Rear break noise problem (brake)

[REDS197]

Check the axle. I know of a half dozen cars that had bent axles from the factory.

 

[luillo]

Check the axle. I know of a half dozen cars that had bent axles from the factory.

I will but I doubt it since I initially had the noise before I upgraded the rear end. I got all strange parts in there with 9" housings and still locking the brakes. I am pretty sure is the line but thanks I will check anyway when I get to swap the lines.

 

[luillo]

DAMN IT, replaced the rear brake lines today and the damn left side still getting hot. The left side caliper moves when the brake pedal is push but I drive for 15-20 min and is super hot compared to the right side and start making noise and vibration.

I decided to go to the shop that did the rear end and welded the 9" ends and explained the situation, they told me to bring the car to check the brakes but I could be the 9" wheel bearing slipping off and getting the rotor hot. They told me they had to tack weld the locking ring in the wheel bearings before on other cars.

Funny stuff I found was left side wheel is tight on lateral (side movement) and vertical movement too. So I think the bearing of the left side should be good.

But the right side has a very very small play, side to side and up and down so it might have a Bearing bad there but that side is free as far a brake binding. Right side also makes noise like if the rotor was warp but doesn't get hot when I drive.

At these point I will let them check it but I think is bearing related, all the brake area is been covered from lines to rotors.

Anybody has had a bad 9" rear end bearing bad causing the brakes to bind or make noise and vibration in the brakes?

 

[luillo]

I was just thinking about the brake system. If my calipers, flex hoses, parking brake are all good what else could be making a caliper to be tight or bind the brake pads? Also caliper spacing to flange and shims are good, the caliper has new sliding pins and are very well lubricated.

The only other thing I could think of is the ABS system but I have no light on the dash so I am assuming is working good. Could I have the ABS mechanical system not releasing one of my lines or could it be just the the shop said and the bearings are not good making the brakes bind?

I told them to go ahead and swap those bearings just in case anyways. Also I will be checking the banjo bolts in detail to make sure it has good distance clearance and is not too long making the caliper bind the pads against the rotor on the left side.

 

[bullitt boy]

axle tube welded slightly crooked ?

 

[luillo]

axle tube welded slightly crooked ?

Maybe, but i was thinking that i forgot to check on something. i swap the left side rotor and pads to check is anything change and it did. i had squeaking noise coming from the rear right brakes and it disappeared when i swap the parts. Then the humming and vibration started like a day after.

I have not swapped the brake brackets yet. I do it will tomorrow and see what happens, if my right side wheel is hard to turn then i will assume the brackets are bent which could be possible due to the many time i did a burnouts at the track without a line lock.

i post my findings later....

 

[wbt]

Make sure you have the caliper piston clocked properly. The pads have a tit that fit's into a recess on the piston. I have seen it happen before.

 

[luillo]

Make sure you have the caliper piston clocked properly. The pads have a tit that fit's into a recess on the piston. I have seen it happen before.

No problems there I used the tool to retract them and I did align the tit in the slot.

 

[luillo]

Decided to inspect the brakes one more time and here is what i found and what i think could be the problem.

Left side brakes sticking heavy/Gets hot:


- Outboard Pad Heavy contact on the bottom area to the rear of the pad
- Inboard Pad Light contact on the bottom area to the front of the pad

Left pad is the Outboard pad i refer.


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=669232453142574&set=a.666994656699687.1073741834.100001674764436&type=1&theater

These pad is the outboard pad of the left side of the car


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=669234103142409&set=a.666994656699687.1073741834.100001674764436&type=1&theater

Bottom pad is the outboard in the left side of the car


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=669238069808679&set=a.666994656699687.1073741834.100001674764436&type=1&theater




Right Side Brakes makes howling noise but is not getting hot like left side:


- Outboard pad has heavy contact on the bottom area front and back of the pad
- Inboard pad has very little contact in the bottom of the pad in the front and back tips

Right pad is the outboard pad i refer.


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=669235146475638&set=a.666994656699687.1073741834.100001674764436&type=1&theater

These pad is the outboard pad on the right side of the car

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=669235973142222&set=a.666994656699687.1073741834.100001674764436&type=1&theater

These is the inboard pad on the right side of the car

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=669236593142160&set=a.666994656699687.1073741834.100001674764436&type=1&theater

 

[luillo]

With all that info i started looking at more things i found the left side caliper bracket does not have an even gap between the rotor and the bracket.

The top of the bracket is very close to the top of the rotor. The inboard (Right side of the bracket) is very close to the rotor.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=669240953141724&set=a.666994656699687.1073741834.100001674764436&type=1&theater

Top of the rotor to the bracket extremely close

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=669242616474891&set=a.666994656699687.1073741834.100001674764436&type=1&theater

The bottom of the bracket looks to have good gap on both sides.
______________________________________________________________________________________________




The Right side caliper bracket looks to have even gap between the bracket and the rotor on the top and bottom.

