Where does extra sound insulation make the most difference?

GlassTop09

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Got my DynaMat Xtreme sound deadner kit Firday but am too worn out\sore from replacing all bearings\races in rear axle so this work will be slated to start this coming weekend (need some recovery time).
 

crjackson

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I’m watching this thread too. I’d love to rid my car from all the interior noise I can.
 

crjackson

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The trunk floor plus the spare wheel/rear wheel wells would be the obvious places to start.
I agree, and I would add that under the rear seat is a target too. Especially since the R/UCA attaches there. I would think it has the possibility of being pretty effective there as well.
 
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GriffX

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The metal under the rear seat is very stiff, there is not so much effect from alubutyl there, I had the impression that the damping foam/fiber had a bigger effect. In the link
you can see where they place the butyl under the seat are the most effective areas.
 

GlassTop09

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The metal under the rear seat is very stiff, there is not so much effect from alubutyl there, I had the impression that the damping foam/fiber had a bigger effect. In the link
you can see where they place the butyl under the seat are the most effective areas.
Thanks for this .pdf! I have backed my Stang under the carport & have pulled the rear seat out to inspect\test area & I ID'd every spot under the rear seat that this .pdf showed to apply this before seeing it by just using my index finger & tapping on the metal. Getting ready to start on this project this evening (vac out & clean up then apply under the rear seat & trunk area just behind the rear seat backs........plan on hitting the trunk area the next day).
 

crjackson

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I have backed my Stang under the carport & have pulled the rear seat out to inspect\test area & I ID'd every spot under the rear seat that this .pdf showed to apply this before seeing it by just using my index finger & tapping on the metal. Getting ready to start on this project this evening (vac out & clean up then apply under the rear seat & trunk area just behind the rear seat backs........plan on hitting the trunk area the next day).
I look forward to your report. Depending on your results, I may follow suit. Your advice have been really helpful and I appreciate that. Thanks.
 

GlassTop09

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Finished putting the Dynamat sound deadner in this morning. I used the Ford AcoustiShield.pdf that GriffX provided (appreciate it, thanks! :beer:) as a guide to know where to put the Dynamat under the rear seat & trunk area, but I used larger pieces of Dynamat wherever I could than what was shown to use but still put it all where the .pdf showed to put it. This stuff is very easy to apply.......especially if you use a heat gun to heat up the cleaned-up metal surfaces before applying it.......makes it roll out very quick, easy & it really adheres well on heated metal.......more work cleaning up the metal surfaces & measuring\cutting out the desired pieces than applying it.

Took car on a 120 mi run (had audio turned off for approx 1\3 of the way) to evaluate the results. I can report that just doing the immediate area under the rear seat & trunk area made a world of difference.......this Dynamat Xtreme really killed off a LOT of unibody resonant reverberation (what it is specifically designed for) in which I noticed that by doing so, this cleaned up\reduced all other sound\noise (no resonance, no amplification, no distortion) to the point that I found that I could easily & clearly hear myself talking in a much lowered voice volume above all other noise (mostly my Pypes M80 resonant mufflers--hanging under rear seat area under gas tank shield & Super Bomb 4" x 14" resonator tips--mounted under the trunk area where the OEM chambered mufflers would be).....damn things sound very light but clean in cabin now since this Dynamat Xtreme arrested a lot of the resonance frequencies generated in unibody thru the rear seat & trunk area. Road\tire noise was also reduced by a fair amount as well. The faint rear gear hum generated from the rear axle diff was reduced to the point of it essentially blending into the background noise, so this is a very good result.

At speed the car is now a dream to ride in...............

The even better result I noted was that by killing off a lot of resonance in the rear seat, trunk area of unibody from outside sources, this REALLY helped my Kenwood audio system's bass & mid-range sound\response (rear shelf speakers exhaust into trunk area behind rear seat) since there wasn't enough rear seat, trunk generated resonance from outside sources to distort the bass & mid-range frequencies coming from the rear shelf speakers anymore, the sound came back much cleaner w\ a lot more thump w\o creating distortion........now THIS was worth it all by itself! I can now crank her up to damn near full volume before I start hearing parts of rear seat side panels & front kick panels start reverb'ing off my door-mounted sub woofers & rear shelf speakers! :happythumbs:

I bought 18 sq ft of Dynamat Xtreme (9-12" x 24" sheets) & applied right at 1\2 of it (approx 9 sq ft), so I got a lot of it left over to use elsewhere (I also applied any leftover scraps in other areas under rear seat\trunk to use it up instead of throwing it away so the only thing I threw away was the paper backing off the adhesive side).

I'm sold..............

In conclusion, if you haven't already done this yet..............DO IT as soon as you can!

Appreciate all who contributed to this thread..................:beer:
 

crjackson

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Thanks for the followup, it will certainly be one of my next improvements. I’m anxious to rid my car of the last bit of annoying resonance.
 

GlassTop09

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FYI.........................

I've also picked up a box of Dynamat Dynaliner 1\4" foam sound deadener (approx 12 sq ft) to use on the inside of both headliner trim pieces above both doors & on inside of both kick panels (SJB cover & rollover inertia switch cover) to deaden any noise\rattling coming from these plastic parts getting loose in their fasteners over the years from loss of tension.

Haven't gotten around to installing it yet but is in the plan to do so before next weekend (got an upcoming road trip so planning to take my Stang on it to put some long miles on her to see how she fares since doing all the sound deadening & tuning work on her).

