Rear end housing Bushing removal question

Discussion in '2005+ Mustang GT 4.6L Tech' started by Monkeyporn, Nov 16, 2019.

  1. GlassTop09

    GlassTop09 Member

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    Yeah when I did mine was after I had installed the BMR Adj UCA w\ BMR 3-hole Mounting Bracket (in the process of doing this is when I noted the axle bushing was also in poor shape....harder to see when the OEM UCA was still mounted to it). Had got all the necessary tools to cut the rubber center out & clean out the shell but it never crossed my mind that I may need to make a tool to help press this into the shell so I fought getting this part into the shell for well over 3 1/2 hrs. Was a little concerned that I may had ruined the bushing insert some when I took off approx. 1\32" off the dia of the piece to the right in your picture above as that part is the 1 that installs on the small side of the shell but after "testing" all out afterwards all seems to be working well (even on a 5,000 RPM clutch dump off a dig the rear end is rock steady w\ absolutely no wheel hop at all & car tracks straight w\ no fishtailing).

    Will look into making a simple tool to use to help press in these inserts going forward...…….. Appreciate the pictures!

    After subbing to this forum & reading up I ran across a thread where it was reported that to retain some of the articulation of the rear axle & reduce torsional forces on the UCA (especially these adjustable ones) is to retain the stock OEM rear axle bushing. I can see where this makes sense so I check my setup fairly frequently to ensure that the adjuster in the UCA hasn't come loose (I used some blue LockTite on the threads where the 2 adjuster lock nuts would bind against the 2 end pieces to hold them in place after I set the UCA instantaneous center angle & pinion angle....so far all is holding up OK w\ no signs of loosening or fatigue) thus why I was looking for the tools to R\R a whole rear axle UCA bushing.

    I was hoping that the 07-14 GT500's used a harder durometer version of this OEM bushing but found out recently that all S197's use the exact same OEM rear axle UCA bushing so nothing to be gained from that over OEM outside of going to these aftermarket insert bushings unless you opt for the spherical bushings, depending on the kit, as some of these are designed to rotate inside a socket to retain rear axle articulation but not allow any forward\rearward torque flexing.

    So now I'm looking at using the Prothane kit on the next changeout as an alternative...…...
     
  2. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    The included instructions tell you to install it from the other side and install the outside inserts last...no need to press the bushing in.


    As far as removing the entire shell an air hammer will walk it right out, you man need to collapse the shell into itself to get it goin but it works for me every time.
     
  3. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    You're right about articulation and urethane bushing, it's something I find myself explaining this often to customers looking into control arms.
    I'm a huge fan of the Whiteline and RTR control arms because they use an articulating hybrid teflon/rubber joint that works great for street and occasional track use. This allows the use of a urethane differential bushing because the upper control arm articulates at the front.
     
  4. 07 Boss

    07 Boss Senior Member

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    I don't remember if I got instructions with it as it came with a bunch of stuff I got all at once. At least I don't remember reading any. That could be the issue right there, lol. But in the end I figured it out. Kicked myself in the head for making it so complicated.
     
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  5. GlassTop09

    GlassTop09 Member

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    Ok, got some good news today. My buddy at the Ford dealership called me to inform that they can acquire all the pieces of the Ford Rotunda 8.8" S197 Rear Axle UCA Bushing Removal\Installer Tool (3 piece set) for me so I'll be ordering this bad boy Friday (my CC will bill out by then so I can put her on next month's billing....best they could do was book price) so no more fighting this job period going forward for me.

    Main reason I went w\ the OEM tool is this tool automatically spaces (centers) the new axle bushing properly in the axle during installation so it makes this an easy zip out\zip in process.....just crank on her until it stops....your good!
     
  6. jewc75

    jewc75 forum member

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    LOL it really isnt this difficult. Quit overthinking shit and KISS (keep it simple stupid).
     
  7. 1950StangJump$

    1950StangJump$ forum member

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    I am lowered on adjustable coilovers, and I have a full BMR setup in the back of my 2008 GT, including adjustable panhard, panhard brace, relocations brackets, adjustable LCAs, sway bar, and the 2011+ adjustable UCA/mount. Everything is the polyurethane option.

    I noticed during install the rubber bushing on top the axle, but I didn't put much thought into it. Are you guys saying that it needs to stay rubber when polyurethane is used elsewhere because you need the articulation?
     
  8. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    Urethane doesn't really belong in a 3 link, but if you use a urethane UCA I would leave the stock rubber bushing in the differential
     
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  9. oldVOR

    oldVOR forum member

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    Actually, there is a difference between the three axle bushing offerings from Ford.