Right side rotor to caliper bracket gap normal
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=669243389808147&set=a.666994656699687.1073741834.100001674764436&type=1&theater

Right side rotor to caliper bracket gap normal on both sides.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=669244126474740&set=a.666994656699687.1073741834.100001674764436&type=1&theater

 

[luillo]

The only thing that i could do was to swap the right side bracket to the left side and see if it looked different and then test the rotation. I did the swap, only the caliper brackets and it looks the same.

Same gaps as before so it must be the bracket in the axle that holds the caliper bracket.

my only other possible cause i think should be the axle shafts not been centered.

The left shaft could be tilted out from the bottom area and a little bit inboard on the front area at the same time, making heavy contact in the outboard pad at the lower rear area of the pad and light contact on the inboard pad by the front bottom of the pad.

The right shaft tilted out from the bottom making the outboard pad contact heavy in the bottom area.

 

[luillo]

So i went and bought a cheap non contact infrared thermometer to check temp better and here is the average temp in the rotors.

From Home Depot to Home about 20 min drive:

Front Left--90F Front Right-- 100.3F

Rear Left--71.6F Rear Right--71.6F

I lightly touch the rear rotors and almost feel the same temp. is almost like swapping the caliper brackets improved the situation even the brackets still looks the same way as before and the left wheel still harder to turn than the right wheel.

Drove the car another 10-15 min and check again:

Front Left-- 77F Front Right--86F

Rear Left-- 91F Rear Right-- 89F

Weather might be helping the situation but left rear side still hotter.

 

[luillo]

Today I took off the left tire out and check the lateral and radial runout on the rotor then on the axle flange.

DAMN!!!!!

Rotor:

Lateral. 15
Radial. 25

Axle Flange:

Lateral. 11
Radial. 8

For sure something is wrong with the 9" housing I got welded because now I have a bearing leaking too. I think That explain why that caliper bracket is so close to the rotor and the vibration.

I did not check the other side but I will let the shop fix their shit next week. I hope I don't have to look for new axles now.

 

[bullitt boy]

Updates?

 

[luillo]

Updates?

The car is in the shop been checked. They told me if the flange in the axle have little runout they can fix it but they will check everything that might be causing the problem.

 

[bullitt boy]

Good deal !! Subscribed.

 

[luillo]

Got the car back but is not fixed yet, the shop ordered an axle reluctor ring and brake caliper bracket-plate. They put the car in the lift and ran the rear wheels and found right side wabeling, they thought it was the wheel took it off and still does the same so they check the axle and for it to be bent.

Funny their findings vs mine.

My findings:

-I had my LEFT rear brakes getting hot and the wheel was hard to run.
-I found radial and lateral runout on the left rotor and on the axle flange.
-Left rear bearing leaking.

-RIGHT rear brakes colder than the left brakes but I the temp was almost as the front brakes which I think the front should be hotter than the rear at all time.
-RIGHT rear wheel rotate easier than LEFT but it seems to bind the brakes like a wable; possible lateral runout on the axle flange but never bother to check it due to the left side having the most binding problem.
-RIGHT rear making howling noise coming for brake binding.
_______________________________________________________

The shop findings:

-LEFT rear bearing falling apart broken; Possible cause for wheel rotation been hard and the brakes binding.
-RIHGT axle bent; possible cause for brake binding and some of my vibration at high speed and maybe a few other noises I have in the car.

I ask them what could cause all those problems and they told me they will look into it in more detail once all the parts arrive and are installed so they can put the car in the lift again and verify if anything else is causing the damage or if I should take it easier in the 60' mark.LOL

After all that I will check the right side runout to see if it is worst than the left side because now I am very curious why they said right is bent and not the left.

They told me the bearing in the left could be the cause of the brake binding but the axle look good and maybe that is why I saw it in the dial indicator wabeling.

For that to be true I think the right side should be equal or worst on the dial indicator then.

 

[bullitt boy]

damn , never easy is it ? I sure hope the repairs fix the issue seems like you've been chasing this for more then a month now.

 

[luillo]

damn , never easy is it ? I sure hope the repairs fix the issue seems like you've been chasing this for more then a month now.

More than a a year and half. I got the work done in that rear end in 2011 and notice a noise that end up been the trutrac natural clunking noise but I was thinking it was the brakes or the transmission.

Then race the car, two passes and the transmission broke so I had to go home. I had 30 days to PCS to Mountain Home Idaho and the noise got worst so I figure it was the transmission, then I got deployed and then order back to kansas.

So as you can see I haven't had any time to actually look into it until now. I am glad I have real causes now and not suspicions of broken thinks I could think of. I am sure all those noises and vibrations except the trutrac clunking in decel will be fixed these time or I will burn the damn thing. Hahahah...

 

[bullitt boy]

Damn , just lift up the antenna and slide a new car under it. Glad you have it on the run now.