Spydershaft Driveshaft Install!

[MrClean]

It will all depend on if and how much you are lowered

Correct, I have stock ride height. My point is that you should attempt to have parallel Tranny (TF) and Pinion (PF) flanges, per the Spicer/Dana document Buzzystang attached above.

 

[Buzzystang]

Mr. Clean - did you also see the angle chart on page 8 (page 11 of the pdf?) It describes set up when you have an offset driveshaft angle when viewed from the top, not the side. I noticed you mentioned earlier that you were stock springs, so it's probably not an issue, but you might want to chase that theory out. I'm lowered, and probably like most, my rear end kicked out to one side.

BTW, I'm just a wannabe in this thread...I just read stuff on the internet and throw theories out for people to sweat over their installs while I sit back dreaming of my own one piece driveshaft someday...har, har...Thanks to you all for the sweat equity and headaches.

Also something to ponder (here I go again...) the FRPP lowering kit which I believe is 1.5" to 2" drop, does not come with an adjustable UCA??? (I think it comes with camber and caster offset bolts for the front struts though). Think maybe the stock 2 piece w/ rear CV joints was so they could change ride height at will with a solid rear axle? Hmmm....

 

[spyder7724]

Mr. Clean - did you also see the angle chart on page 8 (page 11 of the pdf?) It describes set up when you have an offset driveshaft angle when viewed from the top, not the side. I noticed you mentioned earlier that you were stock springs, so it's probably not an issue, but you might want to chase that theory out. I'm lowered, and probably like most, my rear end kicked out to one side.

BTW, I'm just a wannabe in this thread...I just read stuff on the internet and throw theories out for people to sweat over their installs while I sit back dreaming of my own one piece driveshaft someday...har, har...Thanks to you all for the sweat equity and headaches.

Also something to ponder (here I go again...) the FRPP lowering kit which I believe is 1.5" to 2" drop, does not come with an adjustable UCA??? (I think it comes with camber and caster offset bolts for the front struts though). Think maybe the stock 2 piece w/ rear CV joints was so they could change ride height at will with a solid rear axle? Hmmm....

no the CV joint was put there to minimize NVH which has plagued these cars from day one. thus the sand filled panhard bar, fluid filled engine mounts,monster sized control arm bushings, axle dampeners and the 40lb terd link.
Ford knew there was a problem but it seems they didn't know where or it would have costed more to fix the problem than just hiding it.

 

[MrClean]

Mr. Clean - did you also see the angle chart on page 8 (page 11 of the pdf?) It describes set up when you have an offset driveshaft angle when viewed from the top, not the side. I noticed you mentioned earlier that you were stock springs, so it's probably not an issue, but you might want to chase that theory out. I'm lowered, and probably like most, my rear end kicked out to one side.

Yes, I did take that into account...stock my LR tire stuck ¼" out further on the divers side, so when I bought the Spyder and CHE adj UCA, I also bought the CHE adjustable panhard bar, and centered the axle in relation to the rear fenders. When I was under the car Saturday, I used a carpenters square to see if I could find an angle between the PF and DS looking up from under the car and I couldn't...it looked pretty centered. I guess I could get a protractor tool and do a more in depth study of the matter, but it looks pretty much centered. Lucky 1st shot?

no the CV joint was put there to minimize NVH which has plagued these cars from day one. thus the sand filled panhard bar, fluid filled engine mounts,monster sized control arm bushings, axle dampeners and the 40lb terd link.
Ford knew there was a problem but it seems they didn't know where or it would have costed more to fix the problem than just hiding it.

So I wonder what a drop-in Currie 9" axle goes for? $2000?

 

[don_w]

So I wonder what a drop-in Currie 9" axle goes for? $2000?

Check with Ron (94tbird)... I think you're on the low side.

 

[2MFF]

So I wonder what a drop-in Currie 9" axle goes for? $2000?

