UCA bushings and bolts needed to complete job

[Earthworm]

Good day all,

Going to order BMR UCA, mount and LCA in links below. Question is what additional poly bushings will I need to complete this job? Looks like the UCA comes with one side with bushings. The mount with a bolt. Does anyone have a link for a poly bushing that connects to rear end? I think I can call Ford to get part number for the flag bolt that connects the rear. Anything else I need to complete this job?
https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-uca-mount-red-0510.html
https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-uca-non-adjustable-poly-red-0510.html
https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-rear-lca-poly-blk-0514.html

Thank you!

 

[crjackson]

Unless you are at the drag strip on the regular and don’t do Mustang road-trips, I’d skip the poly bushing on the Diff side. I just did mine with a poly, and I can’t take the car on road trips at all now. The gears are so loud I have to pull-over every 50mi or so for headache relief.

Plus it’s a PITA to replace. If yours is weak or rotted, I’d just replace it with OEM.

I just ordered this one from TASCA. I’ll be doing the job again
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-upper-control-arm-bushing-br3z5a638b

 

[07 Boss]

BMR has a replacement diff bushing.

 

[Earthworm]

Unless you are at the drag strip on the regular and don’t do Mustang road-trips, I’d skip the poly bushing on the Diff side. I just did mine with a poly, and I can’t take the car on road trips at all now. The gears are so loud I have to pull-over every 50mi or so for headache relief.

Plus it’s a PITA to replace. If yours is weak or rotted, I’d just replace it with OEM.

I just ordered this one from TASCA. I’ll be doing the job again
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-upper-control-arm-bushing-br3z5a638b

Thank you for the heads up on this!

 

[GlassTop09]

If anyone wants to go w\ an OEM replacement UCA diff bushing, I'd highly recommend going to this 1:

This is the OEM Ford UCA diff bushing for a 13-14 GT500 8.8" axle. It's the best of the best OEM units........you'll get poly like performance w\ OEM Ford 13-14 GT500 axle articulation\ride compliance. This was designed to handle the OEM Ford 5.8L SC'd Trinity V8's 662 HP\631 TQ peak output so it'll handle a 4.6L V8 quite easily w\o breaking a sweat.

Hope this helps.

 

[JC SSP]

I think I will go this route, if and when I replace my bushing. Thx for the part number.

 

[crjackson]

If anyone wants to go w\ an OEM replacement UCA diff bushing, I'd highly recommend going to this 1:
View attachment 88781 View attachment 88782 View attachment 88783
This is the OEM Ford UCA diff bushing for a 13-14 GT500 8.8" axle. It's the best of the best OEM units........you'll get poly like performance w\ OEM Ford 13-14 GT500 axle articulation\ride compliance. This was designed to handle the OEM Ford 5.8L SC'd Trinity V8's 662 HP\631 TQ peak output so it'll handle a 4.6L V8 quite easily w\o breaking a sweat.

Hope this helps.

My new bushing arrived today (not the GT500 bush). Can you comment on NVH between the 2?

It was only $16 + shipping, I can still order the GT500 bushing for my 2014 GT. I do exceed the Shelby HP spec. - NVH has me running away from the poly.

 

[Emalafa]

If anyone wants to go w\ an OEM replacement UCA diff bushing, I'd highly recommend going to this 1:
View attachment 88781 View attachment 88782 View attachment 88783
This is the OEM Ford UCA diff bushing for a 13-14 GT500 8.8" axle. It's the best of the best OEM units........you'll get poly like performance w\ OEM Ford 13-14 GT500 axle articulation\ride compliance. This was designed to handle the OEM Ford 5.8L SC'd Trinity V8's 662 HP\631 TQ peak output so it'll handle a 4.6L V8 quite easily w\o breaking a sweat.

Hope this helps.

 

[Emalafa]

Did you have to go to shop to have it replaced, or is it possible for the shade tree mechanic to do with a couple of beers to help with tolerance..

 

[GlassTop09]

My new bushing arrived today (not the GT500 bush). Can you comment on NVH between the 2?

It was only $16 + shipping, I can still order the GT500 bushing for my 2014 GT. I do exceed the Shelby HP spec. - NVH has me running away from the poly.

