Switched 5V source

mikeyfitz

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Do we have any in these cars? Cannot find a single one anywhere for the boost module on an aeroforce interceptor. Been looking everywhere and not finding a thing, don't really want to buy the regulator but I will if it comes down to that.




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s8v4o

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You could always tap into the TPS reference signal.
 

s8v4o

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Without having it right in front of me I can't tell you with certainty. On the throttle body you should have two sets of wires. One set is for the servo controlled throttle body and the other set is for the TPS. The TPS should have 4 wires going to it. If you have a simple volt and ohm meter you can find out exactly which wire it is. LOTS of sensors are like this and have a 5V reference signal wire. You don't have to use the TPS as it's just the one I normally tap into. One wire is ground, one is 12V reference, one is 5V reference, and the last wire is 5V return signal that should read roughly 1-5V depending on throttle position.

So here's what you do. Turn the key on and test each wire with the meter. One shouldn't read nothing (ground). One should read 12V. One should read 5V. One one should read around 1V. Obviously you're looking for the 5V one. Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions.
 
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mr. anderson

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here's a simple alternative if you know electronics, as it is probably what they have heat shrinked up with wires soldered to it and sell for like 20 bucks: heck I could probably make these up and sell them.

three leads, +12vdc input, a ground, and the 5vdc output.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062599

I know most sensors are +5vdc but I would stray away from using their voltage as it can induce problems you don't wanna deal with later on.
 
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hawkeye18

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I really would not **** with the 5vdc sensor reference line. That is a very low-current, calibrated reference voltage for all of the sensors that the engine needs to run. If you tap off it, you will cause dips and spikes with current draw that at the very least will make your sensors run all wonky and at worst will blow your PCM out, because it isn't meant to supply any real current on that line.

I would get a voltage regulator like the guy above posted and tap it into a switched 12v line if you want a switched source. I might put a fuse on the input line, too.
 

mikeyfitz

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I really would not **** with the 5vdc sensor reference line. That is a very low-current, calibrated reference voltage for all of the sensors that the engine needs to run. If you tap off it, you will cause dips and spikes with current draw that at the very least will make your sensors run all wonky and at worst will blow your PCM out, because it isn't meant to supply any real current on that line.

I would get a voltage regulator like the guy above posted and tap it into a switched 12v line if you want a switched source. I might put a fuse on the input line, too.

Don't think it would be reliable?

I guess I could get that cheap regulator and just tap out and throw that in between the module and line.


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Full_Tilt

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Hawkeye is right, you could offset the 5v rail and make sensors read wrong, or even burn up the 5v regulator in the ECU which is probably not rated for doing much more than powering some low current sensors.

Voltage regulators are really cheap. Less than a dollar for a linear regulator, and a couple bucks for a switching regulator (more efficient and higher current capacity).
 
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mikeyfitz

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Looks like I'll be heading to radio shack then. Thanks fellas


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Full_Tilt

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If youre going to radioshack be prepared to pay 10 times what its worth, but if youre in a pinch...
 

mikeyfitz

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I could wait lol, that link would work just wiring that off a 12V right?


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Full_Tilt

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Technically you should put some capacitors between 12v, ground, and the 5v output. But you dont absoluetely have to.

Basically if youre looking at the front with the writing, the pins will be 12v, ground, 5v out from left to right.
If it gives you any trouble you can add a cap between 12v and ground, and another cap between ground and 5v. The values are not super critical, something around 10 uF (microfarrad) should be good. But like I said, you probably wont need to do this. Ive used 7805 vregs without the caps many times.
 

mr. anderson

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also if you do wire it up also get a couple .1 uF caps and wire them up as shown in the schematic. they are there to prevent voltage oscilations and HF ringing on the output. 7805 are usually pretty good at filtering but this will keep it clean and safe.

here are some pics to help:
vregulator7805-300x279.jpg

7805-Voltage-Regulator-Circuit-Diagram.jpg
 

Full_Tilt

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Thanks, I ninja'ed you on that response, haha
Im actually a graduate business student, but electronics is a hobby of mine.
 

mr. anderson

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heck yes you did, I was root'n around the net for those dang pics.

I guess I would say electronics are my hobby also. joined the navy as a avionics electronics tech and am now a aircrewman, in-flight technician. been doing this for 21+ years, I started out repairing F-18 RADAR at the black-box level, so I guess I would say I enjoy electronics.
 

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