Start here http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsre.aspx?id=2731

 

[MrClean]

Start here http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsre.aspx?id=2731

Thanks!

 

[Buzzystang]

another install.....long.....(yawn)

I know I'm late to the party...but I'm no longer on the sidelines regarding the Spydershaft install. I purchased from one of the vendors running a special and installed it this weekend.

Since I've had my rear end done under warranty three times, I did it the anal retentive way, using Ford's work instructions for a pinion flange r/r:

http://s197forum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=624&d=1177902338

Install would have gone a lot faster if I had not got hung up on the driver's side brake caliper which ended up needing to be compressed and bled, but other than that and a sore arm on about five attempts at the pinion nut with a breaker bar, the install went fine.

I borrowed my dads digital torque meter to measure the pinion bearing preload and pinion nut torque before and after the pinion flange install. It has a nice peak read function on it so all you have to do is grunt and muscle the nut off and then go check the result on the meter.

For those looking for reference points for their own installs or just curious:

My peak torque on the pinion nut was 195.6 lb. ft.

Pinion bearing pre-load was 1.3 - 1.5 Nm or about 12 lb. in.

(the meter only reads 20 lb. ft or higher, but could read to 0.1 nm)

On the pinion nut reinstall I nailed the pinion nut torque right back at 195.6 lb. ft. The pinion bearing preload was also right back at 1.5 nm.

I'm running H&R sport springs, which is the least drop you can get: 1" on the front .75" on the rear. I'm not running an adjustable UCA, and measurements on my operating angles, while not perfect are within Spicer specs.

Due to other commitments and plain apathy towards the vehicle regarding the pinion nut removal, I did not drive it until two days later (that let the red loctite dry, though). I am happy with the results. The car just feels "lighter" on acceleration and the clutch at low RPM's doesn't feel like it has to catch a boat anchor.

And after three years of chasing it, (the aforementioned 3 ring and pinion installs), the whine at 55-65 is GONE!!! The whole time it was that piece of crap stock driveshaft. Score one for the Buzz.

Thanks to Ron for the invention of this nice mod. Cheers!

 

[Hawgman]

I finally got around to installing mine over the weekend. I still have a burning feeling in my right shoulder and the back of my right arm from that fucking pinion nut.

 

[Buzzystang]

Two ibuprofen every four hours will help that. After about two or three consecutive doses and a good night's rest, my arm was much better. Though for awhile there I thought I might have done something permanent. Still beats pulling a Kimmer...

 

[SteveP]

so I drove mine today for the 1st time since it was installed. felt a little smoother at higher speeds. All in all though, I am happy. I convinced my mech to get one for his bullitt he ordered.

 

[jre8806]

ah so wine isnt necessarily ALL gears, mine has been having that wine too but around 60-70...I'm in line to get one...

I know I'm late to the party...but I'm no longer on the sidelines regarding the Spydershaft install. I purchased from one of the vendors running a special and installed it this weekend.

Since I've had my rear end done under warranty three times, I did it the anal retentive way, using Ford's work instructions for a pinion flange r/r:

http://s197forum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=624&d=1177902338

Install would have gone a lot faster if I had not got hung up on the driver's side brake caliper which ended up needing to be compressed and bled, but other than that and a sore arm on about five attempts at the pinion nut with a breaker bar, the install went fine.

I borrowed my dads digital torque meter to measure the pinion bearing preload and pinion nut torque before and after the pinion flange install. It has a nice peak read function on it so all you have to do is grunt and muscle the nut off and then go check the result on the meter.

For those looking for reference points for their own installs or just curious:

My peak torque on the pinion nut was 195.6 lb. ft.

Pinion bearing pre-load was 1.3 - 1.5 Nm or about 12 lb. in.

(the meter only reads 20 lb. ft or higher, but could read to 0.1 nm)

On the pinion nut reinstall I nailed the pinion nut torque right back at 195.6 lb. ft. The pinion bearing preload was also right back at 1.5 nm.

