What have you done to your mustang today?

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Bought a bone stock '10 GT Premium just short of 6 years ago. Modifications have been slowly implemented over the last couple of seasons.

Suspension...
◦ Eibach Coil Spring Pro-Kit
◦ KONI Yellow Adjustable.
◦ BMR Panhard Bar On-Car Adjustable
◦ Specialty Products Company Caster Camber Plate

Motor...
◦ Detroit Rocker Cams
◦ Kooks Longtube Headers/catted H pipe
◦ JLT Cold Air Intake
◦ Ford Racing Intake Manifold
◦ Ford Racing Throttle Body
◦ Ford Racing Valve Covers (blue)

As of yesterday...
Wheels (Weld Forged Aluminum RT-S S71)
◦ Front - 18"x8.5" (Backspace 5.7, Offset +24)
◦ Rear - 18"x10.5" (Backspace 7.7, Offset +50)

Tires (Mickey Thompson)
Front (Street_Comps)
◦ P255/45R18 [27X10]
Rear (ET_Street_S/S)
◦ P275/45R18 [28X11]
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Forty61

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Drove it to work again today.. horrible squeak coming from somewhere. Initially I had a similar noise under light braking that would go away with pressure, so I replaced the brakes and finally got around to bleeding them, they were silent at first but now it's a persistent squeak that changes pitch with speed so it's obviously on one of the corners somewhere. I can't hear it unless I'm driving alongside a concrete barrier and then it's obnoxious with the window down.

I need to see if it still goes away under firm braking or not and then figure out a way to narrow it down that's not trying to hang my head out the window at 65mph. I'm hoping it's just a dust shield or something dumb and I won't be replacing hub bearings or brakes again..

EDIT: I ran to the hardware store and the squeak goes away when gently pressing the pedal now, so complete opposite of the issue I had before..
 
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07 Boss

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Drove it to work again today.. horrible squeak coming from somewhere. Initially I had a similar noise under light braking that would go away with pressure, so I replaced the brakes and finally got around to bleeding them, they were silent at first but now it's a persistent squeak that changes pitch with speed so it's obviously on one of the corners somewhere. I can't hear it unless I'm driving alongside a concrete barrier and then it's obnoxious with the window down.

I need to see if it still goes away under firm braking or not and then figure out a way to narrow it down that's not trying to hang my head out the window at 65mph. I'm hoping it's just a dust shield or something dumb and I won't be replacing hub bearings or brakes again..

EDIT: I ran to the hardware store and the squeak goes away when gently pressing the pedal now, so complete opposite of the issue I had before..

You might have a slightly sticking caliper. It might be that it is not releasing all of the way and staying in slight contact with the rotor. That's why it goes away when you press the brakes and is intermittent.
 

Forty61

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You might have a slightly sticking caliper. It might be that it is not releasing all of the way and staying in slight contact with the rotor. That's why it goes away when you press the brakes and is intermittent.

The fact it responded to pressure led me to think the same thing.. I guess I'll start by praying to the car gods for it to self heal on my drive home. If not, my buddy is coming tomorrow to help fix, coincidentally, brakes on my truck so maybe after a few beers we can dig into the Mustang too.
 

graybeard

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What did I do to the 2005 GT today? Nothing except collect dust while I reviewed some specs comparing the 2005 GT with a 2014 V6 automatic.
I noticed that the HP of the stock '05 GT V8 and the stock '14 Mustang V6 were both 300HP.

Are both of these simiar in power and performance?
(both being automatics)
 

StockishS197

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What did I do to the 2005 GT today? Nothing except collect dust while I reviewed some specs comparing the 2005 GT with a 2014 V6 automatic.
I noticed that the HP of the stock '05 GT V8 and the stock '14 Mustang V6 were both 300HP.

Are both of these simiar in power and performance?
(both being automatics)
It would be decently close, but the GT has 40 more lb ft of torque down low.

It would really come down to the driver and gearing of both cars, with the edge to the GT.
 
