racing rims and wheel

[SoundGuyDave]

Thanks again, Ghost! I started at 32PSI (Hoosier's recommendation given the portly weight), which wound up with hot pressures right at 38psi all the way around. No pyrometer data (gotta pick one up, along with crew!), but wear all looked good with a -2.75* camber setting. I should have mentioned that I did order tire totes...

 

[Random Asshole]

...all I can say is "Thanks, ASSHOLE!!!" I owe you some beer!

It felt fantastic to have real rubber under me at last, and 2010 is going to be a BLAST!!!!

LOL. That good, aye? Well I'm glad that grassroots motorsports was right. I just ran my ecstas in the rain at autobahn south course on saturday. It fuckin sucked so bad. I eventually got 1 decent run in and ended up posted the second fastest lap of the day. It was the fastest for a while, until a 500hp fully gutted and caged EVO with a wing off a 747 came in and took it from me (by 2 seconds). The thing that really pissed me off was that I went off on my cool down lap, so they disqualified my best run. I was volatile for a while..until I started drinking heavily at hooters.

BTW Dave, I got my new shock in, so the tokico is ready for return. We should conclude our seasons over a few brews.

And fuck that bumper!!! 6 points?!?!...you can't make a brick aerodynamic. Just make it faster.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

LOL. That good, aye? Well I'm glad that grassroots motorsports was right. I just ran my ecstas in the rain at autobahn south course on saturday. It fuckin sucked so bad. I eventually got 1 decent run in and ended up posted the second fastest lap of the day. It was the fastest for a while, until a 500hp fully gutted and caged EVO with a wing off a 747 came in and took it from me (by 2 seconds). The thing that really pissed me off was that I went off on my cool down lap, so they disqualified my best run. I was volatile for a while..until I started drinking heavily at hooters.

A few questions on that... First off, are the classes that loose that you would be in the same division as a gutted/caged car with major aero?!?!? Second, are the three most embarrasing things to happen on track: 1) running out of gas. 2) Going "off" on your warm-up lap, 3) Going "off" on your cool-down lap...

BTW Dave, I got my new shock in, so the tokico is ready for return. We should conclude our seasons over a few brews.

Awesome!! Name the time and place, and I'm there!

And fuck that bumper!!! 6 points?!?!...you can't make a brick aerodynamic. Just make it faster.

Yeah, I hear you! It's a beautiful looking bumper, but I would much rather have cams... There's another winter project: develop custom cams, and mod the front bumper to keep the cooling going and add brake ducts that are NOT in the corners of the lower intake... Need a huge, flat torque curve... That, and coil-overs, and corner-weighting, and revising the anti-dive, and redoing the brake hydraulics, and.... Gonna be a long winter.

 

[Random Asshole]

No, the classes aren't that loose. I was just saying that I had the fastest lap of the day over EVERYONE until someone finally grew some ballls. Saturday definitely separated the boys from the men. The only other competitor in my class was AWD, though. His fastest dry run wasn't faster than me, but it started raining again before I had a chance to do it claim what was rightfully mine. That was complete bullshit, though. I didn't spin, I just pushed out on corner exit and rode along side of the course for a second. I could understand if I spun out completely and came to a stop and slowed down the track, but I didn't lose speed, I stayed at pace dukes of hazzard style. But the rules are the rules...Either way, the season is over and the championship is mine.

I want cams too. I was thinking of just going FRPP, but a custom grind sounds interesting. I want as much power with as much fuckin lope as possible.

We gotta talk about NASA, I want more competition..and track time. This getting everthing perfect in 1 god damn lap is almost impossible. Don't get me wrong, I love a good challenge..But I think I'd shine with a couple flying laps.

btw, what's your beef with putting the brake duct intakes in the stock lower grill? I do notice there's a hell of a bend there going around the radiator, but it still works.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Okay, I missed the "best lap overall" vibe, which on a re-read was there. Nice job, none the less!

We'll chat about cams over sudsy beverages soon... I probably won't wind up doing anything about them until the beginning of the year, but that gives lots of time for research and brainstorming...

As for NASA, I'll bring the kool-aid to our meeting. I'm honestly not sure where you would fit in the HPDE ladder given your experience set, but it wouldn't take long for you to get into -4, which is open passing (anywhere, anytime, point-by optional), and that is a pre-requisite for a Time Trials license. Easy enough to do, though! Do you have any licensing through Council? If you do, that may just translate right over. Gotta have traffic management skills to survive in TT, though. In the Great Lakes/Midwest regions, we run five 15-minute run sessions per day. First session is a warmup combined with "qualifying," and the next session is gridded based on lap times from the warm-up. Each succeeding session grids based on the times from the previous session, so you can move around. It helps having faster cars in front of you, they act like a "rabbit" for you to chase... Winner of the day (per class) is determined by the single one fastest lap of the day. Each day in a weekend is a separate event, and there are contingency prizes for the winners. Assuming 3 entries in your class, the winner gets a Hoosier tire. That's a pair per weekend. Assuming 5 entries in the class, winner gets a pair of tires, second place gets a single tire... Also, discount certificates for Hawk brake pads, as well. Hit the NASA website for the details.