I'm running H&R sport springs, which is the least drop you can get: 1" on the front .75" on the rear. I'm not running an adjustable UCA, and measurements on my operating angles, while not perfect are within Spicer specs.

Due to other commitments and plain apathy towards the vehicle regarding the pinion nut removal, I did not drive it until two days later (that let the red loctite dry, though). I am happy with the results. The car just feels "lighter" on acceleration and the clutch at low RPM's doesn't feel like it has to catch a boat anchor.

And after three years of chasing it, (the aforementioned 3 ring and pinion installs), the whine at 55-65 is GONE!!! The whole time it was that piece of crap stock driveshaft. Score one for the Buzz.

Thanks to Ron for the invention of this nice mod. Cheers!

 

[Buzzystang]

ah so wine isnt necessarily ALL gears, mine has been having that wine too but around 60-70...I'm in line to get one...

Perhaps, but I could also theorize that gear whine could be amplifed through the center bearing support bracket in the stock two piece through the interior cabin. A cheap experiment would be to replace the stock spacers in the center bearing support bracket with some poly or rubber bushings and see if that does anything to reduce it in the cabin, but I'm sure it would increase driveline slop and vibration, while not doing anything about weight or et's. At least that's how I convinced myself afterwards...

 

[majajh]

my experiences and opinions

I've got an 07 GT. I spent about 3 1/2 hours putting in the aluminum driveshaft while lying under the car. Yup, takes some time. Was it worth it? Not sure, really. Cost a pretty penney to obtain, plus I bought a puller, torque wrench, and a few other things. The shaft is nice and light. Is it worth this kind of expenditure? I have my doubts. No miracles seen.

Lessons learned:
1.Instructions are not very good. I found really good installation instructions on one of the Mustang forums. Spydershaft needs to spend a few cents to make decent instructions.
2. It would have helped a bunch if they had put a 12mm, 12 point socket/wrench in the box. Six point 12mm won't work. The wife had to make a tool run.
3. I had a booger of a time getting the front end of the old shaft off. Finally, a side blow from a hammer got it loose.
4. The pinion nut is a bear to remove. However, buy a cheap hammer-it style impact wrench, and the $10 investment works just fine.
5. I bought some gear oil- I did lose some.
6. A gear puller with a 3 inch reach should work, but there isn't a sharp edge for the puller to grab onto. It did squeeze down on the flange and get it off once I tightened it up.

 

[Larmo]

I've got an 07 GT. I spent about 3 1/2 hours putting in the aluminum driveshaft while lying under the car. Yup, takes some time. Was it worth it? Not sure, really. Cost a pretty penney to obtain, plus I bought a puller, torque wrench, and a few other things. The shaft is nice and light. Is it worth this kind of expenditure? I have my doubts. No miracles seen.

So no difference on the butt-dyno?

 

[scramblr]

You're not really going to see a power difference except at the track. I did notice higher revs quicker and less slowing down when down shifting. That's a good thing since a lot of the inertia from the stock shaft is gone. Plus most of the damn clunking is gone.

 

[Larmo]

I'm not a track guy so perhaps this mod is not for me???

 

[scramblr]

I wouldn't say that. I hit the track one weekend per month, May - Oct 'cause that's the only time it's open. That's were you "see" the difference, in the timeslip. But for DD this mod is great as well. You feel the revs pick up quicker and the driveline just not being as clunky and heavy. It's hard to explain, but once you know your car and you do this mod, you notice the difference.

 

[majajh]

daily driver

Mine is a daily driver that gets goosed on occasion. No difference that I can see.

 

[kena]

Has anyone installed the Spydershaft on a 4.0 Auto? Are there any changes in the procedure for such an install? Do you need the Pinion Flange? I have this shaft and am yet to install it so I am looking for any tips that may apply to the V6 Auto.

Thanks