Tick sound when engine is warm

Discussion in '2011+ Mustang GT 5.0L Tech' started by Steven210, Mar 24, 2019.

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  1. Steven210

    Steven210 Junior Member

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    Hi all, new to the forum and looking for some advice/help. I own a 2011 5.0 with 157k mile on it. The car runs strong still; however it started making a ticking sound. It started at around 130k miles but it was faint and would go away. I replaced all the pulleys and both ac/serpentine belts. I also replaced the ac pulley and clutch. It seemed to help for a a couple of weeks.
    I thought at first that it was that bbq tick, but thebtick I have seems to be more consistent and on beat (so to speak)
    Now the tick appears to last longer an louder. I noticed it only does it when the engine warms up.
    Before taking it to a shop or dealer, I am hoping someone could give me some insight. ( I have a video but Not sure how to up load it )
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2019
  2. JJ427R

    JJ427R forum member

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  3. skwerl

    skwerl tree hugger

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    At 157K could it be the timing chains and guides?
     
  4. Steven210

    Steven210 Junior Member

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  5. Steven210

    Steven210 Junior Member

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    I wondered the same but wasn’t sure what that would sound like.
     
  6. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

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    Yes that's a possibility especially when the engine's past 150k miles. Another thing to look for is a worn cam phaser.
    It'll be easier to diagnose the problem if you localize the tick using a mechanic's stethoscope. If the phasers, timing chains, and guides are still original, it would make sense to replace all of those items plus the oil pump. Since the valve covers will be off, consider replacing the cam followers, lash adjusters, and valve stem oil seals to complete the top end refurbishment.
     
  7. Steven210

    Steven210 Junior Member

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    So I took the car in to get looked at and after running it all day, they finally came to the conclusion that it sounded like some sort of lifter tapping or something near the cam shaft. The shop said they would happily repair it and gave me a quote of $1500 just for labor, I was shocked!! Am I getting my eyes poked or is that what the normal labor price to fix a camshaft lash adjuster (aka lifter)? Should I be able to find a more reasonable (lower) price?
     
  8. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

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    Ha ha ha ha ha. At that price no wonder they would be happy to repair it! What gets me is that workshops arrogantly believe that they can actually get away with ripping off customers like that.
    Find another shop.
     
  9. Steven210

    Steven210 Junior Member

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    I agree
     
  10. Steven210

    Steven210 Junior Member

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    If it is the lash adjusters, on the 5.0 engine, do the cams have to come out or can they be removed without doing that?
     
  11. JJ427R

    JJ427R forum member

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    I agree ^^, I'm lucky and have a good mechanic I can trust, he charges a per hr. rate, would never quote me a cost on a job like that not even knowing the exact problem. I believe he is a bit cheaper on his shop rates at $85 an hour, I know many shops are getting up over $100hr. Before I met my current mechanic I would never take the first quote from anybody, I always check 3 or 4 different places, even if you have to drive a distance it will be worth it in the long run...
     
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  12. Steven210

    Steven210 Junior Member

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    Would a spun Rod Bearing cause the ticking sound?
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2019
  13. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

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    you need a real mechanic to listen to it, we haven't even got a video...
    I just ordered some Pypes M80's, to mid mount, should help with any ticking/annoying sounds I have.

    1500 is cheap to open up an engine/remove cams/ r&r all timing stuff with fake chinese parts/etc...
     
  14. Steven210

    Steven210 Junior Member

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    I was trying to upload a video but it kept telling me the file is too big.
     
  15. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

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    Intake valve(s) has receded valvetrain now has lash - the valve is spinning slowly, noise comes, noise goes away. To confirm, try a few leakdown tests.

    Solution: rebuild heads using old exhaust valves, new intake valves with updated new ford part number, should be able to be done at a reasonable cost, make sure the machine shop has the proper single point insert to do the seats. Add fresh 2015 spec springs and L&M racing exhaust cams. Change rev limiter to 7500.

    Alternative solution: Get 2015 Mustang cylinder heads (these are in heavy demand!!) Add L&M racing exhaust cams. Change rev limiter to 7500.

    Install GT350/boss 302 manifold. Change rev limiter to 8000!
     
  16. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

    Age:
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    It would cause a heavier knocking sound rather than ticking.
    As for $1500 being cheap, that's equivalent to 15 hours labor. If you remove both cylinder heads and the timing cover to replace worn/broken parts, that would justify the price. The mechanic didn't explain specifically what the OP's $1500 was actually going to cover.
    If parts and labor are going to cost more than $3k, the OP would be better off replacing the entire engine.
     
  17. Steven210

    Steven210 Junior Member

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    The information the shop gave me didn’t specify doing both sides. They only mention replacing the lash adjusters and that was it. They also mentioned it would go up if they found other things wrong. They suggested possibly getting a new engine.
     
  18. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

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    In that case don't walk but run away from that shop!
     
  19. Steven210

    Steven210 Junior Member

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    Just thought I’d share an update on the ticking sound. After a few shops telling me that my mustang needed a new engine, I tried on last place. Within minutes they said “it’s the clutch”. Turns out all 4 clutch springs came loose and would rattle. Life is good again