Gabe

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Alright, I also own a Mercedes and a Range Rover. I do all the oil changes on them and my Mustang. One thing I notice is the Mustang is "dirtier" then the Euros. They all get 5K oil changes, same oil Mobil 1 - Full Synthetic from Costco and all get genuine filters all have similar mileage. The issue is the Mustangs oil gets dirt black quick, the other cars almost stay clear till the 5K. Each weekend I check and top off fluids on all cars. Just in the wipe of the dipstick gives me clear oil on the euros and dirt black on the Mustang no matter the age of the oil. I have decided to do 3 oil changes on the mustang with just a week apart about 150ish miles between the "rinses". Aside from the "environmental impact' - BTW, I have a V8, all-wheel drive, 12 MPG Range Rover - obviously its not a big concern. Will the rinse work? - I don't know, but gonna try. Opinions, suggestions, thoughts ? Thanks.


Well, Mobil 1 hasn't been a "real" synthetic in quite some time, it is one of the lesser-quality oils on the market these days, mostly getting by on their name and marketing.

Get a quality oil in there like Amsoil or something from BND Automotive, a company that does custom blended oils/fluids. I've used both and Amsoil is a close second to the BND stuff, which was still see-through a few thousand miles after going in.

Side note: on my '07 Charger 5.7 when I switched to Mobil 1, I started losing about a quart every thousand miles or so.
Switched to a BND Automotive custom blend and my oil consumption went away.
I'll never use or recommend Mobil 1.
 

Pentalab

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Well, Mobil 1 hasn't been a "real" synthetic in quite some time, it is one of the lesser-quality oils on the market these days, mostly getting by on their name and marketing.

Get a quality oil in there like Amsoil or something from BND Automotive, a company that does custom blended oils/fluids. I've used both and Amsoil is a close second to the BND stuff, which was still see-through a few thousand miles after going in.

Side note: on my '07 Charger 5.7 when I switched to Mobil 1, I started losing about a quart every thousand miles or so.
Switched to a BND Automotive custom blend and my oil consumption went away.
I'll never use or recommend Mobil 1.
Losing 1 quart every 1000 miles, WTF ?
 

Flusher

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What would that test look like?

You would use a tool like this, to blow compressed air into the cylinders (https://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-64918.html).

The amount of leakage is indicated on the gauges. Leakage shouldn't exceed 15%.

Listen for the location of leaking compressed air. Hissing from the oil cap would indicate rings not sealing. Hissing from the throttle body would indicate intake valves not sealing. Hissing from the exhaust would indicate exhaust valves not sealing.

Rings not sealing would be consistent with carbon contamination from combustion byproducts.

I understand the desire to push out oil changes, but wear is a slippery slope. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
 

gbstang

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Pulling out a dipstick that is dirty, even after you change the oil is normal... The dirty oil is up in the tube, you drain the pan and put in oil, but you will still have dirty oil on the stick.. If you really want to see how your oil is after a drain and fill, get a little funnel, and pour about a half quart down the dipstick pipe to flush that as well.. Now when you check the oil it should look clean after your oil change.

Now if your oil is excessively black, either you are not running a synthetic, or you are running a synthetic blend. These motors run very clean when you use a full synthetic, sure the oil on the stick will be dark but the engine should never look like this:

I have had many modulars, worked on a few too, they never look bad inside when the oil is changed regularly and the correct oil is used..engine-sludge.jpg
 

gbstang

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Engine flush, I would never---EVER recommend an engine flush---did I say ever? I would completely tear down an engine first and put them in a steam bath before a flush..
Your wondering why? Well, think of this.. For a flush to work, it must break down that caked on oil that usually means that chemical has the opposite characteristics of oil, that being that they have no lubricating properties, what do you think having diluted oil will do to your main bearings?

Look, if you want to "Clean out" your engine, get a motor oil that uses or is known to have good detergents! it will gradually clean your motor over time.

We had a Galaxy with a 390, the previous owner used SH%t oil and my dad flushed it for a few hours as per the instructions,,threw a rod that day. The bearings were wiped down to the bronze..
 

eighty6gt

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Everything has its place, someone did something wrong if a flush burned through bearings. Engine was already on the way out. Cleetus has done some ridiculous stuff - he ran a crown vic on straight diesel and it took _forever_ to blow up, still had oil pressure on start up. 15% stoddard in a full bath of decent oil won't do much, but it won't do damage, either. I'm doing this on a lark. $16 for the solvent (it does cause cancer, but so does breathing and eating microplastics,) the engine is as I said, junkyard of all junkyard quality. How will I even know anything happened? Who cares.

The point about detergent oil is sound.

The final word is, on modern, tight engines such as these with good EFI and good, functioning PCV systems your crankcase will stay clean. I follow the factory recommended intervals and the inside of my engine wasn't even stained bronze @~80k miles (while improving conrods to boss 302 spec.) Mobil 1. Don't waste your money.
 

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