Suspension advice please

JCCNY

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I've searched and read a lot, just looking for advice on building my suspension right the first time. I have an 06 GT currently stock and am adding;
-Koni STR's front/rear (orange)
-Steeda Sport or Ultralite springs

I'm budget minded and don't go to the track or do autocross. Just looking for a better appearance and improved handling.

Do I need strut mounts and/or camber plates? I'm thinking GT500 mounts will work and that a new pan hard bar isn't necessary. I'll of course do an alignment. I'm still learning and would appreciate some tips - thanks.
 

06GTMustang89

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I have the steeda ultra lights with GT500 strut mounts and gt500 shocks and struts (saving for koni yellows and CC plates as i will eventually track the car). It rides very well and was inexpensive for sure. I got the camber to -1.5 with the setup... An adjustable panhard is necessary since the rear will be lowered... the axle needs to be centered back..
 

KITT

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If you dont race or autocross it doesnt matter honestly. Pick the springs you wanna lower it to and use camber bolts from BMR and save alot of money instead of caster/camber plates. You could replace everything under the car and wouldnt see the difference if you dont race it. Spirited street driving will feel much better with some quality lowering springs and quality rims and tires (wider). Use camber bolts to get that correct and then align. If your shocks and struts are in need of replacement then pick something nice. If they are OK dont waste the money. Panhard will center the rear but if your not on a track youll never know it! Its all up to you in how much coin you wanna spend.
 

JCCNY

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^ The one shop I called said it was borderline whether or not I should keep the stock shocks & struts which are 7 years old (only 36k miles though). Thanks KITT.
 

KITT

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^ The one shop I called said it was borderline whether or not I should keep the stock shocks & struts which are 7 years old (only 36k miles though). Thanks KITT.

I wouldnt think they would be very productive after 45-50K miles. May be worth it to replace them now and avoid another alignment soon!
 

Philostang

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I'm going to disagree on two things thus far.

1. You won't notice better (than stock) quality dampers on the street.
2. You won't notice a better quality ride with an upgraded Panhard bar.

Let's do this in reverse order. I have an `06 as well, and the stock panhard sucks from the factory (bushings are way too soft). I live in an urban area where we have less-than-perfect roads. Driving around here I would feel the rear step out sideways on uneven expansion joints (highway) and potholes (city streets). The first mod I did was a panhard and it was instantly better under these conditions...not just a little better, but vastly better. The rear was much tighter and no longer felt like it was skipping around on me.

Now shocks. Thinking that superior dampers won't have an impact on the quality of street driving is just flat false. Really false. There's so many reasons/ways to see this is scary, but let's stick with actual experience. We'll do my own first.

Driving my car before and after the Koni Yellows went on was an eye-opener in terms of how stable the car felt (mostly highway driving for me at that time). The Yellows are a nice entry level shock for performance, and they make for a great street damper. I've stepped up from there to Penske racing shocks and it's crazy how much better they feel on the street over the Koni Yellows (to be fair, there's a bit more going on up front on my car since the Yellows were on, so some of the improvement can be attributed to non-shock upgrades). The point is that moving incrementally up the shock food chain shows benefits on the street in ride quality just as much as in performance.

Now other folks' experiences. I've driven SGD's car w/its AST 4100 shocks (a coil-over package). Even with his stiff spring choice, the car's ride quality feelt superior to my old Konis. Keep in mind, when I say "ride quality" I'm not talking about how "comfy" the car feels (Dave's car is NOT comfy on the street). I'm talking about how well put together the car feels - how well you can feel the car take to a road with all its components working in better unison. Nothing's floating around, nothings acting out of sorts with other parts of the car. Any `'ole shit dampers can be soft and comfy, but only the higher quality ones bring the spring action into harmony with the springs. You definitely feel this on the street - it's part of the reason why the German luxury cars feel as they do; they've got pretty good dampers on them from the factory.

Back to the S197 chassis, I've also been in a 2011 Boss (mostly track). Great car. The suspension is not fundamentally different from a 2006 in terms of its basic architecture, but the ride is worlds-different from the crap we got from the factory in `06. I was blown away at how composed this chassis is now coming straight out of the factory -blown away at the difference from what mine was like in `06. Virtually every improvement made by Ford since then has been in component quality (better bushings, better dampers, etc.). The only real geometry change I know of has been in a modestly longer rear UCA (but that has a negligible impact on ride quality). The week before my Boss rides I was in a newer M3, and I'll be damned if the Boss wasn't knocking on the door of that car in terms of ride quality.

The point to all this: dampers matter regardless of where you are driving. They don't matter if you don't care about ride quality or don't have the ability to sense it.

From what I've heard, most folks with the experience of swapping to the STR shocks are very pleased with the improved ride quality on the street. Tapping yet even more experience (and my memory), if I recall Sam Strano frequently recommends these to folks in your situation (folks who want a better ride but are not looking to necessarily track their car). Put very-simply, the better your damper, the better it controls the spring, and the better your ride quality will be.