Brake ducts: I have an oil cooler in the corner of the lower grille where the brake duct would go, and I do NOT want to replumb the car... I have no problem cutting up my stock fascia to fit the duct inlets, so...

 

[marksti]

I want cams too. I was thinking of just going FRPP, but a custom grind sounds interesting. I want as much power with as much fuckin lope as possible.

Don't get me wrong a extra 20 hp close to redline helps and the sound is nice..but you will have to take a hit on low low end power.


Our cars are pretty well cammed to begin with..you can rev them out to 6500 all day

Theres alot of other areas our cars need improvments on

(All this coming fom a guy that bought and installed cams 2 weeks after they came to market, LOL)

 

[Random Asshole]

Yeah, I hear ya. I'm not interested in losing power down low, but those hot rod cams sound so god damn good. I'd have to drink about it for a while.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

I'm also leaning toward the FRPP "Hot Rod" cams along with a set of coated Kooks LT headers w/ catted H-pipe as my next set of mods. I thought I read somewhere that while you may lose a little down low, you achieve significant gains (~25+ cam only) in HP and TQ in the RPM range where you spend most of your time on a road course - between 3500 to 6000 RPMs. This is the only reason I'm considering these cams - the cool sound is a bonus. Please let me know if my assumptions are off. Thanks.

RE: Wheels and Tires. I recommend running 18" front and rear since this size provides you the most tire options and best prices. If you plan to do HPDE - good idea to use the same size on the front and rear, e.g., 275/35-18 or 285/35-18 so you can rotate them as they wear. IMHO, the 19" and 20" wheels are for bling only and not practical for the track - tires that run a lower profile - less than 35 - will definitely impact the quality of your ride.

 

[marksti]

I'm also leaning toward the FRPP "Hot Rod" cams along with a set of coated Kooks LT headers w/ catted H-pipe as my next set of mods. I thought I read somewhere that while you may lose a little down low, you achieve significant gains (~25+ cam only) in HP and TQ in the RPM range where you spend most of your time on a road course - between 3500 to 6000 RPMs. This is the only reason I'm considering these cams - the cool sound is a bonus. Please let me know if my assumptions are off. Thanks.
.

The power band did improve in the 5000 rpm and up range..in my case anyways

 

[NEMustang]

Before I can make the jump to the Brembos, I have to get a street wheel that will clear as well, so here is my thinking: IF the +35 clears the front, and hangs out too much in back, I'll just get a set in +45 for the rears, and swap the rubber around. +35 front, +45 rear offsets for both street and track, and all is good. If the rears clear, then I might get a set of GT500 wheels (Same price as the Pentars, probably the same weight, too), OR I might get another set of FN01's. More info and pix after I actually lay eyes on them...

The rear is the wrong offset, and optimally I would use two different offsets front and rear for clearance issues. Front is a 35mm and rear should be near a 55, but I have not fitted and done this yet.

Hi guys, I just picked up a set of RPF1s, in 18x10, +38mm offset....

I'm resurrecting an old thread here trying to ascertain valid tire/wheel sizing. My 2007 GT/CS currently has stock suspension. No Griggs SLA, no lowering springs, etc.

My goal is a 305/35/18 all around. I will need minimum 10" wheels. I have read various posts in this thread on offsets. It seems that +35 work on the front. However, there seems to be different information on a rear offset. Is there an offset that works for both front and rear? I have seen other threads with +38 or +40 offsets.

Does anyone have the definitive answer on max wheel size/tire and appropriate offsets to run largest tire all around (no SLA or Coil-Overs or different struts yet...but soon!)?

BTW, just joined Friday morning..this is my first post...been reading non-stop over the weekend....Great site!

 

[FR500GT]

I'm resurrecting an old thread here trying to ascertain valid tire/wheel sizing. My 2007 GT/CS currently has stock suspension. No Griggs SLA, no lowering springs, etc.

My goal is a 305/35/18 all around. I will need minimum 10" wheels. I have read various posts in this thread on offsets. It seems that +35 work on the front. However, there seems to be different information on a rear offset. Is there an offset that works for both front and rear? I have seen other threads with +38 or +40 offsets.

Does anyone have the definitive answer on max wheel size/tire and appropriate offsets to run largest tire all around (no SLA or Coil-Overs or different struts yet...but soon!)?