If you're asking for a direct comparison between an OEM stock '09 MY UCA diff bushing vs this OEM stock 13-14 MY GT500 UCA diff bushing concerning NVH, I can't due to having initially replaced my '09 MY OEM stocker UCA diff bushing w\ the BMR poly insert UCA diff bushing when I installed a full BMR rear axle suspension LCA's\adj UCA\adj PHB w\ PHB brace setup before, later on, reversing back to a full Ford Performance M-5538-A LCA kit (OEM 07-14 GT500)\Roush 3rd Link UCA assembly (modified 07-09 OEM GT\GT500 UCA w\ mounting bracket.....OEM UCA front bushing retainer cut off & a new smaller dia retainer welded on w\ reinforcement then a 07-09 GT\GT500 UCA rear diff bushing pressed in w\ articulation slots clocked horizontally to allow lateral UCA deflection)\Ford Performance M-4264-A adj PHB (OEM replacement for FR500S & Boss 302 R1 race cars) & OEM 14 MY GT\GT500 stock PHB brace setup......thus for all practical purposes a full 07-14 OEM SVT GT500 rear suspension control setup....that I'm currently running under my '09 GT.

I did replace the BMR poly UCA insert diff bushing w\ this 13-14 OEM GT500 UCA diff bushing prior removing the rest of the BMR stuff, which when I tested it for any signs of extra pinion deflection (main influencer of rear axle wheel hop) under a 6,000 RPM clutch dump......I detected none at all w\ straight line axle stability maintained.
Where the real NVH improvement came into play on my Stang was after replacing all the BMR stuff w\ OEM Ford SVT stuff (removed all poly bushings from all unibody attachment points in particular......outside of the PHB) so a more holistic improvement......in which this OEM Ford 13-14 GT500 UCA diff bushing was designed to also provide\be a part of as well.......

Even w\ this current OEM Ford SVT setup, it still provides the same straight line rear axle stability & control w\o any hint of wheel hop\excess pinion deflection under a 6,000 RPM clutch dump as was observed thru the BMR setup, but it provides much better grip overall due to the better TQ transfer rate application control to rear axle so it doesn't shock the rear axle as hard as the BMR setup did thus helps the rear tires maintain more grip under load.......this is due mostly to the Roush 3rd Link's performance thru its modified front UCA bushing.......just as it was reported it would do......especially when powering out of turns\corners. Works wonders for overall control during handling on the streets............

The main NVH, IMHO, this OEM 13-14 GT500 UCA diff bushing (or any of the OEM UCA diff bushings for that matter) will arrest somewhat is noise passed thru from rear axle articulation......most std poly bushings aren't designed for this & will increase NVH transfer rates when the poly bushings are binding up from rear axle articulation.......I found this to be very true after my suspension swap out back to OEM Ford SVT setup (all OEM Ford designed rear axle bushings that attach to the unibody mounting points & at axle UCA mount are slotted to allow lateral deflection in both directions across the inner bushing sleeves thus not bind up under articulation. The rest are a solid rubber bushing design......). Note the inner bushing sleeve OD is larger (1 1\8") than the 1 you have bought (std 3\4" OD) & the ends have serrations cast into them to bite into the UCA when tightened up to eliminate any chance of this sleeve slipping\spinning under twisting rotation from vertical travel deflection.

The last thing concerning this bushing is its cost. When I got mine back in 2019, they were going for approx $75.95 + tax. Haven't checked lately but I'll assume that they'll cost more now.........so be advised.

So, in your case this OEM 13-14 Ford GT500 UCA diff bushing is something you might consider looking at since you're making some serious HP\TQ.

 

[GlassTop09]

Did you have to go to shop to have it replaced, or is it possible for the shade tree mechanic to do with a couple of beers to help with tolerance..

I did this myself on jackstands w\ rear axle still under the car.......I bought the Ford Rotunda 7.5"\8.8" UCA axle bushing removal\installation tool to do this job.......w\o this type of tool it still can be done but you'll have to pull the rear axle from under the car to do it. This particular Ford Rotunda tool is hella expensive, but it removes all guesswork out of installation (properly realigns\centers bushing into axle housing when pressed in.......once you properly set up\align the bushing articulation slots vertically to axle housing prior pressing). This is why most go w\ the poly insert replacement bushings.

Depends on the shade tree mechanic's tool selection & ability to handle\moderate alcohol consumption & maintain focus\coordination..........

Otherwise take it to a shop.

Note: tip to make this job easier to do in the future, coat the outer bushing shell of new bushing w\ some copper anti-seize before pressing\driving it in.

 

[crjackson]

back in 2019, they were going for approx $75.95 + tax. Haven't checked lately but I'll assume that they'll cost more now.........so be advised.

$25.63 + Shipping
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-upper-control-arm-bushing-dr3z5a638a

 

[GlassTop09]

$25.63 + Shipping
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-upper-control-arm-bushing-dr3z5a638a

Thanks for posting! This is good to know that Tascaparts.com has a much better price.