Will report back on how it all goes sound wise.

PS edit--Have just gotten backsides of both headliner trim pieces above both doors lined w\ this Dynamat Dynaliner 1\4" foam sound deadener this evening......really tightened up both pieces fit to upper unibody so these shouldn't be making any more rattling noises. Got dark enough on me to break off for the night so I plan to pull both kick panels sometime tomorrow & line the back side of both of them w\ some of this Dynaliner 1\4" foam sound deadener to stop any rattling noises coming from\thru them as well.

PS edit (10-29-23)--Just got done putting Dynaliner foam sound deadener on the backsides of both kick panels so I've now got all this done & out of the way. Didn't take any pictures of any of this simply due to I forgot to do it until I had already reinstalled it all...........was a little sore as well so was distracted some also.........................sorry.

Now to take her on a drive & see what improvements.......if any.......I got from doing this.

FYI.........................
 
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GlassTop09

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FYI............................

Just got back from my drive to test the Dynaliner out I installed inside of both door A-pillar trim moldings (finally remembered what these were called) & on the inside of both kick panels & I was pretty shocked at just how much of a difference this made to the interior sound environment......really shocked.

I didn't think this little application of 1\4" Dynamat Dynaliner foam deadener would do this well as I really didn't realize just how much my Kenwood Excelon DNX995S Head Unit\Kenwood KAC-M1814 4ch 400W amp audio system's sound output was being affected by these pieces resonating. The car is so quiet inside now it is almost serene.......similar to being inside of a cheap sound booth.......can hardly pick up any outside noises above the Kenwood system's audio output & it's not even cranked up (was set @ 10) w\ nary a rattle or vibrating piece.......even when I drove over some small pot holes in the road surface.......got that close to new car vibe going on now, which is gonna be GREAT for long road trips!

I estimate that in doing this I used approx a little over 2 1\2 sq ft of Dynaliner to do these pieces so I got a LOT of this left over so whenever I feel froggy enough to pull both rear seat side panels down to put some Dynamat on the inner wheel wells, I'll certainly line the back side of these panels w\ some Dynaliner at the same time.

This should finish my car off in style as it is very damn quiet as it is now w\ Dynamat covering the trunk & under rear seat areas & Dynaliner lining the backsides of both A-pillar trim moldings & both kick panels.

Needless to say............I'm stoked right now!

:head3:
 

GriffX

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FYI............................

Just got back from my drive to test the Dynaliner out I installed inside of both door A-pillar trim moldings (finally remembered what these were called) & on the inside of both kick panels & I was pretty shocked at just how much of a difference this made to the interior sound environment......really shocked.
You covered the back of the long A-pillar plastic molding?

Had a long heavy rain trip on the Autobahn last week, almost no water splash sound from the rear anymore - yes
 

GlassTop09

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You covered the back of the long A-pillar plastic molding?
Yes. I've known for quite some time that the retainer clips have loosened up some over time & also due to these A-pillar moldings having been removed more than once (I removed them myself back in summer 2018 to replace the glass roof's sliding sunshade cover & discovered that 1 of the mounting screws that held it in place was missing, indicating that I wasn't the only 1 that had been here)......and there is some plastic spacing molded inside of these pillar moldings designed to prevent A-pillar molding getting collapsed when reattaching the clips into the unibody that can vibrate against the unibody if these mounting clips get a little loose w\ their clamping grip or the plastic tabs these metal clips are attached to fatigue\break off or the Velcro mount that attaches the front of A-pillar to unibody that also locks into the dash is either missing or has lost "adhesion" then A-pillar molding will be loose & more susceptible to vibration thus rattling (found 1 of these on each A-pillar molding had broken off.....super glued 1 of them back on--the end clip that attaches to the plastic rear seat side panel--but the other 1 wouldn't reglue but some good ole Velcro took care of this).

I placed the Dynaliner foam sound deadener inside of A-pillars over this square plastic molding spacing to eliminate this part of molding hitting the unibody & to tighten them up when the clips reengage into the unibody. I got the 1/4" vers due to also intending to do both kick panels & eventually both rear seat side panels, but for the A-pillars, I think 1\8" Dynaliner will also work to cut the vibration down\deaden noise but may not provide as much tension to tighten the clips up that much over what they would be w\o it.

If yours aren't loose\vibrating or making noise, then IMHO leave them alone........

PS edit--BTW, according to Dynamat, they recommend using this Dynamat Dynaliner foam sound deadener over any Dynamat Xtreme butyl applied to get the maximum sound & resonance deadening\temp control\sound isolation effects possible thru both products when combined.
I thought about using some 1/8" Dynaliner to line my trunk & under rear seat areas where I've applied the Dynamat Xtreme butyl but from my results gained from the Dynamat Xtreme usage alone, I'll pass on doing this in my case.
 
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GriffX

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I remember some TSB for A-pillar rattling, my spacer came loose also and I glued it back on. I took it out more than once.

I haven't done anything to the floor yet and the effect is huge so far, should have done this at day one I got the car.
 

GriffX

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Removed the B-pillar/window cover at the seat belt upper mount point. There is a connected room from the roof, B-pillar to the rear wheel between the inner and outer sheet metals. Blocked it with acoustic polyester wool at the connection to the roof, but need to order more. And, the shell below the seat belt rolling mechanism rattles like crazy.
When I have more material I will take it out and put the polyester wool/fleece inside up to the wheel well.
 
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