suspension setup for street questions

[Riptide]

What do you guys recommend? Stock springs and shocks. I have my uca in the bottom hole and my lowers in the bottom holes also. So a ton of anti squat. 27.5" drag radials.


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[sheizasosay]

Your car probably has a looser rear end than a porn star. Easy to loose the ass in a turn with your car?

Edit- you are in the corner-carver section talking about what AS and you have drag radials......if ur drag racing ur fine . Otherwise you have more rear roll steer than anybody in the CC section garunteed.

I had roush springs that lower the rear .75", had lca relo's in the lowest hole and uca in lowest hole. I had substantially less rear roll steer than you and I would lose my ass parking damn near.

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[BMR Tech]

What do you guys recommend? Stock springs and shocks. I have my uca in the bottom hole and my lowers in the bottom holes also. So a ton of anti squat. 27.5" drag radials.


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No matter what, you have WAY too much AS, and your IC point is WAY too short...

I have never had anyone have good results with your settings. For road course, your roll-steer is absurd.

For drag race, you have an extreme amount of AS, and IC is so short that basically the car will hit the tires extremely (too) hard upon initial load. Common symptoms of too much AS and short IC are, excessive chassis lift in the rear, causing the tires to spin excessively when the ass-end falls down. Going down the track your car will look like a 1984 Foxbody with stock 300K mile suspension, and 750 rwhp.

 

[Riptide]

You're right. Car feels like its on stilts lol

Easy to lose track of the section/subforum when using tapatalk. Thanks


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[fun4me]

My basic question is: Assuming a 1.5" drop in the rear, will relo brackets be needed or can the AntiSquat be corrected w/ the alternate mounting holes on the UCA bracket?

 

[sheizasosay]

My basic question is: Assuming a 1.5" drop in the rear, will relo brackets be needed or can the AntiSquat be corrected w/ the alternate mounting holes on the UCA bracket?

Here's the cat again.
Car 1- You could go without relos and get AS from lower UCA hole in mount and you would have better ability to put power down with the trade off of roll steer in the understeer category. Car would likely need more rear swaybar rate to help rotate pending other factors. Likely safer at the limit. I don't know where the AS would be, but higher than stock is my guess.

Car 2- stock uca mount. Relos in the highest hole. You would probably be looking at about 2ish degrees LCA angle. You would have, IMO, very manageable oversteer while being tune able somewhat with an adj sway bar or no rear sway bar. AS would be better than stock.

Either way is just a tad different, but I wouldn't reccomend the lowest hole in the relos unless you happen to prefer that driving style....which would be "squirrelly"

YMMV and I'm sure there are some opinion discrepancies. I have driven in all the configurations I have talked about....that's my disclaimer. Truthfully that disclaimer isn't that great considering I didn't have a stop watch on a track for all the different configs and I'm willing to bet I'm not as good a driver as many that post here. But I've at least done some crappy testing.


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[BMR Tech]

When you lower the car 1.5" you are lowering the UCA and LCA front mounting points.

That being said, you will get different results from changing the UCA or LCA.

If it were my car, (for Cornering) I would start with the dropped UCA point, and go from there. It WILL help correct AS, as well as shorten the IC.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Unfortunately there are no such brackets (1" drop for LCA) due to it being impossible, without the end user making serious modification.

Now you know one of the reasons that I'm still on the OE springs after 5 years and ~30,000 miles.

Near as I can tell, half an inch more LCA relocation than car lowering puts axle steer at static ride height very close to neutral.


Norm

 

[sheizasosay]

So then 1.5" drop by your count is ideal with relos?


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[loots06]

so i want to put a little bit of my tax return towards the suspension, i currently have:
k springs
gt500 front strut mounts
frpp dampers
j&m adj panhard bar
camber bolts
front strut tower brace

i was wondering what sway bars i should go with for street use and something for road course (but not serious racing) for fun. i want to grab a set of j&m lca's for the rear. is it really necessary for brackets? i know that question has been beat to death for racing but for street use would it be fine without them?

If you have a negative camber issue you could turn the strut mounts and have the arrows pointing toward the engine to add positive camber. This should help you dial in your suspension and help with wheel alignment. Best of all you its relatively inexpensive.

 

[Norm Peterson]

So then 1.5" drop by your count is ideal with relos?

If the LCA relocation is between -1.5" and -2", I'd say you'd be in a pretty good place. Minimal roll steer and significantly better anti-squat.

Based on what Kelly is suggesting and the lack of threads complaining about S197 brake hop, that shouldn't be a problem like it can be in some cars when you run the antisquat % up.


Norm

 

[fun4me]

When you lower the car 1.5" you are lowering the UCA and LCA front mounting points.

That being said, you will get different results from changing the UCA or LCA.

If it were my car, (for Cornering) I would start with the dropped UCA point, and go from there. It WILL help correct AS, as well as shorten the IC.

So no relo's to start w/ a 1.5" drop, and relos w/ anything more than 1.5"? Also, if going w/ the relos than the UCA bracket mounting hole should be the upper one?

 

[Sharad]

so i want to put a little bit of my tax return towards the suspension, i currently have:
k springs
gt500 front strut mounts
frpp dampers
j&m adj panhard bar
camber bolts
front strut tower brace

i was wondering what sway bars i should go with for street use and something for road course (but not serious racing) for fun. i want to grab a set of j&m lca's for the rear. is it really necessary for brackets? i know that question has been beat to death for racing but for street use would it be fine without them?

I'd go with these swaybars-
http://www.uprproducts.com/eibach-mustang-anti-roll-sway-bar-kit-05.html

It surprises me when people say they are of no benefit on the street. I can definitely tell they're there, and I can feel the difference from adjusting the front bar. Maybe that means I drive too aggressively on the street?

 

[BMR Tech]

So no relo's to start w/ a 1.5" drop, and relos w/ anything more than 1.5"? In YOUR case, correct. I would start with the UCA in the lower hole, and see how it works for you. Also, if going w/ the relos than the UCA bracket mounting hole should be the upper one? If it were MY car, I would put the UCA in the upper hole and use the Relocation Brackets in the Middle Hole....and go from there.

As Norm pointed out, you will not see many complaints in the rear world with the S197 and excessive brake-hop. I am a huge fan of adjusting IC and AS on these cars with the LCA, rather than the UCA. If I experienced negative effects via brake-hop and rear roll-steer, than I would not recommend this.....but I am simply basing my opinion from my results, as well as my customers results.

 

[fun4me]

Thanks for your reply Kelly.

 

[BMR Tech]

No problem, hopefully it is helpful.