The Definitive "Hard To Shift" Thread

[golkhl]

Welp....only made two clean runs tonight, the rest were a mix of bad launches and missed shifts(usually 2-3). Gear never grinds, it just locks out, even on full throttle lift before shifting. Might be time for a new clutch and master. Migh also explain why 440rwp car is only trapping 107-108 mph?

 

[golkhl]

Ordered the Mcloud stainless steel clutch line from American Muscle, hopefully it will help with third gear lockout and notchy shifting I have been experiencing of late. Already have the CHE brace with limiters, MGW shifter, and fresh synchromesh.

 

[Hvacmike]

Has anyone tried or heard about this blowfish mount?https://www.blowfishracing.com/drivetrain/107-2005-2010-mustang-gt-tr3650-shifter-support-kit.html

From what I've read the 2011 and up guys say it works. I wish it was cheaper though

 

[bujeezus]

rocky61201 said he ordered one back in February (previous page) but he hasn't posted back whether he got it installed and/or results.

 

[skwerl]

Has anyone tried or heard about this blowfish mount?https://www.blowfishracing.com/drivetrain/107-2005-2010-mustang-gt-tr3650-shifter-support-kit.html

From what I've read the 2011 and up guys say it works. I wish it was cheaper though

I bought one when they first came out. There's a thread on it here somewhere, and a link to an even bigger thread over on Boss Mustangs forum where the developer kept everybody abreast of his progress while developing the item. I was in the pre-order group and got one of the first batch.

It worked fine but there was definitely an increase in NVH. I already had the MGW shifter. When George came out with his upgraded shifter I got that, and eliminated the Blowfish bracket. I prefer the MGW solution over the Blowfish solution.

 

[rocky61201]

Sorry guys, I've got it sitting in my garage, just haven't had the time to install yet.
The only real major problem I have is getting locked out of 3rd on full throttle high rpm upshifts even when lifting off to shift. Hopefully this solves that problem. Promise I'll post something the night I get it installed.

 

[rocky61201]

Now I know why I was procrastinating putting this thing on. I fucking hate working on my back underneath the middle of the car. The instructions don't call for taking the mid pipe off. Do yourself a favor and take it off. I didn't and I'm sure it added a couple hours to my install time. PITA!!!!!!!!

Anyway the blowfish bracket works as advertised and works just like you hoped it would. The shifter now feels like it's bolted right to the transmission and has all of the vibrations that go with it. Awesome, just like I wanted. I haven't had a chance to really beat on it but I didn't get locked out of third on high RPM upshifts the only couples times I had a chance to step on it last night.

Oh yea, it works with a UPR billet shifter.

 

[eighty6gt]

Sounds promising. I might pick one up as a go-between while I wait to buy a 6060, going to be a year at least. Will be $600+ for me. Does the shifter still wobble around like a turkey leg in a bucket of ice when in gear? I'd have to think so. The 6060 with the MGW looks pretty stout.

https://youtu.be/DHXYSjOuWzw?t=393

 

[bujeezus]

I watched an install video on CJ Pony Parts an that job is definitely somethin I wouldn't want to attempt without a lift. Glad it worked out for ya.

 

[rocky61201]

Yes if you want to you can still move the shifter back and forth (left and right) while in gear. I don't think there is anything that will fix that. Maybe a better shifter than I have like the MGW might help. But I'm satisfied for now as long as I don't get locked out of third on high RPM upshifts.

I'm certain that when we're trying to jam/force it in 2nd or 3rd that's what wearing down our synchros and breaking our transmissions. Hopefully this fix makes my 2nd transmission last a bit longer.

 

[rocky61201]

After a couple days driving I have to say overall I'm happy with the blowfish racing bracket. Couple of notes - the blowfish website has two different part numbers, one for the 3650 and a different one for the 6060. But the instructions that came with mine say it will work for both transmissions buy flipping one of the brackets. Something to look into.

My UPR billet shifter rattles like hell above 4k. Sounds like the noise is coming right at the base of the shifter around the ball/socket area. I can wiggle it around or just put my hand pressure on the shifter and make the noises stop. I've had this shifter for about 3 years so maybe the tolerances aren't what it used to be. Might be time for a replacement.

The way this works for my shifter is by flipping upside down the stock u shaped bracket that bolts to the trans tunnel and then moves/slides forward a bit to clear the two screws still welded to the trans tunnel. Now that this bracket is upside down it's really close to the trans tunnel and may be another source of vibration/noise. I know this because when I force the shifter really really hard left/right my whole trans tunnel/center console shakes/vibrates really bad. I only did this test to find/isolate the small noises I was already getting. The blowfish bracket is adjustable up/down so I will make some adjustments.

For future owners - I would consider glueing a piece of rubber or something on top of the bracket where it may come into contact with the tunnel. Once you get this part installed you won't wanna go thru the trouble of taking it out.

 

[slackinoff]

I know this is an old thread, but thought I would add my experience with Syncromesh . This was recommended on another thread by Skwerl. I put it in last week and my car has never shifted this good. I had lockout from 1-2 at high rpm, and the occasional grind. Since I put in the 3.2 quarts of SM it's a different tranny; I am pretty happy since I was pretty close to doing a 6060. I am going to put in the WOT box (mostly for the 2-step) and the Torque limiters for good measure.

What brand of syncro mesh?

 

[bujeezus]

Skwerl said he used the Pennsoil brand at $8/bottle.

 

[hunter1022]

I finnally fixed my shifting problem after all the above fixes offered failed, i tried them all. Decided to install one more new clutch and fly wheel plus a new hydralic throw out bearing and a "Shim" behind the throw out bearing made by Ram Clutches. I installed Ram billet steel fly wheel a Ram Power Grab Clutch and new Ford hydralic throw out bearing, while reading there install info they recomended a "Shim" to go behind the throw out bearing which helps keep the proper space between the pressure plate and throwout bearing as it wears. The first bit of wear on the disk makes the gap on newer aftermarket clutches have a little larger than normal gap and then the throwout bearing does not engage well enough all the time causing shifting problems. I did as directed and installed the shim and now i have a better than ever clutch pedal (higher) and it shifts just fine at any speed. It worked for me it's been almost a year and i wanted to wait to see if this was going to do the trick and it has at least for me. The Shim for the throw out bearing can be found on the Ram Clutch Site. I also forgot to mention i also installed a Stainless Steel Clutch Line.