Here is where I was coming from concerning cost\price:
Rear end housing Bushing removal question | Page 2 | S197 Mustang Forum - S197Forum.com
Post #40............

 

[crjackson]

Thanks for posting! This is good to know that Tascaparts.com has a much better price.

Here is where I was coming from concerning cost\price:
Rear end housing Bushing removal question | Page 2 | S197 Mustang Forum - S197Forum.com
Post #40............

Thanks, the noise I’m trying to eliminate is highway-speed gear noise. Not that I don’t, now-have, horrendous clunking upon gear shifting or going from deceleration, back to acceleration. Sounds like a slapper-bar without the rubber bumper is smacking hard, when applying throttle. Going over bumps is really stiff compared to stock, but I haven’t noticed any additional noise there (so far).

I can drive-around the slapping noise by altering how I clutch/rev-match when shifting, but that gear noise has to go.

Wheel-hop is something that doesn’t really happen on my car. It lights the tires up fast, smooth and straight. I just want the noise gone.

Since I’ve decided that a shop install would be best, I’m going to order the bushing you listed here 1st. Hopefully it’ll alleviate the gear noise as well as a stock bushing.

Any thoughts on this?

BTW - I just ordered the bushing you recommended.

 

[GlassTop09]

Thanks, the noise I’m trying to eliminate is highway-speed gear noise. Not that I don’t, now-have, horrendous clunking upon gear shifting or going from deceleration, back to acceleration. Sounds like a slapper-bar without the rubber bumper is smacking hard, when applying throttle. Going over bumps is really stiff compared to stock, but I haven’t noticed any additional noise there (so far).

I can drive-around the slapping noise by altering how I clutch/rev-match when shifting, but that gear noise has to go.

Wheel-hop is something that doesn’t really happen on my car. It lights the tires up fast, smooth and straight. I just want the noise gone.

Since I’ve decided that a shop install would be best, I’m going to order the bushing you listed here 1st. Hopefully it’ll alleviate the gear noise as well as a stock bushing.

Any thoughts on this?

BTW - I just ordered the bushing you recommended.

Ah Ok, so your main focus is the gear whining frequency noise at speed. This Ford OEM 13-14 GT500 UCA diff bushing will help to lower this to an extent......the bushing that will have the most influence in the UCA assembly on NVH noise transfer into unibody will be the front one that is directly attaching to the unibody-attached mounting bracket (the unibody itself is the megaphone that amplifies any NVH sent into it) thus why it was the larger designed w\ the most NVH adsorption which made it the most flexible when put under load setting up potential wheel hop\excess pinion deflection rise. My read is that when you replaced this bushing w\ the poly 1 is when you started picking this up, correct?

So, since this noise is your main concern & you're hoping to arrest this as much as you can at the UCA diff bushing, then logically the OEM stock UCA diff bushing for you MY S197 will be the better choice simply due to its intended design--having more rubber between the inner sleeve\outer shell for NVH to travel thru & this rubber is of a softer durometer as well which will help to more effectively muffle NVH transfer.....but at the expense of more deflection under load but it won't be near as bad as the OEM UCA front bushing was.

In the end you'll have to decide between the 2..........both are a Ford OEM designed part to operate in the same manner......just 1 for a V6\GT, the other for a GT500.

But at the same time, you might also want to look at the elephant in the room.....the diff is the generator\source of this NVH noise frequency.......I don't know how loud this is or how good\bad your hearing is (especially higher frequency noise......the better your hearing is, the more sensitive you'll be to this & from your comments I'll lean on your hearing being pretty good.....) & from some of the other comments you've posted, you might wanna pull the cover & at least do an inspection of the diff as well (most likely a bearing or 2 is either starting to pit or develop flat spots in rollers\inner or outer races would be my initial thoughts......).

Hope this helps.

 

[crjackson]

Ah Ok, so your main focus is the gear whining frequency noise at speed. This Ford OEM 13-14 GT500 UCA diff bushing will help to lower this to an extent......the bushing that will have the most influence in the UCA assembly on NVH noise transfer into unibody will be the front one that is directly attaching to the unibody-attached mounting bracket

It’s gear whine, and outright roaring. I replaced the UCA because of perceived need for adjustability. I want to install a 1-PC drive shaft, and I thought having the ability to adjust the pinion angle may be needed.

I went with the Steeda because it states no increase in NVH, and reviews of the part seem to confirm that. However, I ordered the recommended part of the Diff-Bush also. Mistake on my part! Really regretting the whole ordeal at this point.

