Yoke Removal TR3650

Exit Wounds

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Hey guys, struggling with replacing the output shaft seal on my 06 GT. Able to get the nut off the yolk, but can't get the yolk to come free from the trans shaft (TR3650). I rented a puller from Auto Zone with no luck. Just cranked it down so tight I was afraid of damaging the shaft. Is there a special tool specific for this process? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 

rocky61201

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Any 2 or 3 jaw puller should do the job. I bought a small/medium/large 3 jaw puller set from Harbor Freight and the medium one works just fine. I've removed the output flange (yolk) more than a few times. It can be a mofo sometimes. You might have to use a long breaker bar with the right size socket on the puller to get started.

Also, spray it with some PB blaster or liquid wrench. You might have some surface rust stopping you from getting started on the pull.

The output shaft is very sturdy and I doubt you can damage it unless you take apart the transmission and whack it with a sledge hammer. Never heard of anyone breaking one at the drag strip either. The input shaft is usually the first thing to break on a solid launch.

Last thing is for putting the flange back on. You can use the nut/metal washer to drive the flange back on but, DO NOT use the rubber washer. You will tear it up. After you drive the flange back on, remove the nut/metal washer. Then put the rubber washer in there and then the metal washer/nut and torque to specs.

If you have an impact wrench this is a one person job. If not you will need another set of hands and the right tool to hold the flange steady while you tighten the nut and drive the flange on. You can also use the impact the remove the flange if you have the right socket combination to hook up to the puller.
 
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1950StangJump$

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I had trouble with that yoke too, OP. Keep working it.

P.S. Be sure it's your output shaft seal that is leaking and not the shift shaft seal right above it. Ask me how I know.
 

eighty6gt

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I usually just use the eggshell itself and kind of pass it back and forth, can separate it that way.
 

eighty6gt

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actually, I took my bedframe apart. An actual good puller is also worth a lot.

IMG_20170514_091957.jpg IMG_20170514_092346.jpg
 
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Exit Wounds

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OK, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. Ill have to try a different puller. I'll check the shift shaft seal too. Anyone know what the torque is for the nut off the top of their heads?
 

rocky61201

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OK, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. Ill have to try a different puller. I'll check the shift shaft seal too. Anyone know what the torque is for the nut off the top of their heads?

105 ft lbs. Here is the torque specs for everything on the 3650.
 

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  • TR3650 Tourque Specs.pdf
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Exit Wounds

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Also , when torquing the flange on the car, just put it in gear to keep it from spinning, my best guess?
 

eighty6gt

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Also , when torquing the flange on the car, just put it in gear to keep it from spinning, my best guess?


Or put two bolts in the yoke and use a prybar to resist... my picture above shows a huge piece of angle bolted to the flange that hit my leg as I operated the breaker bar. Very easy for removing/retorquing the nut. I replaced the nut with a new one. I replaced the seal. Some RTV might be a good idea.
 

rocky61201

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Also , when torquing the flange on the car, just put it in gear to keep it from spinning, my best guess?

Sorry brother, that aint gonna work. You will start cranking the motor over by hand.
 
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eighty6gt

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yeah but... how much patience have you got for dealing with garbage tools. Have to fix the garage wall when you throw the busted puller through it. Maybe have a divorce?? $$$$$$$
 

rocky61201

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Already got divorced and still paying for it (but it was so worth it), that's why I shop at Harbor Freight, lol.

Seriously, if I plan on using a tool more than 2 or 3 times a year I don't buy it at Harbor Freight. But the pullers and bearing separator plates I bought there have helped me rebuild the 3650 at least 3 or 4 times.
 

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