W3bb3r04 build thread

W3bb3r04

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^ The oil residue isn't a big deal and won't affect anything, as long as you got all the sand out and can secure the splash shields so they won't fall out or move around.


Yeah it's not worth it. There's still sand particles embedded in that residue and securing the baffles is easier said than done
 

dysan

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It's not that difficult to re-fasten the baffles...I use stainless steel self tapping screws and stainless washers under the heads with red loctite. You need to drill the bosses slightly under the size of the self tappers and I run RTV along the top edges where there are no bosses to drill into without going through the cover.

This is why I won't coat valve covers without removing the baffles in them...
 

GallopingFord

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Mine were removed when I powdercoated them, the screws broke off in them and now I'm second guessing it and may remove them and take the screws out
 

Bobby

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That looks like glass bead. And that is a big no no in powdercoating and in anything that comes in contact with oil for a motor. I would take apart the whole motor and have everything cleaned. If not you will just keep doing the same thing over and over again. You are suppose to use black iorn oxide. Glass embeds it self in stuff the releases. Sorry to hear man
 

W3bb3r04

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That looks like glass bead. And that is a big no no in powdercoating and in anything that comes in contact with oil for a motor. I would take apart the whole motor and have everything cleaned. If not you will just keep doing the same thing over and over again. You are suppose to use black iorn oxide. Glass embeds it self in stuff the releases. Sorry to hear man

Everything is apart, So I am going to clean it up real good. Oil galleys and such. Ive already gotten a new oil pan, oil pump, pick up tube etc. so everything will be new, removed or cleaned. It just sucks something so simple had to mess it up.
 

W3bb3r04

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It's not that difficult to re-fasten the baffles...I use stainless steel self tapping screws and stainless washers under the heads with red loctite. You need to drill the bosses slightly under the size of the self tappers and I run RTV along the top edges where there are no bosses to drill into without going through the cover.

This is why I won't coat valve covers without removing the baffles in them...

Mine were removed when I powdercoated them, the screws broke off in them and now I'm second guessing it and may remove them and take the screws out

I may try what you said dysan. I tried to do one side and the screws didnt feel too recure. I may try it again though.

Edit: I am also going to try and pressure wash it out and see if that helps.
 
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jodadejss06gt

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RJ I missed what pump you are going to use? I'm assuming the 5.8 billet backing plate pump. Are you going to use that by itself or throw gears in it? My pump should be arriving in the next day or so. Going to swap springs and put in billet gears.
 

W3bb3r04

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RJ I missed what pump you are going to use? I'm assuming the 5.8 billet backing plate pump. Are you going to use that by itself or throw gears in it? My pump should be arriving in the next day or so. Going to swap springs and put in billet gears.


I just bought a new 3v pump and going to swap the billet plate over
 

W3bb3r04

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Okay I will Bobby. I was going to try and have it done in 2 weeks but I think I'd rather take another week or two and make sure I do everything right
 
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W3bb3r04

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A little update. I'm dropping off the stuff at the machine shop tomorrow. I'm taking the block too to make sure it checks out. I may re ring or bore if worst case scenario. Plans are balancing rotating assembly and already have the crank turned
 

jodadejss06gt

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My parts are getting dropped off to the builder today. I'm hoping to get some updates as to what hes done already. He supposedly was going to break it down this week and start working on the heads. Fingers crossed.
 
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