    5R3Z-5A638-DA (2005-2010 Base, GT & GT500)
    BR3Z-5A638-B (2011-2014 Base & GT, 2011-2013 GT500) Harder durometer than 5R3Z
    DR3Z-5A638-A (2014 GT500) Harder durometer than BR3Z
     
  10. GlassTop09

    GlassTop09 Member

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    Hi oldVOR,
    Thanks for posting these part numbers!

    As far as my other posting, that was what the local Ford dealership told me when I was checking up on the Rotunda tool that there was only 1 bushing for all of them....so they obviously only quoted me the 5R3Z-5A638-DA part number as they looked up for '09 model GT500 (same yr as my GT).

    Didn't think to ask them for a cross reference part number check!

    Gonna be heading to the dealership Friday to order the tool so I'll pick up 1 of the DR3Z-5A638-A bushings as well while I'm there.

    Thanks again!
     
  11. GlassTop09

    GlassTop09 Member

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    Just picked this up today...………………………...

    IMG_0147.JPG
    This the Ford Rotunda 8.8" 3-Link Rear Suspension Bushing Removal\Installer Tool kit (made by OTC for Ford) that can R\R every bushing on the rear suspension (both ends of both LCA's & both ends of the UCA) of these S197 Mustangs. A flat roller bearing is supplied to reduce frictional drag & increase application force to bushing outer housing when removing or installing the bushings. 3 of these parts weren't shown in the FWM section that I got the part #'s from but were part of the 204-034 section of the kit (which was the reason for the increased cost--even w\ a dealership markdown of 15% for being a loyal customer--vs the listed Rotunda book price which the Rotunda site's tool listing didn't show them as part of this kit either. This kit is very well made....meaning it's a hefty setup of forged machined steel (parts weigh a total of 16.3 lbs) so it should stand up to some abuse while being used.

    I also got the OE Ford part #DR3Z-5A638-A '14 GT500 UCA Axle Bushing coming as well (found that these were about $27.00 cheaper to get thru some Ford dealer's eBay stores than at the local Ford dealership) so I'll be testing this tool out in the near future on a day when it's warm enough outside to do it (in winter in the 4 Corners area of the US now & just now recovering from a snowstorm that blew in Sunday & it usually snows again just after X-Mas thru the 1st of Jan & gets COLD....down into the -xx*F range for lows & 1x*F range for highs).

    Just putting this here for informational purposes for anyone interested.
     
  12. 1950StangJump$

    1950StangJump$ forum member

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    So, this tool is necessary when you need to remove the diff bushing shell, right? Not necessary or that useful if you are removing the rubber in lieu of poly and keeping the shell?
     
  13. oldVOR

    oldVOR forum member

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    Correct, the Ford tool and others like it are designed to press in/out the complete bushing assembly and is of no practical use for removing the rubber from the shell.
     
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  14. GlassTop09

    GlassTop09 Member

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    What oldVOR said...……...

    What this tool does do is it makes the removal & install of the rear suspension bushing assemblies (the whole thing...outer shell & rubber innards w\ sleeve) a very quick & easy job using just a 1\2" or larger impact wrench & socket (w\ a swivel & extension to do the rear axle bushing while the rear end is still under the car) as it is designed to space out the necessary 12mm spacing of the flange end of bushing shell from the rear axle bushing socket to properly center\align the installed axle bushing's centerline to the UCA's centerline to maintain proper alignment thru center of body to eliminate side loading the UCA & associated bushings during rear end movement & articulation.

    IOW's this tool makes this work as much of a KISS job as it can get. Getting this tool was the far & away cheaper option for me vs buying all the other necessary tools, compressor & torches to use to change them as an assembly.

    I could've also gone w\ the GM bushing removal\installer tool that jewlc75 provided a link to as it was much cheaper than this Rotunda set but I just decided to NOT overthink it & went w\ the right tool set specifically designed for this work on these S197's 8.8" rear live axle suspensions to replace the modded poly BMR rear axle bushing assembly w\ a harder durometer version of the correct designed OEM rear axle bushing to get some of the rear axle articulation back as my goal for my car is to be an all around performer....which means some potential track use so handling is important thus proper rear axle articulation is important to maintain good handling characteristics but is still stiff enough to still provide good qtr mile performance....and also to lessen some of the torsional loads (twisting motion) on the BMR adj UCA that I have installed already while the rear axle is articulating as this can cause this type of UCA to at most fail outright (break the adjusting mechanism as this is the weakest part of this type of UCA....designed for maximum tensile strength--stretching--but not being twisted) or cause the UCA's adjusting mechanism to come loose & turn losing the driveline pinion angle setting while under load which can cause other unwanted stuff to happen. Since the front bushing of this particular BMR adj UCA design is a poly bushing design that isn't designed to articulate at all, at least the rear axle bushing needs to be able to do that to keep the twisting loads on the adj UCA down to protect it from unnecessary damage (gives me some peace of mind as well).

