Car is in a no start state. I was shifting gears getting on the highway, heard a pop and engine immediately cut out. No fluids leaking anywhere.Put a DVM across the battery terminals...and put the DVM on AC volts. If you read anything more than a few Mv (millivolts)... you got 1 or more shorted diodes inside the alternator. With 1 or more shorted diodes, you will be pumping raw AC into the battery. Raw AC will fuck up a battery very quickly. The (esp) pcm..and everything else wants to see pure DC. Simple test, that can be done in the driveway, with eng idling.
I'll go through all of the fuses and relays later and test them. Since almost all are a circuit failure.p0135: Heated Oxygen Sensor → Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction → Bank 1, Sensor 1
p0325: Knock Sensor “Bank 1” – Circuit Malfunction
p0330: Knock Sensor ” Bank 2″ – Circuit Malfunction
p0690: ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit Voltage High
There's probably one common cause for all of those codes, and my prime suspect is a faulty alternator diode causing a small AC current to leak into the main engine wiring harness.
I let the car sit for a week because of work and classes after the last incident and it fired right up today.It's not an O2 sensor (HO2S). I highly doubt it has anything to do with PATS as well.
I'll have to borrow a fluke from work since my dvm is real basic.See post #8. That will explain exactly how to test the Alternator.... ( the next time you can start it).
But you require a digital voltmeter... that will read AC voltage down to the millivolt range. The DVM also has to have block caps inside it, so when trying to measure AC ripple voltage, the block caps will block the 14.75 DCV from the battery. All Fluke dvms have block caps ( when using the ACV function).... but some DVM's don't have dc blocking caps...like my older B+K brand DVM.
It will take you all of 5 x secs to do the simple test...and while you are at it, measure the exact DC voltage on the battery terminals.