Shorty headers

[Neek]

Thank you in advance for your help! new to this whole maintenance thing I’m in the process of replacing my transmission and clutch I’m trying to install shorty headers and I was just wondering if anyone knew if I could jack up my engine without having my transmission attached seeing as I have more room with my transmission out I might as well knock two birds out with one stone just not sure if taking off the motor mounts without that counter balance of the transmission would be dangerous or if anyone had any advice on what I should do

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

With the transmission out, you'll need to support the back of the engine with a jack stand in order to raise the front of the engine safely.

 

[Neek]

Alright bet thank you

 

[DieHarder]

Thank you in advance for your help! new to this whole maintenance thing I’m in the process of replacing my transmission and clutch I’m trying to install shorty headers and I was just wondering if anyone knew if I could jack up my engine without having my transmission attached seeing as I have more room with my transmission out I might as well knock two birds out with one stone just not sure if taking off the motor mounts without that counter balance of the transmission would be dangerous or if anyone had any advice on what I should do

Highly, recommend getting a friend (make it a couple of friends) to help who have done this kind of work or just worked on cars in general.

At the very least read up on the procedures for the job you're attempting and continue to ask questions Before doing anything to the car. For the procedures you want to do many on this forum can probably tell you the easiest, quickest and safest method to get what you want done.

Here's an online manual: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=0

When jacking up the engine/trans be careful of the wiring that runs down to the transmission. Lots of stories/experience out there about pinching/damaging that wiring. Don't cause yourself headaches if you can avoid it.

Regarding shorty headers - why are you adding them? Many would say they're Not worth the money and hassle for the negligible performance gain (+5 - 10hp?) they provide. Better to install full headers or just leave stock. Good luck.

 

[JC SSP]

My .02 cents. Replace the clutch & pressure plate, throw out bearing, etc. Put the transmission back in and then do the headers.

 

[StockishS197]

My .02 cents. Replace the clutch & pressure plate, throw out bearing, etc. Put the transmission back in and then do the headers.

+1. Trans out doesn’t really do much to save effort with the header install and may complicate things.

 

[Pentalab]

Regarding shorty headers - why are you adding them? Many would say they're Not worth the money and hassle for the negligible performance gain (+5 - 10hp?) they provide. Better to install full headers or just leave stock. Good luck.

This above. Shorty headers, imo, is a wasted effort. LT's made a huge difference on my 2010 GT, blatantly obvious.

 

[Samos3]

Highly, recommend getting a friend (make it a couple of friends) to help who have done this kind of work or just worked on cars in general.

At the very least read up on the procedures for the job you're attempting and continue to ask questions Before doing anything to the car. For the procedures you want to do many on this forum can probably tell you the easiest, quickest and safest method to get what you want done.

Here's an online manual: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=0

When jacking up the engine/trans be careful of the wiring that runs down to the transmission. Lots of stories/experience out there about pinching/damaging that wiring. Don't cause yourself headaches if you can avoid it.

Regarding shorty headers - why are you adding them? Many would say they're Not worth the money and hassle for the negligible performance gain (+5 - 10hp?) they provide. Better to install full headers or just leave stock. Good luck.

Definitely listen to people about safety concerns if you aren't attempting something carefully described in the factory manual. That would be a painful, embarrassing way to get your hand caught if the motor shifts.

I can see putting shorties in if you are already in there and get them cheap enough. Might not get much performance, but they look better than the stock manifolds and no tuning required.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Adding tubular headers can raise the engine compartment temperature substantially. Especially in city traffic where airflow under the hood is low. Something to think about if you are installing headers for looks or performance.

 

[GriffX]

What I noticed that the headers have round shape inlets at the flange despite the cylinder head has some kind of oval shape. Doesn't this mismatch costs performance?

EDIT: https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/headers_and_exhaust_manifolds/shorty/parts/70303304-RHKR

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

What I noticed that the headers have round shape inlets at the flange

Mine have D shaped runners at the flange:

 

[JC SSP]

Looks just like my BBK shorties.

