Prepping for track soon

Discussion in 'Drag Racing Tech Discussion & Timeslips' started by CammedS197, Feb 19, 2018.

  1. CammedS197

    CammedS197 forum member

    540
    26
    Hey guys,

    Been quite a few years since I've hit the track. Planning on going soon with some friends and brothers. Best I have done with my 3 valve is a 13.5 which was just lowering springs, crap tires, catted x pipe, and borlas. Don't remember trap speeds or 60'. Many have said I'm looking at possibly 12.5's on my car. Do yall think this car should be capable of that? Any ideas what a reasonable 60' should be and 1/8 and 1/4 should be along with trap speeds? I just want to do 12's and I'm happy. If I can run further into the 12's I'd be floored but a 12.99 is good for me.

    I am 5 speed and I now have an MGW and shifting is much better. I'm not the greatest driver but I'd say I'm a little above average, I'm not terrible. Launching is my downfall but I recently got new rear springs, shocks, BMR LCA's and the relo brackets installed and WOW, I am much better at launches. I take the shifting some what easy and try not to kill it but they are smooth, not trying to rip out of gear and slam into the next and tear the 3650 up. I follow the slow is smooth and smooth is fast. It's my daily driver.

    But I'm Cammed, CAI, gt500 throttle, longtubes, offroad H, MBRP mufflers, and all wrapped up by the man Lito. That's it for power and I'm putting a consistent 357/335 to the wheels on same dyno on 93 octane and tuned for daily driving. May do some logging at the track for Lito.

    Suspension is: all stock front but springs (SR springs from AM going to BMR front lowering soribgs to go softer and no more sag) with refreshed front suspension except for the struts. Rear is BMR poly LCA's, BMR relocation brackets, Koni orange shocks, Steeda ultralite rear springs (so much nicer than the SR crap!), BMR poly panhard rod, Stock diff and the stock 3.55 gears. Better and wider rear tires now and I have the MGW as well.

    Note this is a daily driver that will see the drag strip hoping 1 time a month soon or even every 2 months. But 100% daily and I like to also have some fun spirited driving and I hit sebring or the FIRM once a year. I't not a dedicated race car. But I plan on getting the koni struts and BMR front springs then Sam Strano sway bars and then rebuild/refresh the while rearend and go to 3.73' or 4.10's with a torsen. If I buy one it will be the eaton and I'll get 4.10's but If I find a wrecked 13-14 track pack 5.0 I'm going to just pull it's torsen with the 3.73's and go with those. Will also go to a FRPP finned dif cover.

    Wife is getting me a set of the SVE drag wheels for my birthday so I will eventually have those for the track when I go.

    With those drag wheels will the eaton or factory torsen in the track pack yotes be safe? I dont want a limited slip ever again cause I do not want to have to rebuild it again and again also like I said it's a daily so cannot have a full posi lol. Need to turn whichis why I'm after the torsen.

    Thanks guys and I'll post a slip when I finally go, going to be a fun day!
     
  2. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

    2,448
    123
    Drop the rear tire pressure to 20 psi and drop the clutch like you've got a pair. If you really want to improve loose the front sway bar and remove everything in the trunk that isn't bolted down.
     
  3. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

    1,758
    51
    Those Koni orange shocks and lowering springs are going to hurt weight transfer. You can hide the symptoms with a dedicated set of sticky tires for the strip but you will still be leaving some on the table. Since you have 3.55s don't get too carried away with the tire size and stick with a 26" height tire.

    If you are staying NA street/strip I would say skip the 3.73s and get 4.10s or 4.30s, but you mention road courses so that won't be the best idea. Either way 3.73 is an awkward gear because you will cross the stripe in 4th with the motor bogging, as opposed to staying in 3rd with 3.55s and screaming to the finish. So if road racing is important to you I would keep the stock gears and rebuild the LSD as necessary. Or get a Eaton Truetrac.
     
  4. redfirepearlgt

    redfirepearlgt forum member

    2,170
    74
    I ran a 26" Nitto DR (not a DR in my book) on my 2005 with just a CAI and tune (car long since gone). 5speed, 3.55 gear just like your original setup. Nothing done to the suspension and ran a best 13.35 on a 2.0 60ft. The car had maybe 300 at the wheel at that point in its life and that is being generous. I didn't beat the car to death shifting either. You should be able to find a high twelve with the setup you have IMHO. Stick with a 26" DR as mentioned above. Consider the R series MT or similar in an MH or Hoosier DR. A bias ply will be the best benefit over a radial for your stick shift setup. Find that 1.8 or 1.79 60ft and with some good air and smooth shifting you should see 12.9X with little effort...maybe even quicker. Best of luck to you.
     
  5. CammedS197

    CammedS197 forum member

    540
    26
    Oka
    Thanks, I'll definitely do the tire pressure. What benefit exactly does losing the front sway bar do exactly? I'm not crazy though and its just for fun every now and again since she's my daily. I'll drop it pretty good. Will probably take a few runs to get it right.

    Thanks and I'll stick to a 26" tire. What do you think about a 3.90 gear? Well It's a big difference over the stock shocks and SR springs lol. But if there is some left on the table then it's not a huge deal to me since I am setting up for a nice comfortable daily that can do okay at the strip and turn decent. But what sort of springs or shocks would you have in mind. Also I went with the Koni orange due to budget and a pal had these and the Steeda ultralite springs on his rear for only 5,000 miles and swapped out to viking or something. His is a dedicated drag car with a turbo.
     
