Rockford Fosgate 8" subwoofer door BUILD THREAD

TotoGT06

forum member
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Posts
1,303
Reaction score
1
Location
SE Wisconsin
So my audio seems to be getting softer or Im becoming def so Ive decided to just make things louder :) This thread is so others wanting to upgrade their door subwoofer with something too deep can do the same.

I chose the P2D2 Rockford Fosgate 8" subs for their style and power. I did hope they wouldnt take much modification but it turns out they do need a lot of modding. For now I am not wiring them to the shaker500 amps but I will be powering them with a separate amp later when the money is available.

I will post more pictures as the build goes on

20150716_172548_zpslo5okt7u.jpg


20150716_180455_zpskmobktwq.jpg


20150716_180501_zpsqpeerng5.jpg


20150716_180306_zpsssylp8fe.jpg
 

TotoGT06

forum member
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Posts
1,303
Reaction score
1
Location
SE Wisconsin
It is touching the window clamp now but once i get a small spacer in it i should be set. I plan on using the original pieces of plastic I cut off, plastic welding it with extra pieces from my shop. Then im going to add a coat of 3M 4240 with mesh on the inside and outside to strengthen and seal it. I work in a body shop so Im very experienced with plastic work. Itll have to be supported somehow since these subs are much heavier than the stockers

I like your trim rings, the stock look really worked out well
 
Last edited:

Wicked GT

OCD with ADD...
Joined
Apr 24, 2011
Posts
7,487
Reaction score
4
Location
Omaha, NE
Glad to hear you have a plan and the tools/knowledge to do it correctly! The only other thing to keep in mind is the enclosure volume of the door cavity versus what the sub needs for optimal sound. Just hate to see you do all the work and then have it not sound the way it should.
 

TotoGT06

forum member
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Posts
1,303
Reaction score
1
Location
SE Wisconsin
Yea once i get the backside finished im going to find the volume andits currently at and expand where i need to. First its gotta fit
 

palanza7

forum member
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Posts
648
Reaction score
16
Hate to tell u but I doubt ur going to get enough sealed volume back there for that thing. Prob going to need half a cube or even more. Idk man going to be rough.
 

jpf150

Junior Member
Joined
May 18, 2015
Posts
40
Reaction score
0
Definitely not my first choice for the doors, but I admire the work! I'll be interested to see the results. And to palanza7, I'm not sure on the specs of the woofer, but from what I gather from a few sources the door enclosure is already around >.4 cubes. Oh and get an amp on them once you get them in. The stock amps are not impressive at all.

Edit: Just looked up the specs. Not really feeling like modeling it, but the recommended range is usually spot on. Max sealed is .3, so once you build it out, measure for volume, and factor in how much space the sub takes up, if there is more room that is ok and if you want to lessen the amount of airspace that is easier than adding to it.
 
Last edited:

palanza7

forum member
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Posts
648
Reaction score
16
Definitely not my first choice for the doors, but I admire the work! I'll be interested to see the results. And to palanza7, I'm not sure on the specs of the woofer, but from what I gather from a few sources the door enclosure is already around >.4 cubes. Oh and get an amp on them once you get them in. The stock amps are not impressive at all.

Edit: Just looked up the specs. Not really feeling like modeling it, but the recommended range is usually spot on. Max sealed is .3, so once you build it out, measure for volume, and factor in how much space the sub takes up, if there is more room that is ok and if you want to lessen the amount of airspace that is easier than adding to it.

yeah but how on earth is he going to seal that space off well inside the door? idk about that lol
 

BadHabit2Break

forum member
Joined
Jan 7, 2011
Posts
5,466
Reaction score
1
Location
Houston, TX
yeah but how on earth is he going to seal that space off well inside the door? idk about that lol

Lots of this....

liquid-nails-dry-time-lh4bhwwh.jpg


But for real though. My non Shelby Kicker door subs do just fine on the OEM amp.

You could get one of the RF amps that are the size of your wallet and drive those RF subs with no problems.
 

jpf150

Junior Member
Joined
May 18, 2015
Posts
40
Reaction score
0
He works in a body shop and said he is going to plastic weld. Personally I would fiberglass it, but any way works as long as it is easy for you to do. You'd be amazed at what an actual amp will do if you gave it a try. The stock amps are basically chip amps like they use in headunits.
 

TotoGT06

forum member
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Posts
1,303
Reaction score
1
Location
SE Wisconsin
Ya i dont want to use the stock amps, to many chances of blowing them. Yes i can seal it off and i wouldnt use a different material other than fiberglass to close off plastic, they dont flex the same and can separate. It may work to begin with but eventually will separate and rattle. It will be plastic welded and reinforced with my plastic materials at work since they fuse together very well. No liquid nails, or expanding foam

Recommended volume rang is .2-.3 cu ft with the speaker displacing at .042 cu ft. My problem may come down to too much space and ill have to block off some of it. The doors sub box extends to the whole bottom of the door, not just where the sub goes in.

Trust me fellas Ive done this work before and I always go to spec with any of the aspects

I do have a mono amp in mind for this
 
Last edited:

jpf150

Junior Member
Joined
May 18, 2015
Posts
40
Reaction score
0
The only reason I would use fiberglass is because I have no experience with plastic welding, lol. If you end up with to much space, you can use duct seal to take up some room. The good thing about it as well is that it is cheap and it adds weight. One of the most important techniques in sound deadening is adding weight so it has an advantage there to.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_13591-1781-DS-110_0__?productId=4595233

I don't work in a body shop or anything, but have done enough research, building, conversing with a lot of smart people, and playing around with car audio that if you need any help just let me know. I'm actually putting together a system in my mustang right now but it won't be done for a few months. If you'd like some audio forums to check out as well I can do that too.

I know you're on the right track and can't wait to see how it turns out man!
 

TotoGT06

forum member
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Posts
1,303
Reaction score
1
Location
SE Wisconsin
Thanks ya im pretty well skilled with audio builds, check out my trunk build in this forum. Ya fiberglass is good for those not trained in plastic work. I did get it in and it fits great and doesnt hit the window! Ill post more pics when i get a chance
 

jpf150

Junior Member
Joined
May 18, 2015
Posts
40
Reaction score
0
Will do! I'll post mine up on here once I get it done. I've started a thread on diyma and another forum about it but it's gonna take a bit to get done. Fiberglass, when implemented right will work well with plastic. But I am not sure about subs, since the vibration is greater. I've had great luck binding fiberglass to plastic when doing pillars for tweeters and mids.
 

bigwilly43729

I do stupid shit, a lot
S197 Team Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Posts
6,751
Reaction score
13
Location
Oklahoma: Not terrible
Looking good OP! I did this in my 05 and it was amazingly easy. Didn't use that exact sub, but I used another RF 8". Minimal cutting in the back and I just formed some ABS around the holes and sealed it off with silicone. Worked great.
 

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top