Really Stumped Needs Some Help

[gotnas]

I am having a serious problem with my 06 GT. I have owned fox body Mustang for a long time and have never had any trouble shooting them. But this 4.6 has me stumped. It keeps throwing the wrench light. It will start and immediately die. When I bought it and it already had an Edelbrock EForce on it. It is an early model too. I know that they had throttle body issues so I called them and told them what codes it was throwing and they sent me a new throttle body. This did not fix it. So my next step was to replace the TPS. I replace it and it fired right up and ran fine. Now a week later it has started giving me trouble again. I was out driving it and turn it off and it wouldn't start again and was throwing the wrench light again. Turn the key twice and it didn't do anything. So I took the key completely out and put it back in and it started right up and I was able to get it home. The wrench light did not come on again for the rest of the way home. I have stared it about a dozen times now and it will not do it again. These are the codes the code that I have pulled off of it. I am guess maybe a defective TPS? Any help will be greatly appreciated. I know my Windsor's pretty good but this is my first Modular and it has me stumped.


P0430
P0480
P0481
P2100
P2105
P2107
P2110

 

[avinaj80]

Well, the first 3 codes are a catalytic converter and cooling fan codes. The P2xxx codes are all throttle body related. IIRC, the eforce use harness extensions for the TB controls. I'd start there and make sure no wires are messed up. Make sure the contacts are clean and plugged in correctly. I would clear the codes and re load the tune also. It may very well be that the TB electronics have failed again, but start with the basics.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Sorry to hear you are having issues, but the car is at least telling you where it thinks the problems are. You may have multiple issues, possibly all unrelated. But get the TPS issues resolved first, as those are preventing you from driving it. Then if there are cooling fan circuit issues, those will need to be addressed to avoid overheating. The p0430, we can tackle that one later, as it is common with modified exhausts but won't stop the car from running properly.

+1 on checking the TPS wiring connections. Any wiring splice can be the source of a problem, so those would be suspect. A quick-check of basic throttle body operation is to have the air intake off so you can see the t/b, turn on the key, and have someone press the pedal in various positions and see if the t/b opens appropriately. Pedal-to-the-floor should fully open the tb, and then various amounts of closure as pedal is released.

 

[gotnas]

Well I got done checking the harness today and the extender harness is good but I did find two wires that were twisted together. Sticking out of the tape on the factory ford harness that plugs into the eforce harness. So I did a quick fixed and striped both of the wires and twisted them together really tight and then taped. I am currently out of shirk and solder. I started it up let it run for 10 minutes and get up to temp. Then started it several times. Took it for a spin and within a half of mile it was running stopped at the stop sign and it dies. Just like you turned the key off. Push it off the road and tried to start it several times and it would just start then die right away. Pulled out the tuner and read the codes same codes as before. Cleared the codes and tired start again and it die right away. Got out pulled the wires apart loosely twisted them together and it started so I quickly drove it back home. It is weird the wires that are twisted together are not the came color one is a yellow/whie to a grey wire and other is a yellow to a green wire. Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram? I don't know if this is my exact problem or not but I fell like it could be.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40

 

[702GT]

With any sensor extending if you don't have a OE style connector to OE style connector for the extension, I highly recommend doing so or solder the wires directly. The crimp type butt splices are good for stereo equipment, not sensors IMO. I'll solder anything gauge 20 and smaller wire. I've had TPS issues with a crimp butt connector I used for the 5v TPS wire when I had a window switch for my old N2O setup tapped in. That connector was the issue. Not sure if they just get loose over time but it threw all those P2+ codes when it would have its fit and throw the wrench light. Even the OE style connector can present with TPS issues if the contacts are dirty, or the wires have been slightly pulled away from the contacts inside the connector.

 

[gotnas]

I have ended up finding a problem with the extender harness to the throttle body motor you can wiggle it and the car will rev up then die. Ordered a new Ford locking plug for it and soldered it directly into the factory harness. Cutting off the connecting plugs and solder it wire to wire. I ended up cutting the other splices out of the factory harness and cutting the plug off the Edelbrock harness and soldering them directly together. So far I have driven it about 30-40 miles with no problems. Hope this solves my problem. Wanted to post just incase it does and someone has this problem.

 

[avinaj80]

Glad to hear it's made progress! Hopefully that is the fix. Enjoy it.

 

[thump_rrr]

Anything that is not soldered and heat shrink wrapped is destined for failure sooner or later.

 

[s8v4o]

Most if not all of the factory wiring harness is crimped. You just can't use some cheesedick crimper.

 

[eighty6gt]

My comment on soldering and crimping:

Watch out for mechanical problems. The soldering process makes a hard spot in the wire that is subject to vibration and fatigue. Laying flat somewhere you're probably fine.

Ford's official fix for wiring harnesses is a crimp style connection, specialized tools, and adhesive lined thermal shrink tubing.

 

[BruceH]

Most if not all of the factory wiring harness is crimped. You just can't use some cheesedick crimper.

My comment on soldering and crimping:

Watch out for mechanical problems. The soldering process makes a hard spot in the wire that is subject to vibration and fatigue. Laying flat somewhere you're probably fine.

Ford's official fix for wiring harnesses is a crimp style connection, specialized tools, and adhesive lined thermal shrink tubing.

FWIW most all airplane connections are crimped. The reason is it lasts longer and works just as well as solder provided the proper terminals, splices, and tools are used.

With that said I usually crimp and solder when working on my Mustang because I can't find the quality luggers and connections on the open market that we use for airplanes. The Ford splices are high quality, so is the moisture proof sleeving that comes with a Motorcraft connector.

 

[michael.konor]

^^^^ Red Splices for aircraft. But when it comes to my car, it's solder, tension loops, and heat shrink.