steeda hd mounts vs. gt500 mounts

[Sam Strano]

Ah, nope. The ball bearings are in fact steel. And holes will get them stuck, and allow more crap in. The issue is the top and bottom literally snap together like an old Snap-Tite car model (remember those, or am I just old?) and they pop apart.

 

[Sleeper_08]

...like an old Snap-Tite car model (remember those, or am I just old.....

I remember them and must have a couple somewhere on my shelves waiting to be built.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Someone also suggested loosening up the OEM panhard bar mount and retighten it as part of the rear spring/shock install. That make sense because the panhard bar may have been installed slightly off center from the factory.

Doing this also re-indexes the bushings to the new ride height. If you're keeping the OE LCAs and UCA, you really should loosen them, settle the car, and retorque them at the new lower ride height as well.


Norm

 

[Norm Peterson]

For street use and autocross would it make more sense to get the MM camber plates or the Steeda HD mounts? Can either one be easily adjusted or do they need to go get an alignment whenever the camber is changed.

The only thing that's much different about doing alignment from wrench work in general is making the angular measurements and knowing which way to move what to change things.

You do need a flat place to set up on, and having a little patience helps.

If you're talking about maintaining a normal-ish alignment for your street driving and a more aggressive setup for auto-X or open-tracking - yes, it's entirely possible to swap from street to track in paddock when you arrive and back again before you leave. BTDT. Once you've found what you like, come up with some positive means of repeating the positions of the things that get moved. Then it'll take less than five minutes per side including the jack time so that things are easier to move.

I do not know how much camber my Dunlops like but I can't afford to wear them out too fast by having too much camber on the street.

Aside from maintaining appropriate inflation pressures, street-driving tire life depends more on how you drive, particularly with respect to how hard you normally take corners. Normally as in an overall average of everything, not just counting the couple of times a week or so where you might be leaning on it a lot harder through an Interstate on-ramp.

You may also need to be careful with the toe setting.


Norm

 

[ct07gt]

Thanks for the advice, I think the Fed-Ex guy has been trying to drop of my front Koni Sports so I will probably order the Steeda HD Strut mounts from Sam soon. I appreciate the help.

 

[captdistraction]

So I made a mess when installing my front konis, as I was lowering one of my stock strut/spring/top plate combos I tapped the inner fender, and that was all it took to seperate the top from the bottom. Ball bearings everywhere!

Hopefully the GT500 mounts hold up until I can find something better than that half-assed design.

 

[bobbis]

I've been running the Steeda HD mounts for over a year now and run the car pretty hard in the corners often. They just work great....never a sound or any reason to know that they're even there at all. I've had the camber adjusted twice with no issues.

 

[ct07gt]

I installed my Steeda HD mounts and Koni Sports last week and had it aligned. Before I got the car aligned I pulled the struts out to maximum camber and the shop measured it at around -2.4 degrees on both sides. I had them set the camber at -1.5, but it was good to see you can get so much camber out of them.