So, if I read you right, I’m still going to have a lot of noise, no matter what I do, unless I return it all to stock. Man what a waste of money and time. If that’s what I have to do, I’ll goe on with it and cry in my milk later.

I suppose I should cancel plans to replace the DS as well. I hate that worn, clanking POS, and I hate to replace it with the same.

 

[GlassTop09]

It’s gear whine, and outright roaring. I replaced the UCA because of perceived need for adjustability. I want to install a 1-PC drive shaft, and I thought having the ability to adjust the pinion angle may be needed.

I went with the Steeda because it states no increase in NVH, and reviews of the part seem to confirm that. However, I ordered the recommended part of the Diff-Bush also. Mistake on my part! Really regretting the whole ordeal at this point.

So, if I read you right, I’m still going to have a lot of noise, no matter what I do, unless I return it all to stock. Man what a waste of money and time. If that’s what I have to do, I’ll goe on with it and cry in my milk later.

I suppose I should cancel plans to replace the DS as well. I hate that worn, clanking POS, and I hate to replace it with the same.

I hear you........been there, done that myself my man. I've learned that this S197 chassis is a damn good chassis for rigidity\stiffness which is necessary for optimal all around handling performance......but the 1 main drawback (if you can call it that w\ a straight face) is its propensity to amplify any type of sound\vibration\resonance frequency that is sent into it (thus a megaphone) thus why Ford designed all the suspension parts as they did......to provide some handling performance but mainly to reduce cabin frequency noise......after all, these cars are production vehicles primarily designed for public use, not for what we want to do w\ them.....this goes for the GT500's as well, just more emphasis was put into the performance side vs public "balance".

It doesn't matter what the manuf's state concerning their aftermarket suspension products.......in order to lessen\remove the OEM bushing's deflection rate, you have to use materials that will not deflect as much under loads & this will most certainly increase NVH transfer frequency & rate thru it.......this is an engineering fact. The points where these parts physically attach to the chassis is the most critical area for NVH frequency transfer to occur thus the main point of control......another engineering fact. So, when going this route, you'll have to accept a certain amount of NVH increase\cabin noise increase as "normal" in order to gain the suspension stability\performance that the part is offering. This amount of acceptance is a personal choice 1 has to determine\make........unfortunately until we actually go thru it is when we will find out where our true tolerance levels are........especially if vehicle is primarily being street driven.

The other side of this is also true.......the stiffer bushings will show up any noise\frequency from the rear axle that was\is always present......just was lower than the surrounding background frequencies from road\tire noise, exhaust noise, trans\driveline noise & any interior cabin noise which we got used to hearing & accepted as normal.

This is why I made the suggestion to at least inspect the diff for integrity\soundness to rule it out & not to assume.........could all be normal, but...............

If there was the perfect material in existence that gave you both sides, I guarantee you Ford (the rest as well) would have already been using it thus no market would have existed for an aftermarket replacement.

Yes, the marketing can be very effective...........reality is another story.

PS edit-- Almost forgot, you might want to look into Roush suspension products as an alternative. I've noticed that Roush uses a similar designed type LCA\UCA bushing......physically visual.......as Ford used & are installed at the unibody-side of their stuff so I know they're taking their cues from Ford's engineering......... A picture of the Roush 3rd Link UCA assembly:

 

[crjackson]

PS edit-- Almost forgot, you might want to look into Roush suspension products as an alternative.

AFAIK - Roush stopped making the UCA for the 11-14 cars. I searched a while back, and couldn’t find any. I’d definitely prefer that to stock if it’s not noisy. I’ll search again. Perhaps that was a temporary lack of availability. Still, it wouldn’t solve lack of adjustability.

Thanks, I guess I wasted a shit-ton of money and accomplished nothing positive.

I’ll be looking to reinstall all stock parts, and forgetting the idea of a 1-PC driveshaft. I was only hoping to achieve pinion angle adjustment, for the install of a 1-PC DS. I can see that’s not going to happen now. I really wanted to ditch that POS 2-PC DS.

It’s too bad that no one ever produced a rubber bushing equipped adjustable UCA. That would seem to be a good fit for me.

Once I put my old parts back on, I guess the Steeda stuff will remain on my shelf in perpetuity, and serve as a reminder of this stupid mistake.

Could I at least use the new UCA mounting bracket without any unintended consequences? That thing looks incredibly strong compared to stock.

I suppose that would be a mistake also.

