TREMEC T56 Magnum S197 Transmission

gil_t2

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That wasn't made to fit in a S197.. They had to retrofit a bunch of stuff. Also, its not exactly a regular Magnum from what I understand.


No, It was the Magnum. I still have the Feb MM&FF mag. the only things they had to do was, Bell Housing, Driveshaft, and custom trans mount.
They did not say anything about the speedo
 

Towelly

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No, It was the Magnum. I still have the Feb MM&FF mag. the only things they had to do was, Bell Housing, Driveshaft, and custom trans mount.
They did not say anything about the speedo

Oh is that all? LoL
 

tigerhonaker

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Ya I know, it just gets the hopes up.....

One of my Buddies Ron was waiting on it but it just looked like it was going to keep dragging on.
So he went with the Complete Kit for the TR-6060 and Luvs it.
Also he got the FRPP short shifter.

I will see it in person in a week at the,

2011NMRALogoWorldFinals.jpg


tigerhonaker
 

bigray327

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I must be the only person in the world not happy with their 6060. Hmph. I'm tired of waiting for these assholes, so I'm just gonna get my "shitty-shitty" fixed.
 

bigray327

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Whats wrong with your 6060?
I've mentioned it in this thread and a couple of others... it clunks whenever the clutch is in motion (in or out). I thought it was the McLeod clutch for a while, but it's not. It clunks even when I blip the gas, now, regardless of the clutch state. It's coming from about 4" behind the bell housing interface, and none of the experts - including a Tremec "Elite" dealer - can tell what it is without cracking it open. So even if it's nothing, it's gonna cost me $1000, on top of the $1500 I've already spent troubleshooting it.

Stay in school, kids, don't buy used products on internet forums!
 

gil_t2

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The only thing that is adjustable in the 6060 is the shaft end play. If you drop the DS you can check the main shaft play, but you need to remove the tailshaft to check the countershaft play. If there is to much play you need to drop the trans remove the bell housing, on the back side of the BH is the front bearing races, remove them and install shims. reinstall the races.
 

bigray327

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The only thing that is adjustable in the 6060 is the shaft end play. If you drop the DS you can check the main shaft play, but you need to remove the tailshaft to check the countershaft play. If there is to much play you need to drop the trans remove the bell housing, on the back side of the BH is the front bearing races, remove them and install shims. reinstall the races.
Thanks man. Very much appreciated.
 

bullitt boy

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Did you guys with the 6060 change to a new drive shaft when you did the swap? I hear conflicting info on this question. I now have a dynotech aluminum in my car and I am wondering if it can be re-used safely. some say yes and some say no.
 

gil_t2

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You must have some end play, call your DS maker ask if the GT500 shaft is shorter, if so how much. I tried mine and only had 1/8" play. That is not enough so i shorten it 1/2". Only cost me $45.00. It is simple take the slip end of the DS apart make alignment marks first, remove spline part of shaft and cut the same amount off each piece.
 

bigray327

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Did you guys with the 6060 change to a new drive shaft when you did the swap? I hear conflicting info on this question. I now have a dynotech aluminum in my car and I am wondering if it can be re-used safely. some say yes and some say no.
I've used a Coast driveshaft made for the GT500/6060 and I've also used a Spydershaft. Same clunking with both.

You must have some end play, call your DS maker ask if the GT500 shaft is shorter, if so how much. I tried mine and only had 1/8" play. That is not enough so i shorten it 1/2". Only cost me $45.00. It is simple take the slip end of the DS apart make alignment marks first, remove spline part of shaft and cut the same amount off each piece.
So you're saying my driveshaft is probably too long, causing endplay in the main shaft? That makes good sense, considering it sounds like it's also causing a clunking in the rear end (which I replaced, chasing this problem).
 
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gil_t2

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My DS was made by Coast. If you swaped to a 6060 and used your GT DS it may not have enough play and it could bottom out. I know it is a pain , but with suspenion loaded loosen the rear 4 DS bolts all most all the way. Use a screw driver between the pinion flange and DS flange , pust forward on the DS to see how much end play.

If not enought, you can take it apart, I saved this pic of 94tbird's DS after it was taken apart. Coast told me to cut 1/2 off both pieces.

View attachment 27428
 
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bigray327

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My DS was made by Coast. If you swaped to a 6060 and used your GT DS it may not have enough play and it could bottom out. I know it is a pain , but with suspenion loaded loosen the rear 4 DS bolts all most all the way. Use a screw driver between the pinion flange and DS flange , pust forward on the DS to see how much end play.

If not enought, you can take it apart, I saved this pic of 94tbird's DS after it was taken apart. Coast told me to cut 1/2 off both pieces.
Wow, thanks again. This has been plaguing me for over a year. I'll let you know what happens.
 

bullitt boy

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Thanks guys . Looks like a new drive shaft is in order. I can always sell the dynotech to re-coup some costs.
 

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