TTY vs. ARP

[tnsaleen]

Bare with me, I'm new! Yes, I have done a search.

I'm building a motor, stock block, crank, K1 rods, and Manley or wiseco pistons. Undecided on pistons right now. Should be 10:1 compression, and shooting for 700-750rwhp on e85 and boost.

I have seen a few people having problems with ARP head hardware, such as cracking the block and such. I have also heard that the TTY head hardware is also known to hold up pretty well, is cost efficient, and can lift heads in the event something goes wrong, and possibly be used as a buffer to prevent major damage.

I'm out to listen to opinions, and see the facts. If anyone has any real first hand experience, or any links, please post them up!

Thanks.

 

[weather man]

On here, what part to use is not tech. If you were wrenching and posted up asking if you really should torque down to 100 pounds, that would be tech.

A lot of the ARP failures seem to have been guys installing them for the first time in the 4.6 block. At your horsepower, either way would be fine, just make sure the installer has done it before.

Don't repost, it will get moved eventually.

 

[screaming_pc]

I would find a Speed shop that does only mustangs and have built 100's of motors, ask them which and why, then buy the parts from them. Don't ask here because you have people that build 1 maybe 2 engines and base everything they use on what 20 different people in a thread used, who also have only built 1 or 2 engines.

My engine has ford OEM TTY, and have driven it everyday for 35000 miles. It was bought from a Speed shop. It uses no oil and has all the power it ever had. It starts in sub freezing temps and the heat of summer.

To each his own, but after seeing the nightmares people have put together, because they listen to the forum clique and not the supplier of the parts they buy, and they end up redoing an engine 3 times because they don't know what they hell they are doing and letting the internet guide them.

It's insanity.

 

[weather man]

I would find a Speed shop that does only mustangs and have built 100's of motors, ask them which and why, then buy the parts from them. Don't ask here because you have people that build 1 maybe 2 engines and base everything they use on what 20 different people in a thread used, who also have only built 1 or 2 engines.

My engine has ford OEM TTY, and have driven it everyday for 35000 miles. It was bought from a Speed shop. It uses no oil and has all the power it ever had. It starts in sub freezing temps and the heat of summer.

To each his own, but after seeing the nightmares people have put together, because they listen to the forum clique and not the supplier of the parts they buy, and they end up redoing an engine 3 times because they don't know what they hell they are doing and letting the internet guide them.

It's insanity.

A shop that does hundreds of engines, oh...say like MMR, has an agenda. Are they recommending a part because they have an overstock, or because it is what you really need?

On this forum, guys do ask the supplier, and post up the answer. They also post up when the supplier gave them the WRONG information.

The smart guy gets information from multiple sources and then makes an informed decision. Relying on one big shop for information means you get that one shops take on whatever part you are looking for, not smart.

It is when guys buy parts from a supplier and DON'T post up that they had issues that guys get screwed. The big shop MUST have known was right, you the little guy, must have fucked up somehow.

 

[tnsaleen]

I apologize for posting in the wrong section. My decision will ultimately be based on a multitude of research, and others with first hand experience. Obviously most are going to say ARP. I have read that most people end up torquing the ARP hardware to 85ft/lbs, and everyone has also used different methods and types of lubrication such as grease, moly, oil, etc.

 

[Wild White Pony]

I would find a Speed shop that does only mustangs and have built 100's of motors, ask them which and why, then buy the parts from them. Don't ask here because you have people that build 1 maybe 2 engines and base everything they use on what 20 different people in a thread used, who also have only built 1 or 2 engines.

My engine has ford OEM TTY, and have driven it everyday for 35000 miles. It was bought from a Speed shop. It uses no oil and has all the power it ever had. It starts in sub freezing temps and the heat of summer.

To each his own, but after seeing the nightmares people have put together, because they listen to the forum clique and not the supplier of the parts they buy, and they end up redoing an engine 3 times because they don't know what they hell they are doing and letting the internet guide them.

