Project Break a Boss

ford20

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I don't see the thrust bearing above, what does it look like?

If I am correct this would be the thrust bearing no? You can see in the first picture there are some speckled dots near the tab. Upon closer inspection it looks to be the same as the the same dots on the main bearings. To me it looks like it is melted bearing material but I am not 100% positive. I will take some closer shots when I get home from work tonight or maybe if I can get home for lunch I will take some quick pics.

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I just took some quick pictures of what I was talking about. Here is the picture of #3 Main bearing.

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As you can see it looks like there was some bearing material that was there and melted on the bearing. If I am understanding correctly, wouldn't this be a major sign of oil starvation where the bearing gets so hot it melts the metal?

Also, here is the back of #3 bearing. You can see the cross hatching being completely removed in this spot.

20141125_220128_zpstfzyrgbb.jpg


Also, the front thrust bearing is gone as best as I can tell. I can't find it anywhere and I don't remember anything falling off. I see the imprints of it but I can't seem to locate it.
 
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ford20

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Wow, great writeup. Any ideas what caused the bearing to fail? Threads like this make me paranoid.

Thanks dude! I am thinking oil starvation but I'm not certain how. I don't even know how I would be able how it happened. I mean a couple of days maybe 2 weeks prior I put in 2 quarts of oil in. I don't think running the engine on somewhere like 6 quarts of oil would cause this much damage.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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Sean its possible. You realize guys are overfilling their engines when racing, right??? When i had the oil issues in my old car the dealer installed 10 qts and scribed the stick at that level.
 

ford20

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Sean its possible. You realize guys are overfilling their engines when racing, right??? When i had the oil issues in my old car the dealer installed 10 qts and scribed the stick at that level.

To be honest, I did not know that. I figured that they would be running whatever the oil capacity of the oil cooler and oil pan. Although it does make sense now that you mention it. I am very much a greenhorn to be honest. I think that due to all of the build threads and whatnot on here I have been able to get this far.
 

ford20

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I was out cleaning some things up in the garage putting parts away when I noticed these on both of the intake phasers. It almost seem slike a casting mistake or something since they are on both the intake phasers. Does anyone know if this is the case or if this is something that is wrong with them?

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05stroker

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Fuck off!!! :clap:


J/K, I have never noticed that on mine but haven't looked for it either. What seems odd is the marks don't line up from tooth to tooth.
 

ford20

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Fuck off!!! :clap:


J/K, I have never noticed that on mine but haven't looked for it either. What seems odd is the marks don't line up from tooth to tooth.

Haha I was wondering how many of those I would get lol.

I was thinking the same thing for the first 2 or 3 minutes until I noticed they alternate between a 2 and 3 pattern and they look to line up. Although I am not certain why they are though although I'm not sure if they are supposed to be like that or not either.
 

WARstang

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They are die stamped. It's called sheer and break and happens when all metal is die cut. Top 50% of the cut edge is sheered and then the rest breaks.



Edit: nevermind. I think you are referring to the dimples in the gears? Not the rough edges of the phasers?
 
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ford20

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They are die stamped. It's called sheer and break and happens when all metal is die cut. Top 50% of the cut edge is sheered and then the rest breaks.



Edit: nevermind. I think you are referring to the dimples in the gears? Not the rough edges of the phasers?

I am more so talking about the cracks (for lack of a better term) and missing part of the metal on the phasers. Although I will admit I had no idea about the dimples. That is some good information right there.

From what I was told this is just a characteristic of the method of producing the phasers seeing as how they are die cast.

That is caused by the method used to manufacture that plate. It was stamped out of sheet stock. That is a result of the die clearance. I believe the dots on the sprocket teeth are for dampening harmonics.

It is a relic of the method used to produce the part. I would not worry about it. The way the part is being used, it will not affect the structural integrity of the system. Punching it out of flat plate is the cheapest method for making millions of those parts. If it was a stressed component, that would not be the best method for producing it. For instance, you would not want to make a connecting rod that way, as those striations on the edges would lead to stress fractures due to loading cycles and the part would fail fairly quickly.
 
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ford20

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I think I am just going to beat on them with a hammer until they recede into the block and are even with the deck. Or maybe grab a pair of channel locks and try and pull them out that way.
 

BruceH

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I think I am just going to beat on them with a hammer until they recede into the block and are even with the deck. Or maybe grab a pair of channel locks and try and pull them out that way.