    An old adage comes to mind...…….."When you learn better then do better." Does no one any good to learn then not apply what you've learned...…...
     
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  15. RED09GT

    RED09GT Senior Member S197 Team Member

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    The spherical bearing gives you that articulation without the front to back slop. For the small amount of NVH, it is worth it to know the car is going to go straight when I come off the 2 step under boost and still have good side to side articulation for predictable handling characteristics.
    I had torn my stock bushing and I am pretty sure I know the run it happened on as the car snapped hard to the right and I had to lift immediately. In the 50 or so passes since I replaced it, the car goes straight every time.
     
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  16. jewc75

    jewc75 forum member

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    The tools are the same. There is nothing different about them but the price. How do i know? You can rent the rotunda tool from autozone which i did for a friends car. Then i searched for one to buy since i knew id be using it multiple times.
     
  17. 1950StangJump$

    1950StangJump$ forum member

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    Thank you for the tool info.

    With a full BMR suspension in the back, I did decide to order the BMR poly bushing for the diff. I disagree that the poly will not articulate enough; it's polyurethane, not cement. Heck, for what it's worth, BMR specifically advertises that it provides enough articulation for the street.

    As for it stressing the UCA, I upgraded to the 2011+ mount and UCA anyway, and that this is a beast. I have a hard time believing it would bend or break, even if I had 1000+ HP and slicks (I don't).
     
  18. GlassTop09

    GlassTop09 Member

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    Hi RED09GT,

    I agree w\ you since learning on all this so I will be changing out to a full spherical adj UCA\LCA suspension design going forward if I do decide to get more serious w\ track usage w\ this car but in the meantime I'm really considering whether to build a separate, purpose-built race car instead in which it will get full spherical articulating 3-link suspension installed. My present car is a 1st gen '09 Gt Glass Top Edition (rare) so more than likely it won't get raced much more than maybe a couple times a year, just to mainly know where it's performance metrics are & to have some fun in it while primarily used as a street cruiser\occasional car show participant but I still want better rear suspension under it than the OEM parts (stronger parts that can be greased\maintained) so they'll last for the life of the car...………..

    Hi 1950StangJump$,
    Yes the BMR 2011+ UCA design does rectify some of the articulation issues of their original 05-09 UCA front poly bushing design while providing better front\back control so when the BMR 2011+ UCA design is paired w\ the BMR rear poly bushing design it's more than good enough.
    I got the original 05-09 BMR design UCA installed where the front poly bushing isn't designed to articulate hardly at all.....2 different part designs to fit these S197's......
    Didn't realize\think this thru when I initially bought my full BMR rear suspension setup at the time (my OEM rear suspension was wore out & needed to be replaced when I bought the car...making the clunking noises from wore out bushings...a LOT of rough roads out in New Mexico & this car spent most of it's time on SE NM roads before me) as this is my 1st Ford sport/performance vehicle that I've ever owned & the 1st using a 3-link rear live axle suspension design so was not aware of it's design characteristics then (my 2nd Mustang choice was a SN95 New Edge which has the 4-link rear suspension of which I am more familiar with & considering to get to turn it into a full time racer).....but I know all this now so to make this adequate w\ what I currently have installed I'm getting the stiffer OEM rear axle UCA bushing design from the '14 GT500 to install in the rear axle end to regain some of the lost rear end articulation motion from the original 05-09 BMR UCA design but retain some of the front\back stiffness control of the BMR poly axle bushing which will offload some more of the torsional (twisting) forces off the UCA assembly due to rear axle articulation causing the 05-09 BMR's UCA adjuster to at least potentially work loose & move changing set pinion angle setting while the car is in motion\stress which is my main concern.....as I alluded to in my prior post, mostly for piece of mind. Safety is my main concern here w\ this car as I have a 1-piece driveshaft installed also so don't even need the thought of this happening at all...…………. This particular OEM rear axle UCA bushing should also easily handle the TQ output levels of a NA to lightly SC'd 4.6L w\o wheel hop while also giving some slightly better NVH manners to boot...…..

    As for the tensile forces (stretching) being applied to the BMR adj UCA assembly while under load, whether the original 05-09 setup or the 2011+ setup, I agree w\ you wholeheartedly!
    If I could go back in time knowing what I know now I would have got the BMR 2011+ adj UCA w\mounting bracket assembly to use w\ the BMR rear axle poly bushing up front but I had already done all this before I learned all this thru finding this BBS & reading thru all the posts & stickied materials...……………..
     
