Fake_Snake
FAUX GT500
You could see mine when you come to Houston next week. And I'll check yours out
No homo
No homo
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You could see mine when you come to Houston next week. And I'll check yours out
No homo

got her done! still on stands as had a small leak around the damn temp sensor bung.. ugh . going to drop the pan and weld in a real bung instead of that garbage sent with the pan.
I am going to include some info that may help others. going to write it all up and just drop it in on this thread. As far as wiring, all worked as planned and happy about that!![]()
I know you didn't just say "show me yours and Ill show you mine"... LOL
See you in Houston.
Lol, I typed it out read it and was still like fuck it lol he will get what I'm saying!
I pulled the plate off to reconnect my ac fan plug, I think I might have them raise the shifter up about a 1/2-1" for a more ergonomic feeling
Nice crown
I've been getting use to the whole shifting thing. Ive yet to try out the trans brake.
I bring the car back to the tuner tomorrow for a final WOT tune session hopefully wensday (my work schedule has me dropping it off that early)..
Your having the same problems I have with my car. With the stick tune in the computer the reverse lights stay on and with the auto tune in they work properly. The problem is the car will not run with the auto tune. I think we are going to wire them to the trans brake button because I need to use it for reverse anyway.
take a look at the stock 5r wiring diagram:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile=Transmission Controls - 5R55S.pdf
- the neutral safety switch in the DTR pins 10 and 12. Not having these plugged in or otherwise connected will prevent the car from starting of course.
- there's a set of unused connectors that only connects when reverse is selected; those could theoretically be used for reverse light control.
It's strange that reverse is detected when plugged in and in all positions.
IIRC, the switch on the 4r is a little different, and that may be causing some of your issues, too, in that it's sending the wring position to the pcm.
Of course a manual pcm does not use the same circuit:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile=Reversing Lamps.pdf

I suspect the reverse lamps difference is wired into the pcm circuits and pins, and that tuning cant change it.
Now that I think about it, I think I added a wire for the manual pcm for the backup lights circuit, since it is a different pcm pin, then wired the proper wire together for reverse detection from a manual. This is using a modified auto harness with a manual pcm.
Either way, the pcm controls the backup lights via a network signal to the sjb. Using the stock circuits, you have to get the pcm to know when it is and is not in backup position. Yuk.
Lol, yeah I clearanced my tunnel there for a little more room. Th 4r is a lot bigger indeed.
All I know (which is not much) is that I had to work on getting my reverse lights to work properly. The wiring harness I used apparently uses the reverse switch in the mlps, and as I mentioned, I added a wire to the pcm connector for manual reverse detection. Using those two, my reverse lights work properly. Until I did this, my reverse lights stayed on all the time, too, I think, or at least they weren't working at all; even with a manual pcm.