  6. CammedS197

    CammedS197 forum member

    540
    26
    Thanks redfire. I have gotten better with this car. And i think I should be able to knock off half a second with being generous 50-60 more wheel hp and better suspension. I'm going to just go with my street tires this round and see how I do. Next time I go I should at least have my SVE 15x10 rear drag wheels with some good tires.
     
  7. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

    2,448
    123
    Losing the front sway bar will let the car transfer better and hold the high RPM clutch drop off the line
     
  8. Brandon08GT

    Brandon08GT forum member

    280
    29
    Let me know when you go and I’ll try to meet you if I can.
     
  9. CammedS197

    CammedS197 forum member

    540
    26
    Alright. Will do man. Hope the trans is working good. I'm wanting to swap in my Exedy my wife got awhile ago for me lol. Came with new pilot and slave. Going to research on the preload and if I should buy one of the spacers for the slave/throw out bearing. Didn't know about that on these till you had your stuff done and someone mentioned it. Will also do braided clutch line at the same time.
     
    Brandon08GT likes this.
  10. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

    1,758
    51
    A 3.90 would be a good compromise. You'll be crossing the line at 5600rpm in 4th if your trap speed is 110mph. Those are numbers from a gear calculator.
     
  11. CammedS197

    CammedS197 forum member

    540
    26
    I dont believe ford racing makes a 3.90. What brand should I go with?

    I've seen richmond and motive. Dont want crazy ass gear whine but want superb reliability/quality like frpp stuff.
     
  12. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

    1,758
    51
    There are guys here using Richmond gears with good results. I know everyone says to use FRPP so getting a different brand may be a gamble.
     
  13. Sactown

    Sactown Sactown

    5,181
    17
    I would be surprised if you cracked into the 12's, but 12.5 IMO is out of the question, but none of that really matters as long as you are having fun. Good luck, let us know how it goes.
     
  14. NickD87

    NickD87 forum member

    543
    3
    Unlike sactown I do think your goals achievable as I've done it.
    That said you have to realize that it's going to take some work and a proper tire.

    4.10s 26" tire are what's missing.
    Also shed as much weight as you can, trunk, rear seat and passenger seat.

    I had similar mods; JLT, gt500tb, FR intake, hot rod cams, 1 3/4 longtubes. Mgw, stock clutch, 4.10 with stock diff. BMR sp009 springs with stock shocks, lower control arms with relocation brackets in center hole. Stock upper.
    26" heat cooked et street radials on 17" stock rims and heavy ass 19" fronts. (Dynoed 335 and like 285ft lbs for some reason)

    Second gear burnout to force the tires to stick, launch at 5k and shift as fast as you can. 1.7 Ave launch would yeild a 12.50 at 109.
    I did pull off a 1.56 once but missed a gear.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
     
    46addict likes this.
  15. David Young

    David Young Junior Member

    45
    0
    If CammedS197 really has 357 wheel horsepower, he should run a 12.5-12.7 second quarter. Just my estimate :)
     
  16. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

    1,758
    51
    What RPM were you shifting at?
     
  17. NickD87

    NickD87 forum member

    543
    3
    I can't remember exactly but 6500-7k I think power rolled off in the high rpm and it would have been quicker to shift earlier, but if I remember it was different in different gears for some reason (Lito I think may have told me?)

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
     
  18. CammedS197

    CammedS197 forum member

    540
    26
    I'd be stoked if I can get that! Hopefully getting there soon. This weekend got canceled since uncle sam said I had to train this weekend.
     
  19. CammedS197

    CammedS197 forum member

    540
    26
    I plan on 6100-6300 is where I'll start my shifts.
     
  20. XJCasper

    XJCasper forum member

    296
    0
    This post has been out of commission for about 5 months, so I want to hijack it, or should I re-post all of the following separately...?

    I read the recommendations and the Poster's disposition sounds similar to mine....
    Similar set up minus cams and stock suspension. Intend adding Mother Thumper cams and the Ford Racing intake manifold.
    Due to damage to my factory gears, I have to re-gear ASAP....

    Last summer when this was only a want, I decided to go 4.56 or 4.30, and bump my tire diameter up to 28-28.25". Life has changed and the Mustang is not supposed to be a daily driver. But it is so much fun to show off during the summer. When she is driven, it's a 40/60 mix of city/freeway. Freeway speed limits are 70 mph around here.

    Now that I have to dig into the gears, the mechanic I am taking the gearing to recommended 3.73 or 4.10. He believes the 4.10's would leave the car wound too high on the freeway. I settled on 4.10 since I currently do spend much of my driving time passing left lane campers in 4th gear. But I still debate pushing up to 4.30.

    What input do y'all have?

    Ultimate tire sizes and diameters are still questionable. Currently I am running the Nitto 450 275/50/17 on a 17x8" RaceStars. While I want to fill up the rear fender better, I love the appearance of the rear tires I have. Due to my body kit, when I start on the suspension, I DO NOT want any drop the car. I wouldn't mind experimenting with a larger, stickier tire on the 17x8's. I will eventually switch to a 18x9.5-10.5 or 15x10" Darkstar or SVE in the rear. Still debating appearance vs economics of running slicks or DR's all summer. Ultimately, my tires will be up to 28"s

    Dang, this got long-winded....
    To wrap it up....
    While I have had faster cars, I have never had a car I wanted to build for road and strip. There is so much information out there I have confused the hell out of myself. What input can you guys clear up for me?

    Thank you