 

[DieHarder]

Have you considered something like this: https://www.s197forum.com/threads/w...he-most-difference.140239/page-5#post-2545073

 

[GlassTop09]

AFAIK - Roush stopped making the UCA for the 11-14 cars. I searched a while back, and couldn’t find any. I’d definitely prefer that to stock if it’s not noisy. I’ll search again. Perhaps that was a temporary lack of availability. Still, it wouldn’t solve lack of adjustability.

Thanks, I guess I wasted a shit-ton of money and accomplished nothing positive.

I’ll be looking to reinstall all stock parts, and forgetting the idea of a 1-PC driveshaft. I was only hoping to achieve pinion angle adjustment, for the install of a 1-PC DS. I can see that’s not going to happen now. I really wanted to ditch that POS 2-PC DS.

It’s too bad that no one ever produced a rubber bushing equipped adjustable UCA. That would seem to be a good fit for me.

Once I put my old parts back on, I guess the Steeda stuff will remain on my shelf in perpetuity, and serve as a reminder of this stupid mistake.

Could I at least use the new UCA mounting bracket without any unintended consequences? That thing looks incredibly strong compared to stock.

I suppose that would be a mistake also.

Just so you know you aren't alone.......I have a complete BMR rear suspension control setup (in hammer tone color) for a 05-09 S197 sitting in my shed right now......every part except for the UCA diff insert bushing (I chunked this along w\ the old OEM bushing outer shell) & a BBK #1763 62mm TB also that has bad BF shaft seals thus causing vacuum leaks....$349.95 also wasted......also a Ford Performance 1-Piece Aluminum DS w\ a split up accordion dust boot caused by normal DS slip joint flexing......also $617.95 wasted (have reinstalled the OEM 2-piece DS) so yes, these can be viewed as wasted investments......but looked at another way.......education is never free as there is a cost to learning.....whether in time or money or both & someone has to pay for it, so this is how I view it from my POV. Doesn't make it feel any better........but also don't beat yourself up over it either.

As for the Steeda UCA mount, I just checked Steeda's web site & it says that this UCA mount is only compatible w\ Steeda's own UCA designs......not OEM or other aftermarket designs.......sorry.
Steeda Mustang Upper Chassis Mount for 3rd Link (2011-2014), 555 4027

As for using a 1-piece DS, there are some (like DSS for example) that use a CV joint at the axle end instead of a U-joint for this very reason.......so you won't necessarily need to use an adj UCA assembly so keep this in mind. The Ford Performance 1-piece DS (some others as well) uses 2 Spicer 1350 U-joints & U-joints are designed to only operate within a .5*-2.5* deflection range in all directions (- to +) w\o starting to bind up (the max range is 3* but IMHO this is too close) & I don't know if folks do this, but you also should check rear axle lateral alignment (perpendicular to driveline centerline) when U-joints are used as well to stay away from the exact same issue of binding from axle being "crab walked" or laterally shifted (where an adj PHB can also be of some use to either correct or create, so be advised).....thus why Ford designed 2 CV joints in a half-shaft configuration (this half-shaft also has sound\vibration frequency abating material inside of it to try to arrest any diff frequency from travelling up the DS, FYI......made a video demoing this) w\ a center carrier in the DS. The CV joint at the axle end of a 1-piece DS goes a long way to alleviate a lot of this due to this joint's wide deflection operating range in all directions w\o binding. So, if it come to it, the next 1-piece DS I buy WILL have a CV joint at the axle end......full stop. It's the 1-piece DS's that use 2 U-joints (like the Ford Performance 1-piece DS) that an adj UCA becomes a more necessary addition IMHO w\ these S197's............

All OEM Ford designed rear axle suspension control components are matched to the unibody attachments to provide all the necessary correct suspension geometries at the OEM ride height......just like all the OEM front suspension control components are as well. This is how most of these parts can be replaced w\ same aftermarket parts & not need a realignment........if the OEM measurements are strictly maintained.

Just had a thought, mind informing us as to how you went about setting up & installing this Steeda adj UCA in its mount & the initial UCA arm hole center-to-center measurement......was this initially set to match the old UCA arm's same measurements? Did you use a DS angle finder to set the DS pinion angle (little different doing this on a 2-piece DS vs a 1-piece DS), especially on a DS using 2 CV joints in a half-shaft config? Might find that some of your issue may be correctable somewhat from a UCA readjustment.......yes this can be viewed as a reach, but at this point what's it gonna hurt? Was this the only part that was changed out (still using the same LCA's now as prior UCA changeout)?

Would help us to know where you started out from in order to help you...........

I was looking at the Steeda UCA mount........which holes rep the OEM stock Ford UCA alignment position? I ask due to Steeda not providing an installation instruction sheet off their web site.........