Correct, I have stock ride height. My point is that you should attempt to have parallel Tranny (TF) and Pinion (PF) flanges, per the Spicer/Dana document Buzzystang attached above.It will all depend on if and how much you are lowered
Correct, I have stock ride height. My point is that you should attempt to have parallel Tranny (TF) and Pinion (PF) flanges, per the Spicer/Dana document Buzzystang attached above.It will all depend on if and how much you are lowered
no the CV joint was put there to minimize NVH which has plagued these cars from day one. thus the sand filled panhard bar, fluid filled engine mounts,monster sized control arm bushings, axle dampeners and the 40lb terd link.Mr. Clean - did you also see the angle chart on page 8 (page 11 of the pdf?) It describes set up when you have an offset driveshaft angle when viewed from the top, not the side. I noticed you mentioned earlier that you were stock springs, so it's probably not an issue, but you might want to chase that theory out. I'm lowered, and probably like most, my rear end kicked out to one side.
BTW, I'm just a wannabe in this thread...I just read stuff on the internet and throw theories out for people to sweat over their installs while I sit back dreaming of my own one piece driveshaft someday...har, har...Thanks to you all for the sweat equity and headaches.
Also something to ponder (here I go again...) the FRPP lowering kit which I believe is 1.5" to 2" drop, does not come with an adjustable UCA??? (I think it comes with camber and caster offset bolts for the front struts though). Think maybe the stock 2 piece w/ rear CV joints was so they could change ride height at will with a solid rear axle? Hmmm....
Mr. Clean - did you also see the angle chart on page 8 (page 11 of the pdf?) It describes set up when you have an offset driveshaft angle when viewed from the top, not the side. I noticed you mentioned earlier that you were stock springs, so it's probably not an issue, but you might want to chase that theory out. I'm lowered, and probably like most, my rear end kicked out to one side.
So I wonder what a drop-in Currie 9" axle goes for? $2000?no the CV joint was put there to minimize NVH which has plagued these cars from day one. thus the sand filled panhard bar, fluid filled engine mounts,monster sized control arm bushings, axle dampeners and the 40lb terd link.
Ford knew there was a problem but it seems they didn't know where or it would have costed more to fix the problem than just hiding it.
Check with Ron (94tbird)... I think you're on the low side.So I wonder what a drop-in Currie 9" axle goes for? $2000?
So I wonder what a drop-in Currie 9" axle goes for? $2000?
I know I'm late to the party...but I'm no longer on the sidelines regarding the Spydershaft install. I purchased from one of the vendors running a special and installed it this weekend.
Since I've had my rear end done under warranty three times, I did it the anal retentive way, using Ford's work instructions for a pinion flange r/r:
http://s197forum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=624&d=1177902338
Install would have gone a lot faster if I had not got hung up on the driver's side brake caliper which ended up needing to be compressed and bled, but other than that and a sore arm on about five attempts at the pinion nut with a breaker bar, the install went fine.
I borrowed my dads digital torque meter to measure the pinion bearing preload and pinion nut torque before and after the pinion flange install. It has a nice peak read function on it so all you have to do is grunt and muscle the nut off and then go check the result on the meter.
For those looking for reference points for their own installs or just curious:
My peak torque on the pinion nut was 195.6 lb. ft.
Pinion bearing pre-load was 1.3 - 1.5 Nm or about 12 lb. in.
(the meter only reads 20 lb. ft or higher, but could read to 0.1 nm)
On the pinion nut reinstall I nailed the pinion nut torque right back at 195.6 lb. ft. The pinion bearing preload was also right back at 1.5 nm.
I'm running H&R sport springs, which is the least drop you can get: 1" on the front .75" on the rear. I'm not running an adjustable UCA, and measurements on my operating angles, while not perfect are within Spicer specs.
Due to other commitments and plain apathy towards the vehicle regarding the pinion nut removal, I did not drive it until two days later (that let the red loctite dry, though). I am happy with the results. The car just feels "lighter" on acceleration and the clutch at low RPM's doesn't feel like it has to catch a boat anchor.
And after three years of chasing it, (the aforementioned 3 ring and pinion installs), the whine at 55-65 is GONE!!! The whole time it was that piece of crap stock driveshaft. Score one for the Buzz.
Thanks to Ron for the invention of this nice mod. Cheers!
ah so wine isnt necessarily ALL gears, mine has been having that wine too but around 60-70...I'm in line to get one...
So no difference on the butt-dyno?I've got an 07 GT. I spent about 3 1/2 hours putting in the aluminum driveshaft while lying under the car. Yup, takes some time. Was it worth it? Not sure, really. Cost a pretty penney to obtain, plus I bought a puller, torque wrench, and a few other things. The shaft is nice and light. Is it worth this kind of expenditure? I have my doubts. No miracles seen.