Planning a Ford Racing “Aluminator” Build with associated mods over the winter

[Scott]

At home in the garage is great!! At home in the garage and not in pieces is even better lol.... Fill us in on how it drives, how the start up went... any ideas on what the problem was?

Congrats! So yeah.......what was the problem??

A little scary as we never found anything mechanically wrong that accounted for the RH head leak down issue to the exhaust when the motor was still in the car.

Plan is to get some miles on the new motor then it is back to the rollers. Everything was perfect on the hour drive home, never hotter than 195-200 degrees and the oil pressure is 60 lbs at idle and 80 cruising. The high oil pressure worries me a bit. I believe the RP break-in oil is 10W-30. With the 3V clearances and tolerances I maybe would have been better off with 5W-30. I think Joe Gibbs has a 5W-30 break-in oil. I plan on changing the oil at about 400km so I will see if I can get 5W-30 then. Will go back to synthetic oil at 3000km.

 

[ILW84U]

Great to see it running again. Enjoy the last couple of months of driving until 2014.

 

[Scott]

Rick thanks! Still have some parts stock piled to go on the car now that it is home:

• AFCO 2005-2010 Mustang GT Performance Aluminum Radiator
• AFCO Dual Pass Heat Exchanger with Dual Fans
• B&M Racing and Performance Products Hi-Tek Transmission Cooling System
• BMR Suspensions Upper Control Arm Mount
• BMR Suspensions Polyurethane Differential Bushing Kit
• Canton Racing Products Automatic Transmission Fluid Expansion Tank
• Fore Precision Triple Hat (Dual Pump) Return Style Fuel System (thanks Rick)
• Meziere 20GPM Electric Intercooler Pump
• Painless Performance Products Auxiliary Fuse Block with 7 Circuits
• SLP Line Lock Kit
• TurboXS Racing Blow Off Valve

 

[Dark_horse]

Joe Gibbs is BR-30... Im a rep for Joe Gibbs and the company is now call "Driven" Its great break in oil but I honestly would have started with it in the first place. JG chemically shears all the peaks and valleys as opposed to mechanically shearing them... all that trash from mechanically shearing is floating around in your motor fighting the anti wear additives for spots so to speak... I would drain that royal purple in a heart beat, change the filter, add the br30 run it for about 3-400 miles, then switch to LS30... It does not evaporate through the pcv system as bad and cuts oil consumption dramatically

 

[lethe]

Glad to see it made it's way home.

 

[tigerhonaker]

Hello Scott .........

Terry aka "tigerhonaker"

 

[Scott]

Finally got around to mounting the Canton transmission expansion tank:

 

[Scott]

Joe Gibbs is BR-30... Im a rep for Joe Gibbs and the company is now call "Driven" Its great break in oil but I honestly would have started with it in the first place. JG chemically shears all the peaks and valleys as opposed to mechanically shearing them... all that trash from mechanically shearing is floating around in your motor fighting the anti wear additives for spots so to speak... I would drain that royal purple in a heart beat, change the filter, add the br30 run it for about 3-400 miles, then switch to LS30... It does not evaporate through the pcv system as bad and cuts oil consumption dramatically

Ordered some BR-30 yesterday. Thanks for the information.

 

[Scott]

Glad to see it made it's way home.

Clearly, me too! lol

So far so good I only have about 150 kilometers on the new motor plan on putting another 150 on over the weekend and then it is due for an oil and filter change.

 

[Scott]

Hello Scott .........

Terry aka "tigerhonaker"

Hello to you to Terry! I am following your FRPP High Flow Cylinder Head thread with interest.

 

[tigerhonaker]

Hello to you to Terry! I am following your FRPP High Flow Cylinder Head thread with interest.

Scott,

I'll post what's up as soon as any real decision is made.
(There has not been at this time)

Also if you might have (Missed) the Thread below.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105928

Honestly this is all going to come down to what Brent (Brenspeed) and I can work out.
It is possible I will simply keep what I have.
But maybe Brent will go along with my Crazy-Ass new ideas for the "tigermachine".

Man your's looks so Awesome

Today, 11:02 AM #247 Scott​

Senior Member

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Join Date: Nov 2009

Location: King City, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 772
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Finally got around to mounting the Canton transmission expansion tank:​

​

​

Terry
USA

 

[Timmbo]

Wow, looks amazing under that hood Scott. Everything has it's place. Nice job!

 

[Scott]

Wow, looks amazing under that hood Scott. Everything has it's place. Nice job!

Thanks, but up close it needs a good cleaning!

