^^which means your converter is too tight, which makes complete sense if you still have the stock converter.
My self and the OP both had the same results. I ran consistent 13.0s with stock tires, 13.2s with hoosier 28" slicks and 13.1s on 26" MT ET streets. It would go quicker spinning a bit off the line and getting the RPMs up then sticking with the good tires.
^Me too. Thought when you went DR's, the car would be quicker. Better 60' and quarter mile times. Unless I should have went with some DR's for my everyday wheels? IDK Think the only thing I should do is wait for the weather to cool down and then go out and try again. Then go from there depending on how my times go.
Running the same height tire (MT 26in) and a Procal tune in my 12 auto I get pretty consistent 1.85-1.90. I stall the car until it almost pushes through the lights and it seems to work well enough on the stock converter. Did you change the tire size in the tune? I know cody doesn't like to unlock options in his tunes, so it may not be an option for you until you ask for it..
I ran at NPR yesterday during the day, same deal. I went 12.477, 12.476, 12.475 all at 113 in three runs. I have a damn bracket car. (Procal, airaid, o/r x, driveshaft, radials). DA was around 2300.
Procal also adds a bunch of torque down low, so that helps you get out of the hole...
Procal claims its biggest torque gains right off idle, which is right where you are stalling to. Hence my comment. I never commented on anything else, so I don't know why you are bringing any of that up.
You made a declarative statement (which seemed to dismiss my evidence) which was false. I gave you the reasons why. I know how much it gained, I brought it to the dyno. Biggest gain was where the cursor is, around 4400.
Running the same height tire (MT 26in) and a Procal tune in my 12 auto I get pretty consistent 1.85-1.90. I stall the car until it almost pushes through the lights and it seems to work well enough on the stock converter. Did you change the tire size in the tune? I know cody doesn't like to unlock options in his tunes, so it may not be an option for you until you ask for it..
I ran at NPR yesterday during the day, same deal. I went 12.477, 12.476, 12.475 all at 113 in three runs. I have a damn bracket car. (Procal, airaid, o/r x, driveshaft, radials). DA was around 2300.
Isn't tire size in a tune just for speedo calibration??
Ah hey man how's it going?! No Cody's tunes are locked down. I see you're not running cats and have a DS. So I'm sure those helped with your times. Had one on my 07' and would like one on my 12'. A driveshaft would probably be my last legitimate mod to the car. I really want this car to hit 11.9 with what it has now, in the right weather of course.
Oh btw, how about that fan switch link now that I got ya on here?!
Yea I'm pretty sure thats all its for. Don't think that would of helped with anything but I'm open to hear anyone else's thoughts.
In the auto it would also effect shift points. Car shifts at RPM or MPH, whichever comes first. So if you had a shorter tire it could start short shifting.
To answer the thread question- NO
U need a coverter to launch harder
As to the burnout, 55-60 MPH for 4-5 seconds should be all u need
In the auto it would also effect shift points. Car shifts at RPM or MPH, whichever comes first. So if you had a shorter tire it could start short shifting.
I wish the o/r x made power, dyno'd the car before/after. NO gain on the frpp tune. Did a KAM reset, cooled the car down, etc. Nothing, which leads me to believe the DS was where the ET/MPH came from.
The fan relay jumper kit I use is here.
http://www.ipatools.com/9036.html One of the larger jumpers works on the 2010-2013. The smaller relay jumper works on the 05-09's. Sorry it took so long!
Exactly. I change the setting every time I put the MT's on the car.
try again... the true answer to the question
such thing as to much traction?
is yes....
in his case there are some changes to be made to help him out such as gears and coverter... but a converter is matched to things like cam specs gears power band of the car. while yes you can make tweaks in it to tighten on loosen to get it where you need it you loosen it to much to get it to hit hard it will kill you on the top end. if you tighten it to soften the 60foot youll pick up out the back.
take the race car for example... in the fall on slicks at MIR the car will blow the tires off. and this is on a 28x10.50W. sounds like to little traction right? WRONG! the track actually to tight and drags the front of the car back down and unloads the rear tires. can it be fixed? yes... we need to make adjustments in thinks like air pressure to allow the car to hook less to actually go faster.
so the answer to the question is yes there is a such thing as having to much traction... BUT the OP has things he can change that will allow him to over come his issue he has here since things arent set up correctly
/\ in a thread like this about a street car, I prefer the KISS principle, you're talking about a race car.
Thank you for that post and providing an example. I'm more of a visual person. Would you be able to tell me what YOU think would be some things to change on my setup to get it to where I want or that may help with the issue I'm having?