Best,
-j
 

JCCNY

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Good info Philostang, thanks. I looked at Koni yellows which are $200+ more. I don't know anything about adjusting them, but I'm sure they'd be great. I only drive about 3-4k miles per year in the Stang and these NY roads are pretty beat up. I do go to the NH/VT area a few times a year and would enjoy tearing up some country roads.

Didn't mention that I have Steeda LCA's already. Also running 285 Nittos in the rear.
 
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JEWC_Motorsports

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I sent you those write up's. Id either go with Steeda Sports or Ultralites. Depends on how low you want to go. Replace the factory strut mounts with the GT500 strut mounts.
 

JesseW.

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i remember someone saying the STR's are the same out of the box valving wise as the yellow's set at full soft. this is a good thing if true. the yellow's at full soft are nice on the street. anything over half way through and it gets a little rough for my liking.... but having the adjustability on the autocross course is sweet.
 

Norm Peterson

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Do I need strut mounts and/or camber plates? I'm thinking GT500 mounts will work and that a new pan hard bar isn't necessary. I'll of course do an alignment. I'm still learning and would appreciate some tips - thanks.
Another option is the Steeda HD strut mounts, which are a strut mount upgrade that includes the ability to adjust camber without having to purchase anything else. Adjusting camber at the strut mount is much preferred over adjusting with crash, er camber bolts (most of which cannot be torqued down to Ford's strut to knuckle fastener torque spec).

Speaking of strut to knuckle bolts - do yourself a favor and buy a set of the new fine thread bolts, the ones that are torqued down to 160-something ft-lbs instead of your coarse-thread originals that are spec'd for only 148.

The advantage to having camber adjustability is that camber can then be set to better fit your particular driving than whatever fixed amount of camber that the car came with does (they do not all come through with -0.75°, some are more, some less). And that's true even if you don't temporarily swap to a more negative setting for those upper NE drives.


Norm
 

JCCNY

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Thanks for all the replies. Some different thoughts here on what I should get, I should probably just call Strano or trust my shop. I was hoping to pick up new/used parts over the next few months so I'm all ready to drop it in the Spring.
 

irishpwr46

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Thanks for all the replies. Some different thoughts here on what I should get, I should probably just call Strano or trust my shop. I was hoping to pick up new/used parts over the next few months so I'm all ready to drop it in the Spring.


what shop are you going to? if you can, try and stop by realspeed and talk to dan. he is a former steeda tech and will have a lot of good advice for you. and im going to be selling my koni str-t dampers soon. i have a set of koni yellows i will be installing.
 

JCCNY

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what shop are you going to? if you can, try and stop by realspeed and talk to dan. he is a former steeda tech and will have a lot of good advice for you. and im going to be selling my koni str-t dampers soon. i have a set of koni yellows i will be installing.

I go to Mustang Magic. Hit me up if you sell your STR's, I have them in my cart right now for $349 shipped new.
 

irishpwr46

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ill be selling them as soon as i can get time to swap in my yellows. ive got such a hectic schedule that i have been tripping over them for over a month.
 

Sharad

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I've searched and read a lot, just looking for advice on building my suspension right the first time. I have an 06 GT currently stock and am adding;
-Koni STR's front/rear (orange)
-Steeda Sport or Ultralite springs

I'm budget minded and don't go to the track or do autocross. Just looking for a better appearance and improved handling.

Do I need strut mounts and/or camber plates? I'm thinking GT500 mounts will work and that a new pan hard bar isn't necessary. I'll of course do an alignment. I'm still learning and would appreciate some tips - thanks.


The Koni struts & Steeda springs combo is a good setup. I'd add GT500 mounts and an adjustable panhard bar.

UPR's adjustable PHB is $135 with the forum discount. It's tubular chrome-moly with polyurethane bushings and it has a lifetime guarantee.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-street-adjustable-pan-hard-bar-05.html
 

BMR Tech

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Thanks for all the replies. Some different thoughts here on what I should get, I should probably just call Strano or trust my shop. I was hoping to pick up new/used parts over the next few months so I'm all ready to drop it in the Spring.

I just put together a well rounded package for a customer who was looking for the same thing you are, in his 2007 GT.

I will go against the grain here, and recommend our SP009 Lowering Springs. You will not find a better all around performance spring on the market, especially with a stock like ride.

I have a lot of customers running our SP009 Kit with Koni's...as well as stock. The STR customers absolutely love the combo.

If you have any questions, feel free to give me a call.
 

Sam Strano

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I'm happy to explain all the differences between the shocks and the many variety of springs. I carry a lot of different brands of springs too, so it's not a matter of only pushing what I have, because I have options. There are some specifics that matter to me with regards to springs, mostly in their working rate and the quality of the materials.
 

2006gtmike

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Adjusting the camber using the Steeda Upper Strut Mount Plates?

1) Unbolt top 4 nuts

2) Through the top of the strut tower slide the plates left or right while on the alignment rack

Is that it?

What is the proper way of adjusting camber with these plates?
 

Sleeper_08

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Adjusting the camber using the Steeda Upper Strut Mount Plates?

1) Unbolt top 4 nuts

2) Through the top of the strut tower slide the plates left or right while on the alignment rack

Is that it?

What is the proper way of adjusting camber with these plates?

Taking the weight off the front wheel helps make it easier to move.
 

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