BTW, just joined Friday morning..this is my first post...been reading non-stop over the weekend....Great site!

Ill be in the same boat for my next wheel/tire combo. Im looking to run a square setup of 19x10.5 +35 with a 305/30/19 all around. The inside should clear fine. Im just worried that it might slightly poke out!

 

[ArizonaGT]

Good luck finding track tires for 19" wheels

 

[Sleeper_08]

305/30/19 must be on something because a check at Tire Rack on this size turned up 19 hits on high performance and some R-comps

It is the rear tire size on a Porsche 911 GT3.

 

[marksti]

Good luck with the 19's

I don't know if theres a "CHEAP" way to fit 305s at all four corners

The least costly way maybe to call CCW and have some trick wheels made to fit...figure 18's tho

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

I understand the C6 Z06 and Nissan GTR use 19" and 20" wheels, but you're going to find a better selection of street and track tires at a much better price for the 18" wheels. I run 18" CCW C14 wheels on the front and rear of my Corvette C5 - using 335 rear and 315 front. Another recommendtion to call CCW - they will give you the proper offsets to clear, etc.

 

[NEMustang]

I've seen many posts on this site where people claim a 10" is the max that will fit on the front. However, no one states the offset that works. Someone must have this tech.

I talked with Ground Control and am contemplating their Koni strut conversion (front is same as Griggs SS setup). Jay at GC indicated that he could get another 5-7 mm with a custom strut mount (no additional charge). Also, the smaller spring perch may give a little wiggle room.

Again, no mods yet, want non-staggered setup, must not extend outside of fender and want to run the Toyo 305-35-18 RA1 that are on sale cheap. I may have to run different offset rims. I cannot get anyone to confirm any offsets for minimum 10 rims.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

I've seen many posts on this site where people claim a 10" is the max that will fit on the front. However, no one states the offset that works. Someone must have this tech.

I talked with Ground Control and am contemplating their Koni strut conversion (front is same as Griggs SS setup). Jay at GC indicated that he could get another 5-7 mm with a custom strut mount (no additional charge). Also, the smaller spring perch may give a little wiggle room.

Again, no mods yet, want non-staggered setup, must not extend outside of fender and want to run the Toyo 305-35-18 RA1 that are on sale cheap. I may have to run different offset rims. I cannot get anyone to confirm any offsets for minimum 10 rims.

Did you call Roush since they sell a 18x10 wheel that fits the front (used on all corners) for their offset information? They list their offset as 45mm. Some companies don't like to share this information "freely" unless you purchase their wheels. Call CCW. How many SCCA and NASA race car drivers use anything larger than a 305 on their S197 Mustangs?

 

[NEMustang]

Did you call Roush since they sell a 18x10 wheel that fits the front (used on all corners) for their offset information? They list their offset as 45mm. Some companies don't like to share this information "freely" unless you purchase their wheels. Call CCW. How many SCCA and NASA race car drivers use anything larger than a 305 on their S197 Mustangs?

Gray Ghost GT,

Thanks for the tips...yes, I assumed that some might be protective of sizes/offsets...but someone must have the tech. I will try Roush, CCW and some others tomorrow.


I have 18"x9" all around on 235/50/18 and was contemplating a 275/35/18 Star Specs at $252 at Tire Rack. Toyos are on sale at $229 for 275/35/18 and only $179 for the 305/35/18!! Since it is $50 less per tire for the 305 right now, the extra saving could be spent on some inexpensive wheels. If I can find and fit a proper offset 10", I can have a dedicated track set with the 305s.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

Gray Ghost GT,

Thanks for the tips...yes, I assumed that some might be protective of sizes/offsets...but someone must have the tech. I will try Roush, CCW and some others tomorrow.


I have 18"x9" all around on 235/50/18 and was contemplating a 275/35/18 Star Specs at $252 at Tire Rack. Toyos are on sale at $229 for 275/35/18 and only $179 for the 305/35/18!! Since it is $50 less per tire for the 305 right now, the extra saving could be spent on some inexpensive wheels. If I can find and fit a proper offset 10", I can have a dedicated track set with the 305s.

Something else to consider, which is a benefit of the Roush, CCW and OEM GT500 wheels is their ability to support big brake kits, e.g., Brembo, Wilwood, Stoptech. You may find a set of cheap wheels in the proper size and offset only to find out later that you can't upgrade your brakes for lack of spacing.

 

[marksti]

$179 for 305 r888?

Where?

Saleen knocksoffs or Steeda ultralites maybe for little $$$$


If your budgets alittle looser then try some Enkeis or the BBS race wheels from Ford racing or if your ready for the big leagues Forgeline, Jongbleods or CCWs