It's insanity.

I've found more good advice from S197 than from speed shops, speed shops don't make money telling every Joe Blow how to fix or build his car. It's the internet use it, take from it what makes common sense. This is a place where people work on cars as well as enjoy driving them.

OP, TTY or ARP both work fine, the head changing kit is so affordable and will work with your goals, the ARP can be used multiple times. Your choice, if using the ARP so many threads and posts exist to guide you properly and you can always PM anyone who's used them for advise.

 

[hamish]

screaming pc can eat a dick after that comment.

 

[tnsaleen]

Well I never knew such a simple question would stir up so much hostility! I like the price of TTY hardware, just unsure of reliability and longevity.

 

[ford20]

For what it is worth Bruce used TTY hardware in his builds if I am remembering correctly. Also, it seems that the ARP instructions are calling for too much torque on Aluminum blocks which causes them to crack.

 

[DiMora]

I'm building a 298 Stroker and will by using TTY.

 

[JoshK]

My last engine used tty hardware everywhere. Took it (an 11:1 284 ci) to 740whp @ 20lbs. The engine I am building now will have ARP everywhere because it is going to be pushed way harder than the last one. The previous engine was removed and sold in working order only to build the 326 big bore I am working on now.

I agree with Hamish btw

 

[05stroker]

I would find a Speed shop that does only mustangs and have built 100's of motors, ask them which and why, then buy the parts from them. Don't ask here because you have people that build 1 maybe 2 engines and base everything they use on what 20 different people in a thread used, who also have only built 1 or 2 engines.

My engine has ford OEM TTY, and have driven it everyday for 35000 miles. It was bought from a Speed shop. It uses no oil and has all the power it ever had. It starts in sub freezing temps and the heat of summer.

To each his own, but after seeing the nightmares people have put together, because they listen to the forum clique and not the supplier of the parts they buy, and they end up redoing an engine 3 times because they don't know what they hell they are doing and letting the internet guide them.

It's insanity.

What shop would you recommend?

 

[tnsaleen]

I will be 10:1 compression, fully forged bottom end, and shooting for 750rwhp. I am having my machine shop assemble the short block.

 

[JeremyH]

I went arp everywhere.

 

[loots06]

TTY for the head studs and APR for the side bolts. I'll be running Wiseco pistons, 9.5:1.

 

[AutoXRacer]

ARP for mains and side bolts...

Use TTY for the heads... Keep it simple.
The head studs are also super expensive and will not get you anything more compared to the TTY.

 

[swflastang05]

ARP FTW! Really either one will work fine for your goals. As stated above ARP for the mains and sides then either one for the heads. Just make sure your machine shop properly prepares the block based on your decision i.e. torque plates, etc. ARP is nice for the other bolts too such as balancer, flywheel or flexplate, etc. since you only have to buy them once.

 

[tnsaleen]

So the TTY hardware has been proven to 750hp with 10:1 CR and 18-22psi? The only thing that bothers me about the ARP is the threads I have read about it cracking or pulling the block apart.

 

[JeremyH]

Zero issues with arp, you need to take the same precautions with any hardware and aluminum threads. Use the assembly lube and follow the torque procedures.

 

[AutoXRacer]

So the TTY hardware has been proven to 750hp with 10:1 CR and 18-22psi? The only thing that bothers me about the ARP is the threads I have read about it cracking or pulling the block apart.

A little off topic... 10:1 CR and 18-22PSI? I am assuming this will be fed +100 octane fuel or E85?

My setup has run 9.8:1 and even a slightly higher due to my FRPP heads with anywhere from 14-21 PSI on a PD blower. No issues.

But if you want peace of mind, install the ARP... Just be very careful when you install and torque them. Clean out the block threads and make sure you use the ARP assembly lube and torque per their spec!!

There is nothing worse than building a motor or modding a car and wishing you would have upgraded XX... Might as well get what you want than regret it later on.