AztroRover

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Alright, I also own a Mercedes and a Range Rover. I do all the oil changes on them and my Mustang. One thing I notice is the Mustang is "dirtier" then the Euros. They all get 5K oil changes, same oil Mobil 1 - Full Synthetic from Costco and all get genuine filters all have similar mileage. The issue is the Mustangs oil gets dirt black quick, the other cars almost stay clear till the 5K. Each weekend I check and top off fluids on all cars. Just in the wipe of the dipstick gives me clear oil on the euros and dirt black on the Mustang no matter the age of the oil. I have decided to do 3 oil changes on the mustang with just a week apart about 150ish miles between the "rinses". Aside from the "environmental impact' - BTW, I have a V8, all-wheel drive, 12 MPG Range Rover - obviously its not a big concern. Will the rinse work? - I don't know, but gonna try. Opinions, suggestions, thoughts ? Thanks.
 

gbstang

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Oil is never "Dirty" Hate that description, but I understand there is a lack of a better term.. What you are seeing is carbon, it is a by product of the combustion process. There are alot of reasons you have "Dirtier" oil on one vehicle over another. Different engines burn fuel more efficiently than others, driving style between vehicles (I don't drive my truck the way I drive my Shelby) city driving vs highway, allowing the car to reach operating temp before driving it. Then there is the difference in the Octane used.. There are many variables that would cause carbon in the oil, you need to really look at all of those to understand why..

You should see the oil in a diesel 300 miles after it has changed :angry1: but have no fear, you could take a sample and send it off for analysis and get a better idea of what is going on there to support what I have already said. Do you use a good quality filter? WIX or Motorcraft are decent filters, Fram is garbage...
It really is complicated isn't it :headscratch:

Cheers!:beerchug3:
 

gbstang

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Oh, don't get me started on the emissions (EGR etc) again, more carbon for the engine.. Those three vehicles have different EGR systems. Since your Mustang is US spec. and the climate lie has been sucked up by the ignorant, your car has stricter emissions than alot of other cars in other countries.
 

AztroRover

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Maybe I am just an old dude, 50 next year, and since all my cars are running tip top. It's possible I am finding ways to get dirty. My engines are spotless btw, yes I wipe clean inside the wheel arches and inside/backside of my rims/tires - I know, I know, -there are meds I should be on. All the oil filters on all cars are manufactures brand everything, in the Mustang, it gets motorcraft filters, belts, even the battery, I work a block away from the dealership, they know my name. - again, I am not well, I know.
 

gbstang

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LOL, its ok, I am 60 and my cars are spotless--all the time! Now if I had a GM, my whole life would be spent chasing oil leaks, rust and broken plastic interior parts, no, I am too old for that!
 

09brian0

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Pull a valve cover ,have a look , if it’s getting baked on tarnish or worse use engine oil flush on the day u change your oil. Best.
 

AztroRover

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LOL, it's ok, I am 60 and my cars are spotless--all the time! Now if I had a GM, my whole life would be spent chasing oil leaks, rust and broken plastic interior parts, no, I am too old for that!

That's right a GM wouldn't leave you time to clean the car, I agree you'd just be fixing it all the time.
 

AztroRover

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Pull a valve cover ,have a look , if it’s getting baked on tarnish or worse use engine oil flush on the day u change your oil. Best.

Had the top valve seals done earlier this year, mechanic did note -all looked well. I worry the guck is below. I do pour new oil till it comes clean at oil changes then put the drain bolt on, but still I fear that's not very through in pushing out the old residue towards the bottom. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

eighty6gt

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I just bought 2x cans of gm crankcase cleaner to use on my old rotten junkyard 6.0 LS.
s-l300.jpg
APPLICATION Varnish, sludge and thickened engine oil in the crankcase and lubrication system can result in sticking hydraulic lifters, restricted lubricant supply, partial seizure between piston and cylinder walls, crankshaft and camshaft journals and bearings. This may result in cranking overload, scoring or total seizure of the engine. PERFORMANCE • will thin thickened oil • will remove sludge and varnish build-up throughout the lubrication system so that it can be drained with the used oil •contains a proven antiwear and extreme pressure additive to protect critical bearing areas and cylinder walls during flushing process APPLICATION Add entire content of the container to the engine oil just before draining. If the dipstick shows full, sufficient oil should be removed. Allow the engine to run at idle for 20-30 minutes. Drain the crankcase of oil, replace the oil filter and recharge the crankcase with new motor oil as recommended by the manufacturer. CHARACTERISTICS A proprietary blend of solvents, detergents, dispersants and penetrants that will effectively remove oil contaminants from the internal combustion engine. Specific Gravity, @ 15ο C: 1.016 Physical State: Liquid Flash Point (TOC): 30ο C NFPA Flammability: Combustible Liquid Class II VOC (%, w/w): 49 OEM Approved

Mixture: Other Names Lubricating oils (petroleum), hydrotreated spent 64742-58-1 40-70 Stoddard solvent 8052-41-3 15-40 n-Nonane 111-84-2 1-5 Dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether 34590-94-8 1-5 1,2,4-Trimethylbenzene 95-63-6 1-5 Ethylbenzene 100-41-4 0.1-1.0 Xylene (mixed isomers) 1330-20-7 0.1-1.0 Naphthalene 91-20-3 0.1-1.0
 

Pentalab

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I just bought 2x cans of gm crankcase cleaner to use on my old rotten junkyard 6.0 LS.
View attachment 84438
APPLICATION Varnish, sludge and thickened engine oil in the crankcase and lubrication system can result in sticking hydraulic lifters, restricted lubricant supply, partial seizure between piston and cylinder walls, crankshaft and camshaft journals and bearings. This may result in cranking overload, scoring or total seizure of the engine. PERFORMANCE • will thin thickened oil • will remove sludge and varnish build-up throughout the lubrication system so that it can be drained with the used oil •contains a proven antiwear and extreme pressure additive to protect critical bearing areas and cylinder walls during flushing process APPLICATION Add entire content of the container to the engine oil just before draining. If the dipstick shows full, sufficient oil should be removed. Allow the engine to run at idle for 20-30 minutes. Drain the crankcase of oil, replace the oil filter and recharge the crankcase with new motor oil as recommended by the manufacturer. CHARACTERISTICS A proprietary blend of solvents, detergents, dispersants and penetrants that will effectively remove oil contaminants from the internal combustion engine. Specific Gravity, @ 15ο C: 1.016 Physical State: Liquid Flash Point (TOC): 30ο C NFPA Flammability: Combustible Liquid Class II VOC (%, w/w): 49 OEM Approved

Mixture: Other Names Lubricating oils (petroleum), hydrotreated spent 64742-58-1 40-70 Stoddard solvent 8052-41-3 15-40 n-Nonane 111-84-2 1-5 Dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether 34590-94-8 1-5 1,2,4-Trimethylbenzene 95-63-6 1-5 Ethylbenzene 100-41-4 0.1-1.0 Xylene (mixed isomers) 1330-20-7 0.1-1.0 Naphthalene 91-20-3 0.1-1.0

Is it legal in the state of California ? Will it cause birth defects?
 

AztroRover

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Oh geez, well this weekend I will start project "Dirty Little wHorse" - I mean who doesn't want a clean wHorse, right?!?! -Ha... will keep posting as the project progresses. Ultimately I hope to be able to stick it in, and pull out, -the dipstick, clean(er) every-time. At least I will know I tried my best to get my Dirty Little wHorse -fianlly clean, 3 weekends of this is all - I promise, -Then OCD/Tweeker clean something else.
 

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