Shorty headers

Autokyrios

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Are you sure you don't mean the driver's side where the upstream O2 sensor is tucked away out of reach?

You can avoid disconnecting the steering shaft and disturbing the starter by dropping the k-member as well as raising the front of the engine from its mounts. It also makes access to the header bolts easier.
I was able to pre-install mine before putting the header in the car, for the driver's side.

Not sure dropping the k-member is as straightforward an effort as just removing the starter and steering lower shaft, but anyone doing so I would advise taking that stamped-metal monstrosity and chucking it for a tubular k-member. Makes working around the engine and such SOOO much nicer.
 

Pentalab

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I used ceramic coated JBA LT's on my 2010 GT. That dropped the eng bay temps a good 40 F (measured). JBA made the ceramic coated LT's, in 2 x versions, silver ceramic, and titanium ceramic. The titanium versions are battleship grey. After a romp, with blower on..... 2 blocks from home, lift the hood, and I can push down hard onto any of the 8 x primary's.... and a bit warm to the touch, that's it. The mating JBA hi-flow cats reside under the front seats.

The huge eng bay temp drop is a result of the ceramic LT's......and also the new cats being located way back, below the front seats. OEM cats were at base of eng bay and run stupid hot, along with the OEM iron manifold.

The internal exhaust gases inside the ceramic LT's is hotter....and also flow faster. I'm convinced that is part of the overall effect. It's the one mod that was blatantly obvious.

Also added the 7 bar upper grille (foglamp delete). Oem upper grille on a 2010 GT is 80% blocked off. Ok, now there is no heat issue under the hood. The 7 bar upper grille also eliminated the 2 x 90 deg bends into the 'snorkel' that feeds the intake of the oem airbox.
 

Autokyrios

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Just about any shorty will be lighter and flow better than the stock cast iron rust logs.

I'd do long tube but unfortunately live in one of those areas...
 

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