With the Summer months and Heat in full effect, How hot is too hot?

94tbird

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With extracting heat, yes, I know. That keeps the temp differential larger. When pulling heat out, like when in a radiator, you can most certainly move it too fast. The longer is sits in the radiator, the farther the temp will fall. You're applying simple fluid dynamics incorrectly.

you are also applying it to an incorrect platform.

you cannot move the fluid too quickly. Its no different than an intercooler system.
 

CPRsm

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How so ?

Like an A/W, the faster you move the water the better because of a bigger temp difference. In an A/A or A/W, either one, the longer it stays in the core the more heat will be pulled out. Faster through the engine is better because there will be a larger temp difference.

Engine is 200 deg, water coming in is 110. The faster you bring in the cooler water the faster it will cool the engine. Speed up the water going through the radiator and it will not cool faster. It needs to be in the radiator longer to get the out going water temp down to 110. You can also speed up the cfm across the core and that would help cool it faster, just like more water would cool inlets better. But since cfm is constant at speed all you can do is slow the water in the radiator. You do that with a higher t-stat. I hope you don't think I was talking about too fast in the engine.
 

94tbird

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because its a sealed system. your thinknig exactly how i used to think before i was educated on the subject.
 

CPRsm

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So you don't think longer in a radiator or IC will bring the temp down farther ?
 

tmcolegr

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ford had a big problem with the town car fans and fan resistors back from 2000-2007 or 08 but its the same fan design and resistor design as the mustang.
the tsb fix was to replace both the fan and resistor as an assembly with an update part.
if i can find that tsb ill try to send it to you and see if the symptoms listed are what you are having...


Ok I just looked through all the TSBs on 2000 - 2008 Lincoln Town Car, Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis and did find 1 TSB that applied to 2006 - 2007 MY vehicles as it pertains to fan motor failures. Doesn't really say a whole lot other than to replace the fan motor.

Ron PM me with your email address if you would like a copy
 

94tbird

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So you don't think longer in a radiator or IC will bring the temp down farther ?

not in this case no. you arent talking about a lot of fluid here, iirc its less than 2 gallons. a majority of it is in the radiator/tank as it is.

The issue isnt the flow, no matter how much you push the issue. The setup has worked in the past, and worked very well where i would see a max temp of 170-180 regardless of outside heat. The pump was the same, the fan was the same, ect. nothing physically has changed. I checked hte pump and it pumps. I know the high speed fan works, but i need to test for the low speed fan. Im not losing any coolant, there are no leaks.

I did adjust my fan settings a moment ago. Not sure how much itll make a difference, but:

Low: 180 to 170
High: 194 to 180

This is where i used to have the settings in my prior tune. I have since been retuned and those are the settings my tuner used, so i adjusted back to what i know worked in the past.

I checked the fan electrical connector and its clean and fine.

Ok I just looked through all the TSBs on 2000 - 2008 Lincoln Town Car, Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis and did find 1 TSB that applied to 2006 - 2007 MY vehicles as it pertains to fan motor failures. Doesn't really say a whole lot other than to replace the fan motor.

Ron PM me with your email address if you would like a copy

will do, thank you.
 

94tbird

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it also seems that part number you posted is used for every mustang out there since 05, including v6's and 2011 and 2012. man the price came down too. you said list was 340, now its 130, haha
 

SilentScope

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let me know if you want me to make you a slim fan shroud with a 3000 CFM 16" fan, like i made for lightblade.

its a cooling god.
 

94tbird

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Just thought I would share some information about this new fan assembly. The fan, motor & shroud look identical to the 2005 assembly. What is different is the resistor. This is the same resistor that Thump_rrr said was in the circuit but not shown on the wiring schematic. The resistor is mounted to the shroud where the harness plugs into the assembly. The resistor is for the low speed side of the fan only. The resistor has 3 wires coming in (low speed from the relay, high speed from the relay and a ground) and 2 wires going to the fan motor. The resistor is not serviced separately. The fan motor speed is controlled by the resistor. When the resistor fails, the low speed side of the fan does not work. Take a look at the attached pictures. Looks like the resistor for 2007 (silver in color) is definitely changed from the 2005 (green in color).

thats from the other thread and describes my problem exactly.

Im gonig to order the new resistor. heres a link to one, $40 bucks
 

94tbird

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let me know if you want me to make you a slim fan shroud with a 3000 CFM 16" fan, like i made for lightblade.

its a cooling god.

shoot me a price quote. If this resistor doesnt solve my issues, then I will go your route for sure.
 

SilentScope

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shoot me a price quote. If this resistor doesnt solve my issues, then I will go your route for sure.

$400 shipped, maybe less even. Its thick gauge steel, 12 ga i believe, and if you look at my thread about them you can see how much space it saves pus it pulls much more air. stock is 1900 CFM.

Light blade has pics too.

i still have my dual 12" setup but the 16" is much better.

on my phone, sorry for being short.
 

94tbird

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$400 shipped, maybe less even. Its thick gauge steel, 12 ga i believe, and if you look at my thread about them you can see how much space it saves pus it pulls much more air. stock is 1900 CFM.

Light blade has pics too.

i still have my dual 12" setup but the 16" is much better.

on my phone, sorry for being short.

can you mount the coolant tank and power steering tank to it? includes the fans i presume?
 

CPRsm

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not in this case no. you arent talking about a lot of fluid here, iirc its less than 2 gallons. a majority of it is in the radiator/tank as it is.

The issue isnt the flow, no matter how much you push the issue. The setup has worked in the past, and worked very well where i would see a max temp of 170-180 regardless of outside heat. The pump was the same, the fan was the same, ect. nothing physically has changed. I checked hte pump and it pumps. I know the high speed fan works, but i need to test for the low speed fan. Im not losing any coolant, there are no leaks.
I'm not pushing the issue as being flow. I simply said don't rule it out. But you saying the faster it moves the better it will work just isn't the case. That only applies when water is doing the heat extraction. Most every car I have worked on has about 4 gallons, block and radiator though..?
 

94tbird

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I'm not pushing the issue as being flow. I simply said don't rule it out. But you saying the faster it moves the better it will work just isn't the case. That only applies when water is doing the heat extraction. Most every car I have worked on has about 4 gallons, block and radiator though..?

Likie i said IIRC, thats if i recall correctly. The system has worked in the past, so the issue remains elsewhere. I appreciate your insight and thoughts, but flow isnt my issue.
 

CPRsm

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Likie i said IIRC, thats if i recall correctly. The system has worked in the past, so the issue remains elsewhere. I appreciate your insight and thoughts, but flow isnt my issue.
Sorry, not trying to push the issue of flow. Only said to look originally, but we got OT.

For lo pro, these are the best thing I have found. Low cfm rating, but work better than anything else. Cheap flat blade design, not even the good style, but really works well. Pulls more than other I have tried rated at over 3000 cfm. I see surface temps on the rad drop over 40 deg in about 3 sec.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4852/
This one doesn't cover the whole radiator, but works well on mine with 1k hp. If you had the room you could also get a cheap shroud made out of aluminum and it would work even better. Probably get one made for 40-60 bucks.


If you can fit these, you better hold on.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16927/
 

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