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What did I do to the 2005 GT today? Nothing except collect dust while I reviewed some specs comparing the 2005 GT with a 2014 V6 automatic.
I noticed that the HP of the stock '05 GT V8 and the stock '14 Mustang V6 were both 300HP.

Are both of these simiar in power and performance?
(both being automatics)
Actually the Cyclone V-6 was rated at 305 HP in the 2014 Mustang. I have a tune and 3.35 axle and womp stock 3 valves everytime. My 2012 V6 is the fastest car I ever owned. 0 t0 60 in 5 seconds flat and still gets near 30MPG at 70mph. I know that sounds slow now but to an old man like me it is heaven.
 

Gabe

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I drove mine to work yesterday.
It had been a while since I had driven it. The gas prices really put a damper on things, barely drive my truck anymore even. Mostly driving my wife's '19 Golf Alltrack 6-speed, a car that's fun in its own way (tuned, AWD wagon :D ).

Yes, the Advancetrac is off, the only way I drive the car. :biggrin:

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MrBhp

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Finally replaced the On3 supplied remote oil filter lines and the junk Steeda catch can. It was their little plastic one. I didn't expect much, and that's exactly what I got. It got me by for awhile. Anyway, pics...
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GlassTop09

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Finally replaced the On3 supplied remote oil filter lines and the junk Steeda catch can. It was their little plastic one. I didn't expect much, and that's exactly what I got. It got me by for awhile. Anyway, pics...
View attachment 116073View attachment 116074
Hey MrBhp,

Are the PCV & EVAP line connectors you're using at your OEM IM the same ones that come stock?
Unless my eyes are deceiving me, they sure do look like them.............

May I ask........how much boost you running on them?

Wanting to know as I'm starting to get the itch again to look into going FI..........most likely centri for me though (mainly for the experience of actually tuning it myself...........), nothing larger than a self-oiled Paxton NOVI 1200 SL air-to-air intercooled using 6-8 psi boost max.......more than enough to blow up a SBE 4.6L 3V & the least involved type FI setup IMHO from a maintenance POV........which at my current stage of health condition.......is becoming a FAR more important factor in my choices nowadays.................

Any info given will be appreciated.
 

MrBhp

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My guess is that you're concerned about that connection holding pressure. I don't have any trouble hitting 19 psi, unfortunately. I don't think it leaks. Haven't noticed any dirt buildup around it. I'm on my second check valve in that line. I noticed the dip stick was pushed out after a run. It started doing it every time I built boost. So I've gone to a larger, better check. If I have trouble with this one, I'll go to a flapper style and hopefully be done with it. I'm going to install a vacuum/pressure gauge in that line to keep an eye on it.
 

eBokey

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Took it out of winter storage and replaced the rear lower control arms and panhard bar. Went with BMR polyurethane bushing non-adjustable since ride height is stock

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GlassTop09

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My guess is that you're concerned about that connection holding pressure. I don't have any trouble hitting 19 psi, unfortunately. I don't think it leaks. Haven't noticed any dirt buildup around it. I'm on my second check valve in that line. I noticed the dip stick was pushed out after a run. It started doing it every time I built boost. So I've gone to a larger, better check. If I have trouble with this one, I'll go to a flapper style and hopefully be done with it. I'm going to install a vacuum/pressure gauge in that line to keep an eye on it.
TBH my man, my reaction is more from surprise.........me seeing your usage of them in tandem w\ all of the AN fittings\hosing actually answered\gave clarity to the base question of holding positive pressure under boost---my curiosity, thus my posting, was getting a feel for HOW MUCH positive boost pressure they could hold.........your answer of running these under 19 psi of boost pressure w\o the connectors failing (the OEM plastic connector's latch design keeping them in place under that much positive pressure was more of a concern to me than the inner O-ring seal when thinking the original design criteria for those connectors was for operation under neg pressure or vacuum........thus wouldn't be able to handle much positive pressure at all.......say like 1-2 psi at most..............not 19 psi.......) just gave\provided even more clarity.

