time/money/anguish in their combo then you that are making a lot less power.

If it were easy, everyone would have one.

Yeah don't get me wrong I get it would be repaired and thats the way to do it, but I'd have thought you would just keep one on the shelf to send out replace and then u can repair the one I ship back. Seems like it would be not all that difficult, granted you'd have some $ tied up in one sitting there.

I agree it was certainly not that difficult to fix, hence why I just went and did it. It was just the fact that this is the reason for a lot of my issues that I've been throwing $ at.. new maf, new o2 sensor, lots of throttle body electronic swaps, its been a lot of PITA stuff for a leak that I'd have never even considered lol so yeah hard to not get irritated.

But yeah, don't think I'm trying to talk shit here, just writing my frustrations out as they happened.

And yeah I don't really know how much extra having something like this done at a shop would be I guess, but my local guy quotes 1200 for a S/C install, I figured at least double for the additional work.

Edit: And yeah.. I guess in hindsight I had no idea exactly what I was getting into. I knew it would be a lot of work sometimes but phew buddy. Annoying to have one thing go wrong after another. In other news, looks like MMR's fuckup was a blessing in disguise considering my engine would probably have been in pieces if I'd have jammed it to 22 psi at stock compression. the world works in mysterious ways

 

[palanza7]

The exhaust and headers are on. Phew, what a job. Next time I need an air ratchet and a damn creeper to roll around on this cement floor of mine.

Anyway, noticing some brass/trumpeting sound around 3k RPM, def not a fan. Idle is amazing though. Going to check the area for a good exhaust shop and see about welding in 2 resonators after the X pipe to tone that rasp down. Or a custom H maybe. Or both lol.

 

[pics06gtstang]

coming along for ya i see , well thats great news .
it is all down hill from here , fingers crossed !
Hey dont you have a garage that sells the inspection stickers ?
thats how it used to be 30 years ago , slip the gas station guy a 20 and get a sticker .

 

[palanza7]

coming along for ya i see , well thats great news .
it is all down hill from here , fingers crossed !
Hey dont you have a garage that sells the inspection stickers ?
thats how it used to be 30 years ago , slip the gas station guy a 20 and get a sticker .

haha na but we do have a 5,000 mile exemption for emissions

 

[Department Of Boost]

haha na but we do have a 5,000 mile exemption for emissions

That's nice!!!

 

[palanza7]

Well guys, to anyone who thought the exhaust would drop some boost.. sigh. No boost drop. Actually I saw an increase on one of my pulls (wtf? ) the only other variable is I switched to the 14 gt500 cai due to snapping a screw off in my big jlt one. I figured a smaller cai would mean LESS boost not more soooooo idk. I think it's definitely time to check my boost sensor with another gauge. This is crazy. Hit 18.1 on first 3rd gear wot then hit 19.7 on a wot 1st,2nd,3rd. Idk maybe this is just what you get with a 2.3 tvs on a 4.6 engine.

So at this point I guess im just at the limit of 93 octane and my engine. Looking forward to see the hp # on the dyno. Really wanted to drop some psi to be safer without losing hp but I guess I'm at the limit. Going to just sell the nitrous kit lol

 

[travelers]

Sometimes when you go smaller you create a venturi effect and the air speed increases.

 

[Department Of Boost]

It wouldn't shock me to see the boost gauge is malfunctioning. If seen it a bunch of times.

When I was racing there was a saying in the pits:

"If you have one tire pressure gauge you know what your tire pressure is. If you have two, you have no idea."

 

[palanza7]

It wouldn't shock me to see the boost gauge is malfunctioning. If seen it a bunch of times.

When I was racing there was a saying in the pits:

"If you have one tire pressure gauge you know what your tire pressure is. If you have two, you have no idea."

Haha well put. Well today I did like 4 pulls and they all maxed out at 17.1 psi which would be a 1 psi drop from stock exhaust. Previously I always went off the max boost reading in the electronic gauge, meaning the max it hit the entire time until reset. By looking at the live reading it maxed at 17.1 everytime. So maybe it's 17 at exactly 6k rpm and it picks up 1psi if I get close to the Rev limit. Idk how 19.7 appeared the other day. Im hoping nothing weird is going on in the engine for it to very temporarily spike Extra psi.

That said 17 is where I want to be so I'm happy to hear that. In the future if I go to e85 I could drop pully size and pickup some more. A big part of me wanted to have a little nitrous shot.. because nitrous, but oh well lol

 

[bujeezus]

When I was racing there was a saying in the pits:

"If you have one tire pressure gauge you know what your tire pressure is. If you have two, you have no idea."

That is awesome!

 

[palanza7]

Been awhile, cars been doing pretty good. Boost seems to be averaging around 17 psi at WOT so that's nice for now with the ole 93.

Noticing high IAT's as the weather gets warmer.. on a WOT pull I hit 163 by the time I got to 6k in 3rd gear sooo thats probably going to be an ongoing issue.

Been shredding some belts recently as well, one inside rib completely tears off. Maybe something came out of alignment or was never lined up properly in the first place. So I'm going to have to get in there and really put the eyeball on the alignment.

 

[eighty6gt]

Weather affects boost for me, it's fairly noticeable.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Noticing high IAT's as the weather gets warmer.. on a WOT pull I hit 163 by the time I got to 6k in 3rd gear sooo thats probably going to be an ongoing issue.

For the boost you're running those IAT's are not at all abnormal (your blower discharge temps are about double what a car running 10psi has). Actually a bit low. I'm not saying you don't want them better, but don't think for a second that your average blower combo won't see those sorts of numbers.

What pump do you have again? What heat exchanger?

 

[palanza7]

For the boost you're running those IAT's are not at all abnormal (your blower discharge temps are about double what a car running 10psi has). Actually a bit low. I'm not saying you don't want them better, but don't think for a second that your average blower combo won't see those sorts of numbers.

What pump do you have again? What heat exchanger?

Rocking the 07 gt500 pump and a 2014 gt500 HE. I'm thinking of just saving up and going straight to an e85 return setup instead of futzing with a larger pump. It can run a good bit hotter than 93 before pulling timing right?

.... granted that'll be about 2k more than the bigger pump lmao

 

[Department Of Boost]

Rocking the 07 gt500 pump and a 2014 gt500 HE. I'm thinking of just saving up and going straight to an e85 return setup instead of futzing with a larger pump. It can run a good bit hotter than 93 before pulling timing right?

.... granted that'll be about 2k more than the bigger pump lmao

The bigger pump is $209. That will show a HUGE improvement.

With e85 you can technically run a hotter IAT and still be safe. IDK what Lito does for that. Does he raise the IAT threshold for timing? If you do the math on e85 and how much heat it pulls out and still remain very, very safe I calculated (with help) you can run a IAT of 185deg before you need to pull timing. Check out this thread:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/194918-What-Is-The-In-Cylinder-IAT-Drop-With-e85

Here is the pump:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301868988494?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649