 

[Samos3]

What about access to other components? They look like they take up a bunch more room.
Is the heat an issue with the fuel line coming up where it does?

 

[Neek]

Highly, recommend getting a friend (make it a couple of friends) to help who have done this kind of work or just worked on cars in general.

At the very least read up on the procedures for the job you're attempting and continue to ask questions Before doing anything to the car. For the procedures you want to do many on this forum can probably tell you the easiest, quickest and safest method to get what you want done.

Here's an online manual: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=0

When jacking up the engine/trans be careful of the wiring that runs down to the transmission. Lots of stories/experience out there about pinching/damaging that wiring. Don't cause yourself headaches if you can avoid it.

Regarding shorty headers - why are you adding them? Many would say they're Not worth the money and hassle for the negligible performance gain (+5 - 10hp?) they provide. Better to install full headers or just leave stock. Good luck.

I’m adding shorty’s cause I plan on going turbo eventually when I get a spare short block there the shorty’s that came With my on 3 kit also I got stage two cams and I think shorties will make me get a little more lope

 

[Neek]

I don’t want to go long tubes due to me intending to turbo eventually and I can’t find long tubes under 1k

 

[StockishS197]

What I noticed that the headers have round shape inlets at the flange despite the cylinder head has some kind of oval shape. Doesn't this mismatch costs performance?

EDIT: https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/headers_and_exhaust_manifolds/shorty/parts/70303304-RHKR

Most LTs for these cars have round ports, not the oval shape so I don’t think it’s an issue.

 

[Midlife Crises]

What I noticed that the headers have round shape inlets at the flange despite the cylinder head has some kind of oval shape. Doesn't this mismatch costs performance?

EDIT: https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/headers_and_exhaust_manifolds/shorty/parts/70303304-RHKR

The round tube header meeting the “D” shaped port is an anti-reversion trick from many decades ago. It is useful in reducing carburetor standoff. It does not hurt the exhaust flow to any great extent.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

What about access to other components? They look like they take up a bunch more room.
Is the heat an issue with the fuel line coming up where it does?

It's pretty tight in there but heat hasn't been an issue. If anything the engine bay seems a little cooler. Those stainless steel headers lose heat faster than the cast iron manifolds.

 

[Autokyrios]

Ditto on heat not being that bad. I put in shorty headers, didn't get them coated, and was worried about it, but haven't had any issues. Seems every exhaust maker has differences so mileage may vary.

Getting shorty headers in is pretty easy. Driver side is really just the steering column to move, and the passenger side is the starter (and trans cooler lines if you have an auto, although I didn't have to move mine out of the way).
I just used a shock-tower engine hoist to hold the engine up, took off one motor mount at a time for additional clearance, and they went in without issue. Hardest part is getting a torque wrench to all the bolts. Used locking header bolts which were a little fiddly to get on but small price for never having to worry about bolt creep.

Honestly the worst part about putting headers on is dealing with the passenger-side oxy sensor and the flange bolts. I want to strangle whoever thought it was great to put the sensor plug in such a horrible location. Honestly, they couldn't kick the dongle out 6-inches...?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Honestly the worst part about putting headers on is dealing with the passenger-side oxy sensor and the flange bolts. I want to strangle whoever thought it was great to put the sensor plug in such a horrible location. Honestly, they couldn't kick the dongle out 6-inches...?

Are you sure you don't mean the driver's side where the upstream O2 sensor is tucked away out of reach?

Driver side is really just the steering column to move, and the passenger side is the starter (and trans cooler lines if you have an auto, although I didn't have to move mine out of the way)..

You can avoid disconnecting the steering shaft and disturbing the starter by dropping the k-member as well as raising the front of the engine from its mounts. It also makes access to the header bolts easier.

Used locking header bolts which were a little fiddly to get on but small price for never having to worry about bolt creep.

IMO locking header bolts are essential if you want to make sure they're tight only once. Having to retighten them would be a major PITA.