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  19. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    Negative, you do not need this too to remove or replace the rear diff bushing. It is easily removed with an air hammer and just as easily installed with an aluminum seal driver or a flat block and a hammer.
     
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  20. GlassTop09

    GlassTop09 Member

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    Here is a picture of the Ford DR3Z-5A638-A rear UCA axle bushing for the '13-'14 GT500:
    IMG_0151.JPG IMG_0152.JPG IMG_0153.JPG
    The internal rubber inside this unit is indeed much stiffer than the 05-09 OEM unit (5R3Z-5A638-DA) but also the inner metal core is much larger as well.....1.125" OD instead of the OEM .875" OD. The outer shell specs are the same for both.
    In relation to this Ford Rotunda tool set this DR3Z-5A638-A bushing exposed a little issue as the larger OD inner metal core of this bushing wouldn't fit into the 2 204-590 piece's sockets (these would fit the 5R3Z-5A638-DA bushing as the 204-590 piece's inner socket ID is 1" but are a little small to accommodate the DR3Z-5A638-A's 1.125" OD inner core) so the force would've been applied to the inner core & the rubber attached to it instead of the outer shell as intended. So a quick trip to the local machine shop was necessary to machine the inner sockets of both 204-590 drivers out from 1" ID to 1.1875" ID so they could be used properly as designed w\ this DR3Z-5A638-A bushing (slight overlook by Ford as these 2 particular pieces are listed on the Rotunda web site to work w\ all Mustang rear axles from 05-14 & Lincoln Navigator rear axles from 05-17 in addition to also be used to press in\out knuckle bushings on some earlier Ford E-series models). I can make a couple of centering sleeves out of some PVC\poly pipe to center these pieces onto the OEM bushing's inner cores if needed when using this tool on 1 of those...….

    If all goes well w\ the weather in the AM (and I feel up to it....was a cold mother this morning to be laying on concrete underneath a car when I was tinkering around outside) I'll be using this Rotunda tool to remove the existing bushing & install this part (along w\ a quick check on the AMP bronze bushings I installed earlier on the shifter & trans linkage & to finally apply some RTV on the bearing cap brace studs of my Ford Racing 8.8" Girdle to stop the oil seeping out thru the stud threads when the car is in motion & oil is hot....didn't have any when I installed this part 1 1/2 yrs back....seeps just enough to let you know it's happening but not enough to hit the ground) so I'll let all know how all goes when I do it.

    This Ford DR3Z-5A638-A UCA rear axle bushing would make an excellent upgrade replacement rear UCA axle bushing for all other Mustangs outside of the 13-14 GT500 as there is actually much less cross sectional rubber area in between the metal inner core/outer shell to flex/deflect than some of the aftermarket poly bushings I've seen on the market to control pinion rise but still retain/provide longitudinal axle articulation (outer shell vertical pivot across CL of inner core) movement to offload torsional force to the UCA......IMHO this part# should be stickied for those who want to beef this up but retain OEM axle articulation as Ford did design this part to handle the torque off a 5.8L 662HP/637TQ SC'd 4V engine.....and it's roughly $27.00 cheaper on avg to get it thru 1 of the Ford dealer's eBay stores (got mine thru Lasco Ford's EBay store as they were the cheapest of the lot at the time) vs thru your local Ford dealer (my local dealer didn't have it in stock either as this is a rarely ordered part in my neck of the woods....most order the aftermarket replacements thru O'Reiley's, AutoZone, Advantage Auto Parts, Rock Auto, etc due to cost but all these are a 1-part fit all models design including the 13-14 GT500.....at least it is showing this way thru O'Reiley's w\ either Moog or Dorman OE bushings).

    Provided just for informational comparison's sake:
    Ford DR3Z-5A638-A......$47.01 @ lascoautoparts (Lasco Ford dealer's eBay store...axle end only, full bushing assembly....was quoted $74.95 + shipping & tax @ local Ford dealership)
    BMR Differential Bushing Kit...…$49.95 (off BMR's web site....axle end only, insert type)
    Prothane Rear Differential Bushing Kit...…$20.97 (off Prothane's web site....axle end only, insert type)
    Energy Suspension Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Kit...…$70.76 (off Energy Suspension's web site for both front & rear UCA bushings, insert type....didn't see a listing on site for the UCA differential bushing alone)

    I listed these as they are the most mentioned products on this BBS...…………..

    Hope this helps.
     
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