I still need to find spots to mount an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and a 2 to 1 Y Block for the return style fuel system.

With 385km on the new motor did the first oil change today using Joe Gibbs Driven BR30 and a Ford Racing FL820 Filter, part number CM-6731-FL820.



Had to loosen the strut tower brace on the passenger side so I could move the coolant expansion tank over enough to get the oil fill cap on and off of the Moroso cam cover.

 

[konablue11gt]

Thanks, but up close it needs a good cleaning!

I still need to find spots to mount an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and a 2 to 1 Y Block for the return style fuel system.

With 385km on the new motor did the first oil change today using Joe Gibbs Driven BR30 and a Ford Racing FL820 Filter, part number CM-6731-FL820.



Had to loosen the strut tower brace on the passenger side so I could move the coolant expansion tank over enough to get the oil fill cap on and off of the Moroso cam cover.

JPC's New tank would help you. I had the same issue with my canton tank . The JPC tank has a front of tank location on its hole and is slimmer at the front which allows you a lot more room for oil cap removal and filling. You can order it unpainted/coated and get the same appearance as what you have now

 

[TurboX]

Not to derail your thread Scott but do you know how that filter stacks up against lets say a K&N ?

 

[Scott]

Sorry, can't help you there. I know nothing about K&N filters. Ford Racing filters have been the only filter I have used since buying the car.

 

[skwerl]

I purchased a Ford Racing drop in air filter when I was using the stock 2010 airbox. It came in a box that said Ford Racing and inside was a K&N air filter.

 

[BruceH]

Not to derail your thread Scott but do you know how that filter stacks up against lets say a K&N ?

I'm fairly certain it's the best modular filter you can buy. It flows and filters at high flow rates. Other filters just bypass when they get more than they can handle. This also has a high burst strength. A friend of mine had a stock Motorcraft filter burst while drag racing. Luckily he ended up in the grass instead of the wall.

 

[Scott]

Have not posted an update for over a month, so here goes.

In anticipation of the winter not being a total loss on recovering from hip replacement surgery I have started a stock pile of parts for the fall, winter and spring build. If all goes as planned I will tackle the following:

Upgrading the Cooling System – when the new motor was assembled I put in a Hypertech 160 Degree Thermostat, now adding an AFCO Mustang GT Performance Aluminum Radiator and a SVT Performance Cooling Fan

• Ford Racing 2005 – 2013 Mustang Performance Cooling Fan, part number M-8C607-SVT



• AFCO High Performance Aluminum Radiator, part number AFC-81281-S-AN-N



Fan resting on Radiator



Upgrading the Heat Exchanger – adding a GT500 AFCO Dual Pass Heat Exchanger with Dual 10” Fans and a Meziere 20GPM electric coolant pump.

• AFCO Dual Pass Heat Exchanger with Dual Fans, part number 80280PRO



• Meziere 20GPM Electric Intercooler Pump, part number WP136S



Transmission Cooling – not sure about this one, I already have the cooler but so far with the Performance Automatic Deep Pan the transmission temperature has yet to be elevated.

• B&M Racing and Performance Products Hi-Tek Transmission Cooling System , part number 70297



Suspension and Brake Upgrades – have had these parts for over a year and I guess I should get around to installing them one of these days. Would make sense to clean and paint the axle housing when I am under the car.

• BMR Suspensions Upper Control Arm Mount, part number UCM001



• BMR Suspensions Polyurethane Differential Bushing Kit, part number EN001`



• SLP Line Lock Kit, part number M25002



Return Style Fuel System Upgrade – have been collecting pieces for some time now, but still waiting on a few odds and ends. More to follow on this subject as the parts gathering and install proceed.

• Fore Precision Triple Hat (Dual Pump) Return Style Fuel System



Electrical System Upgrades – when I relocated the battery to the trunk I did not install an external shut off. Going to add one now and also an auxiliary fuse block with room for seven new circuits. When the new motor was installed I did not relocate the IAT sensor to the intake manifold, will address this now and assess the use of a PMAS HPX MAF Sensor with my tuner (MattD).

• Flaming River Battery Disconnect Switch, part number FR1003-2



• Painless Performance Products Auxiliary Fuse Block with 7 Circuits, part number 70107



• PMAS HPX MAF Sensor, part number HPX



• IAT Sensor relocation to an Intake Manifold Runner (IAT Kit), AM part number 52997

 

[TurboX]

Good luck Scott, BMR Suspensions Polyurethane Differential Bushing Kit, part number EN001 has to be the absolute hardest mod I have ever seen done on a car. Calling it a PITA is a understatement.