What MAF housing is that attached to the C&L intake?
I like that it's plastic and want it right meow.
What MAF housing is that attached to the C&L intake?
What MAF housing is that attached to the C&L intake?
I like that it's plastic and want it right meow.
How did you manage to get the C&L racer inlet tube to clear the stock hood and alternator? I tired every possible way to get the C&L inlet to fit with my Saleen VI blower, but it would not clear the stock hood and would also make contact with the alternator. Did you also end up having to lower the engine by installing adjustable motor mounts in order to clear the stock hood? Needless to say, I had no other choice but to reinstall the stock Saleen 98mm air-box with the optional Saleen plastic inlet upgrade that would clear both the stock hood and alternatorAll put back together and painted (post #25775). Spent the last few days detailing, put in a tow hook and other odds and ends. Had to get my daily driver in the pic as well.
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How did you manage to get the C&L racer inlet tube to clear the stock hood and alternator? I tired every possible way to get the C&L inlet to fit with my Saleen VI blower, but it would not clear the stock hood and would also make contact with the alternator. Did you also end up having to lower the engine by installing adjustable motor mounts in order to clear the stock hood? Needless to say, I had no other choice but to reinstall the stock Saleen 98mm air-box with the optional Saleen plastic inlet upgrade that would clear both the stock hood and alternator
Worked previously with the Prothane lower mounts. Then switched to the BMR K-member with lower mounts. Cleared the alternator with either no problem, but having the GT500 T/B does cause contact on the first band of the silicone reducer with the hood. You can see right behind the C&L emblem where the band rubs with the hood. I need a blue silicone reducer, but the cheapest I found is $65.
I did notice where the first band of the silicone reducer does make contact with the hood and it would appear that it's from the larger GT500 T/B as you mentioned. I also noticed from the image you posted that you also have the "Ford Performance Lightning 90mm MAF" which I assume you purchased from JDM engineering? I used to have the Steeda 90mm MAF CAI on my previous "05" GT which is almost exactly identical to your FP Lightning 90mm MAF" Perhaps if I had held onto my Steeda 90mm CAI, it might have raised the height of the C&L inlet tube enough to clear the relocation of the stock alternator from the Saleen VI blower? I also considered swapping out the stock motor mounts for the Prothane lower mounts but was concerned that having a lowered suspension may cause possible clearance issues, so in the end, I decided to stick with the stock motor mounts. Unless the stock Saleen 98mm MAF airbox is considered as a huge airflow restriction when compared to running a conical, open filter design? I might just as well leave the stock Saleen airbox system in place anyhow lol. At any rate, perhaps you might be able to locate a blue silicone reducer from Steeda Autosports for less than $65 Anyway, here are images of my previous "05" GT with the Steeda 90mm CAI.
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You sure did an awesome job washing it all up underneath, which is exactly what I need to do with mine lol. Btw: who's the manufacturer of your hood? as it definitely doesn't look like the stock GT hood. it's also good to know that you have no clearance issues with the Prothane lower mounts and Steeda lowering springs. In the meantime, looking forward to seeing the pic of the alternator clearance when you post itWashed it.... underneath! [emoji854][emoji15][emoji848]
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You sure did an awesome job washing it all up underneath, which is exactly what I need to do with mine lol. Btw: who's the manufacturer of your hood? as it definitely doesn't look like the stock GT hood. it's also good to know that you have no clearance issues with the Prothane lower mounts and Steeda lowering springs. In the meantime, looking forward to seeing the pic of the alternator clearance when you post it
Here are the pics.How did you manage to get the C&L racer inlet tube to clear the stock hood and alternator? I tired every possible way to get the C&L inlet to fit with my Saleen VI blower, but it would not clear the stock hood and would also make contact with the alternator. Did you also end up having to lower the engine by installing adjustable motor mounts in order to clear the stock hood? Needless to say, I had no other choice but to reinstall the stock Saleen 98mm air-box with the optional Saleen plastic inlet upgrade that would clear both the stock hood and alternator
My apologies for taking so long to reply back, had to reformat and reinstall windows 7 on the PC due to file corruption issues. On a lighter note, finally got to look at your alternator clearance pics and was curious if you replaced your alternator with the 2010 Denso unit or if it's the original OEM one? From the images you posted, it appears the alternator cable is well below the original location of the stock alternator? The plug location on my stock unit sits nearly right on top of the alternator which made direct contact with the underside of the C&L inlet tube. So I was also curious if you had the stock alternator re-clocked in order to provide enough clearance for the underside of the C&L inlet tube? Otherwise, if not? then it would appear that replacing the stock alternator with the 2010 Denso unit may be the possible solution for addressing the clearance issues In the meantime, thank you for taking and posting the clearance pics of your C&L inlet tube and alternatorHere are the pics.
The first one I couldn't get the camera low enough on the front, but the second shows there's enough room.
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My apologies for taking so long to reply back, had to reformat and reinstall windows 7 on the PC due to file corruption issues. On a lighter note, finally got to look at your alternator clearance pics and was curious if you replaced your alternator with the 2010 Denso unit or if it's the original OEM one? From the images you posted, it appears the alternator cable is well below the original location of the stock alternator? The plug location on my stock unit sits nearly right on top of the alternator which made direct contact with the underside of the C&L inlet tube. So I was also curious if you had the stock alternator re-clocked in order to provide enough clearance for the underside of the C&L inlet tube? Otherwise, if not? then it would appear that replacing the stock alternator with the 2010 Denso unit may be the possible solution for addressing the clearance issues In the meantime, thank you for taking and posting the clearance pics of your C&L inlet tube and alternator
I think your right about the stock alternator as being the cause for the clearance issues I was having with the C&L inlet tube. Being that my stock alternator is 13 years old, it's only a matter of time before its going to need replaced anyhow, so rather than take the risk of something going wrong by attempting to re-clock the stock alternator myself, I'll just replace it by upgrading to the Motorcraft 2010 Denso alternator thru Department Of Boost.It's a PA Performance alternator. And yes, re-clocked it. I can't even remember what a stock alternator looks like, so maybe that's why you were having clearance issues. Pretty you can re-clock the stock one as well.
This is from tmcolegr:
· Remove pulley. Remove the 3 machine screws holding alternator housings together. CAREFULLY tap on front housing (pulley end) to loosen it from center section of alternator. Do NOT allow center section to loosen from rear frame. Rotate front frame of alternator counter clockwise (when viewed from the front/pulley end) 120 degrees. Reassemble in reverse order.
You'll still need to clock it unless they'll do it for you.I think your right about the stock alternator as being the cause for the clearance issues I was having with the C&L inlet tube. Being that my stock alternator is 13 years old, it's only a matter of time before its going to need replaced anyhow, so rather than take the risk of something going wrong by attempting to re-clock the stock alternator myself, I'll just replace it by upgrading to the Motorcraft 2010 Denso alternator thru Department Of Boost.