Your picture just blew that prior conception of mine right out of the water................I'm also grateful that you posted them thus now shows creditable evidence that these connectors are much stronger than 1 might think they are & can be successfully used under other operating conditions\criteria w\o issue other than what Ford may have originally designed these for.

For me, this is good info to know...........

Sometimes in this business, the only way some things can be known is simply to try it...........IOW's, test it...........not speculate.

Now...........just what else you got in your bag that you ain't letting out.........bruh? :biggrin:

:beer:
 

MrBhp

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TBH my man, my reaction is more from surprise.........me seeing your usage of them in tandem w\ all of the AN fittings\hosing actually answered\gave clarity to the base question of holding positive pressure under boost---my curiosity, thus my posting, was getting a feel for HOW MUCH positive boost pressure they could hold.........your answer of running these under 19 psi of boost pressure w\o the connectors failing (the OEM plastic connector's latch design keeping them in place under that much positive pressure was more of a concern to me than the inner O-ring seal when thinking the original design criteria for those connectors was for operation under neg pressure or vacuum........thus wouldn't be able to handle much positive pressure at all.......say like 1-2 psi at most..............not 19 psi.......) just gave\provided even more clarity.

Your picture just blew that prior conception of mine right out of the water................I'm also grateful that you posted them thus now shows creditable evidence that these connectors are much stronger than 1 might think they are & can be successfully used under other operating conditions\criteria w\o issue other than what Ford may have originally designed these for.

For me, this is good info to know...........

Sometimes in this business, the only way some things can be known is simply to try it...........IOW's, test it...........not speculate.

Now...........just what else you got in your bag that you ain't letting out.........bruh? :biggrin:

:beer:
Exactly! I couldn't find a definitive answer to the pressure holding capacity of the OEM connection. I found as much evidence for as I did against. Most guys are removing the pcv system and venting to atmos. I don't like the smell of crankcase vapors in my cabin air, so I figured I would try it. Of course, it may be leaking a little. No real way to tell, as far as I can see. But it's definitely not enough to cause any negative effects. I wonder if it would just blow off. I did find, during my research, someone replaced the IM fitting with a positive connection. The IM will probably fail with repeated high boost levels at some point.

Btw, I've only hit 19 psi once, and that was not intentional. I had been playing with the e-Boost and set my upper limit high. You don't enter actual boost numbers, just a percentage of 100 in the context of available boost pressure. (Which is limited to 3 times the WG spring) So, I was working on quicker spooling, (which worked) but in the process raised my high limit.
 

Forty61

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Looked at my brakes after driving to work to try nail down the squeak.. I saw one of the abutment clips (had to Google that, I always just called it the hardware) walked out away from the hub and I could push it back in with my finger.. after doing that and running to the store the noise was still there but more intermittent so I grabbed a whole new set of hardware from Napa, gonna change those out on that one corner and see if that cures my noise. Fingers crossed!
 

graybeard

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Badd GT,
For me the colour is taking some time to get use to.

My ex, in her normal and gracious way, stated the colour looks like vomit.

The car was not purchased because of the colour, but rather because of all the new and near new parts on it, and the overall condtion of the body and power train.

Thanks for the encouragement.

Colour was last.
 

cavero

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Could be worse, don't see
Badd GT,
For me the colour is taking some time to get use to.

My ex, in her normal and gracious way, stated the colour looks like vomit.

The car was not purchased because of the colour, but rather because of all the new and near new parts on it, and the overall condtion of the body and power train.

Thanks for the encouragement.

Colour was last.

Could be worse (Inca gold on the 2010). I've seen Legend Lime look good before, just like Tungsten it has to be clean and have a deep gloss to it (and even then looks it's best when it's not mid-day). If you do some clay bar, maybe some polishing it'd probably do it wonders.

Or there's always the vinyl wrap route, can make it any color you want :shrug:
 

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