The ones for the heads? Just a pair of pliers usually. They will compress and come out easy.
 

ford20

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The ones for the heads? Just a pair of pliers usually. They will compress and come out easy.

Yes sir. Thank you! I guess I wasn't squeezing hard enough since the pliers would just slip off everytime I tried doing that.
 

ford20

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I ordered a whole bunch of stuff for the Black Friday specials that have been going on to try and help alleviate the cost of the build. Parts have been trickeling in and I have been gathering them in the garage for now. Considering it has been fairly cold and the garage isn’t heated I haven’t been able to put away the parts like I have wanted to so the garage is really starting to get pretty crowded.

Anyway I picked up the following parts:

  • 2013 GT500 Cooling Fan – Part# M-8C607-MSVT
  • Aeroforce Interceptor Single Gauge – Part# CN101
  • Aeroforce Black Bezel –Part# AF-BEZEL-BLACK
  • Aeroforce Black Boss 302 Gauge Face – Part# AF-LOGO-BOSS302
  • Aeroforce 5V regulator kit – Part# AF-SENS010
  • BMR K-Member - Part #KM018
  • BMR Tubular A-Arms – Part # AA021
  • BMR Radiator Support – Part # RS003
  • Kooks Long Tube Headers 1 7/8ths – Part# 11412400 Supersedes Part #60-41-188
  • McLeod RST Clutch with Lightweight Steel flywheel Package – JPC Racing Part # 1124
  • Moroso Race Oil Pan – Part # 20572
  • Oil Pan Gasket – Part# BR3Z-6710-A
  • Oil Pickup Tube – Part# BR3Z-6622-A
  • Oil Pump – Part# BR3Z-6600-A
  • Roush Vent Pod – Part# 404470
  • TSS Billet Oil Pump Gears – JPC Racing Part # 1760 (It may be the same as TSS’s but I couldn’t find a part number on their website)

I got sorta bored just doing nothing so I went out and grabbed the Gauge bezel off of the car so I can put in the Roush vent pod and drop in the Aeroforce gauge to see what it looks like.

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I was trying to keep it somewhat sleeper where if you weren’t looking for it you wouldn’t really notice it in there. I may take the black gauge face that came with it and remove the Aeroforce logo and put a Red Boss 302 logo in that one and see what it looks like.

First Post update with a Parts List
 
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ford20

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Here are some pics of the Moroso Race Pan since it is such a work of art. I have seen a lot of Boss 302 guys running the Moroso Race Pan as well as the Canton unit (In fact that is what Kenny Brown uses on his line of cars). When asking about it I just kept getting the same answer about the Moroso Race Pan. The internal baffling and trap door setup works to keep the oil where it should be and will prevent any oil starvation issues when braking and in mid turn. It also has a bung on it for an oil temperature sensor which is an excellent tool to have for when you are going around the track to keep an eye on things and just a great idea in general. You will need the 5V regulator to run it with the Aeroforce gauge though so don't forget to either buy the one Aeroforce sells or makeone yourself. I just have to figure out which oil temperature sensor to get and get it all wired to the Aeroforce gauge. I believe Aerofroce has one but I will email them after the holiday and see if that is what I should be using.

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It is supposed to be beautiful out this weekend so I plan on getting the BMR pieces installed as well as clean up a lot of the items in the garage and putting them in bins for storage until it comes time to re assemble the engine.

Speaking of which I started to get things finalized with JPC regarding the build of the shortblock. I will be using a 2013 block in which they will be using the Darton Hat Style Sleeves with an offset ground crank creating approximately 326CI (so much for the 302 in Boss 302 lol). Internals will be custom Diamond Pistons, Total Seal Rings AP finish, Manley Lightweight I beam rods, King HP Series Mains, Clevite Rod Bearings, and ARP Hardware along with Teflon Skirt coating on the Pistons. I will keep the stock compression ratio as I plan to run it on pump gas until I can find a reliable place for E85. I just put down the deposit to get started on the pistons so I will be working pretty much every day for the foreseeable future in order to get everything completed. I am hoping to have everything done before Carlisle in June but funding will be the deciding factor in whether or not that will actually happen. If not it's ok no biggy but it would be kind of nice.

Have a Merry Christmas everyone!! If you don't celebrate it at least enjoy your probable day off :)

Sean
 

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