What have you done to your mustang today?

[Miker]

Thought someone tried to break into my car. I went to get in it and the door handle opened the door but did not retract. Seems it is a common thing. So I got in there and the mechanism on the handle was tweaked. It has plastic ears holding a pivoting lever and they had spread enough to let one of the tiny nubs slip out of its hole. What a stupid fucking design. Any way I put it back into place and used a small C clamt to close the gap. I marked that position on the clamp and then removed the pivoting arm completely. Then I put the C clamp back on the plastic ears and wound it down to the same marked position plus a bit more maybe an 1/8 of an inch. Then slowly heated the plastic up with a heat gun. Let it cool and then reinstalled the pivot and spring. It was a bit of a struggle as the plastic took a good set to the slightly closed position. Re installed everything and as a bonus installed the rod for the key lock that was undone. I also discovered what I think to be after market speakers. I am hoping my fix holds but I will be surprised if it does The nubs of that pivot are only halfway through the mount even with the ears compressed. If it fails again I am going to drill through the nubs and slide a steel shaft all the way through with circlips on each side.

 

[Miker]

Anyone recognize those speakers? Nd VII?

 

[Miker]

Looks like a mid and a tweeter.

 

[Miker]

My helper.

 

[oldVOR]

I had the same failure on the driver handle and about a year later the passenger handle on a 2005 GT around 2017/18.
Used the same method of heating the plastic to form it tighter and reassembling. Both handles went about a year before failing again, at which point I bought new handles and painted them to match.

 

[AHaze]

Anyone recognize those speakers? Nd VII?

Those are the OE speakers, at least on the Shaker equipped cars. Had the same ones in my '05

 

[JC SSP]

This should be a sticky for future use.

 

[Miker]

Those are the OE speakers, at least on the Shaker equipped cars. Had the same ones in my '05

Good to know. Thanks

 

[Miker]

I'll do a better write up when it falls and I drill it out.

 

[86GT351]

Sent to Chassis Shop to start the project. Will be done in 3 stages. Stage 1 is to remove current suspension and upgrade to a complete UPR Front and Rear Suspension. First time seeing daylight in a few years.

 

[86GT351]

Next Day

 

[JC SSP]

You welding up those torque boxes? LOL

SN95 or SVO rear discs?

 

[GriffX]

Mounted my DIY undertray prototype from the K-member to the radiator support and in front of the tires, was a lot of
work and countless hours.

.

 

[86GT351]

You welding up those torque boxes? LOL

SN95 or SVO rear discs?

Todays project and then the behind bars race cars fuel tank and magnafuel fuel pump

 

[Gabe]

Got the new Jeg's fuel pump installed. 400lph of Made In China fuel delivery power.
Couldn't get the locking ring fully twisted back on, it just wouldn't click into final place. Ordered a tool off Amazon to hopefully help me lock it fully.
It's a little different than the stock pump, but the car runs and revs fine. Haven't driven it yet. And still need to get a new tune of course.
The last picture shows the jumper wires at the fuel pump driver module connector, so that when I'd turn the key, the pump would pump continuously, so that I would get as much of the fuel out of the tank as possible, to avoid spills during the swap. I had disconnected the fuel line at the pump and had a line going from it right into a 5-gallon gas can. This was per an awesome recommendation from somebody on here a few posts ago, thank you for that.

 

[JimC]

Did a couple of things today, with temperature in the 60's I wasn't afraid that I was going to break something (or freeze my fingers!)

Got the "PULL" handle installed in the trunk. No more grabbing the trunk lid to close it.


And got the J&L oil catch can installed. With the strut tower brace the engine cover doesn't slide out so I had to either pull the brace or slide the cover around and back and forth to work on it. It would have been easier with the cover fully off.

It mounts to a bracket on the driver side, but the hoses route under the engine cover and other things across to the "dirty" side on the passenger. Connect to the passenger side valve cover and the intake between the throttle bodies. Not a lot of room to work with. Took it for a drive and everything seems to be fine, no air leaks.


From driver over to passenger


Connection of passenger side

 

[2008_ScarlettGT]

Cleaned it up. Going to take it to work tomorrow morning for the first time this year.

 

[rocknrod]

Changed out the tail lights with Raxiom 5's. Before and after.

 

[Candy10]

Yes, definitely a classic combo. When I first met my wife and she had just gotten it about 2 months earlier, she was telling me she wasn't in love with the white, I told her that's crazy, it's THE classic combo.
Also, I keep saying that if/when I get a GT500, it will have to be blue with white stripes, her exact opposite

Today I replaced the rear bump stops in my '13. I recently found that the left one had basically split open, broke apart or whatever. Guess I may have cut it down a bit too much and one too many bumps.

View attachment 83555


I went with Maximum Motorsports ones, which as it turns out are nothing more than Eibach pieces. When I googled the part number I came up with front Honda Civic applications. Interesting to think that I now have front Civic bumpstops in the rear of my Mustang. Not sure how I feel about that, lol

View attachment 83556


To install them you have to remove the old rubber pieces and insert the new MM/Eibach rubbers upsidedown. I sprayed the metal bracket with a little detail spray to make the insertion of the new stops much easier.


View attachment 83557

View attachment 83558

Sorry to quote this old post, but came up in my search. On a recent drive I went over a pretty decent dip and received a nice "clunk" from the rear. Checked everything out when i got home and the driver side bump stop in completely missing. It was cut years ago when I lowered the car, and was probably just degraded enough to fall out. How did these stops end up working out for you? Did you stick with them or end up changing to something not Honda. Thanks

 

[Gabe]

Sorry to quote this old post, but came up in my search. On a recent drive I went over a pretty decent dip and received a nice "clunk" from the rear. Checked everything out when i got home and the driver side bump stop in completely missing. It was cut years ago when I lowered the car, and was probably just degraded enough to fall out. How did these stops end up working out for you? Did you stick with them or end up changing to something not Honda. Thanks

They're still in the car, still working.
No weird noises.
In fact I recently removed my Watts Link and went back to the adjustable panhard bar, and that in itself quieted things down a bunch more.
Love the ride now.
Still debating if I want to sell the BMR Watts Link though