BadPiggy
Hooligan Ahole
Haha... Its a shame because I have a set on order of the OEM ones.
If I hadn't ordered the OEM ones, I might have jumped on this.
Thank you for the hook up though!!
Now share the info, Bruce!
Please???
2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...
- Thread starter AutoXRacer
- Start date
Now share the info, Bruce!
Please???
AutoXRacer
Senior Member
I did some more test fitting last night with the rear brakes. Not that I really needed to, up figured for a comparison between the stock and these new Baer.
Here are the pads installed, you can see it closer to the edge of the rotor than the OEM setup.
Here is the unused surface area:
This is worst on the OEM setup.
Here is my OEM setup, please excuse the rust. I had washed the car prior to jacking her up for surgery. lol
As you can see there is a ring on the outter edge and inner ring around the hub that does not see contact with the pad.
Here are the pads installed, you can see it closer to the edge of the rotor than the OEM setup.
Here is the unused surface area:
This is worst on the OEM setup.
Here is my OEM setup, please excuse the rust. I had washed the car prior to jacking her up for surgery. lol
As you can see there is a ring on the outter edge and inner ring around the hub that does not see contact with the pad.
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
That is the same as mine were when I ran those rotors.
AutoXRacer
Senior Member
Which ones are you referring to?
The ROUSH/OEM size rotors or the Baers?
What rotors are you running now?
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
The Bear 14" rears. I have stock size Poerslot rotors now to clear my 15" wheels.
AutoXRacer
Senior Member
What was your experience with the Baer 14" rears?
Did you like them? Did it feel like the car had more braking (reduced distance)?
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
I liked them. I only bought them to fill up the 20"wheels and really didn't think it made a huge difference in braking till I removed them. Then I realized how nice they were. I had them on all four corners.
AutoXRacer
Senior Member
So after researching endless manufacturers of catch cans more appropriately air oil separators (AOS) I have finally settled on one; Crawford AOS.
OK, let me explain why I chose this route. I have tried several "Mustang" catch cans and they all suck without exception. You still get oil into the intake; obviously less than not having a catch can...but it still filters through. They are just too small and poorly designed to be effective. How can you have the inlet and outlet in the same plane and just be filtered by a mesh media??
Speaking with my engine builder, the preferred setup is to have the PCV system intact mainly due to the vacuum pulling in the crankcase. If no other options exists to remove the oil out of the PCV system, then breathers are OK. But the best setup is to have vacuum present in the crankcase; this will provide a much better ring seal.
Anyway, turbo imports have been dealing with oil in the intake for years; aftermarket world for import catch cans have the most development experience and the best setups.
Here is the Crawford AOS; this is their Version 2 can which incorporates plumbing to connect your heater coolant system that allows the AOS to maintain warm and eliminate condensation.
The as designed use of this AOS is that it will return the oil collected in the can to the oil pan for a maintenance free system. Very similar to setups used in diesels and other OEM vehicles; like the MANN HUMMEL AOS.
Here is an x-ray of the internals:
Here is the internals of the Crawford AOS Version 1 (without heater coolant option):
As you can see, its chambered. This design creates a swirl pot where any liquid suspended in the air will smack against the walls and gravity will pull it down. The Subaru guys love this can as it removes 99% of all oil.
I will be getting the Version 1 without the heater option as I do not want to route more plumbing in the engine bay, plus I am not setting it up to drain the collected oil back into the oil pan.
The overall dimensions are 3" outer diameter and 6" in length.
In the meantime, I have been working on wiring and gauge installations.
I will be redoing my gauges (current setup):
So I will be moving the ROUSH boost gauge to the driver side vent closest to the door.
I ordered two Innovate Motorsports MTX-L AFR gauges and I will be replacing my Aeroforce gauge for a new current model. The gauges in the SOS triple pod will now be all black (black bezel and black face).
OK, let me explain why I chose this route. I have tried several "Mustang" catch cans and they all suck without exception. You still get oil into the intake; obviously less than not having a catch can...but it still filters through. They are just too small and poorly designed to be effective. How can you have the inlet and outlet in the same plane and just be filtered by a mesh media??
Speaking with my engine builder, the preferred setup is to have the PCV system intact mainly due to the vacuum pulling in the crankcase. If no other options exists to remove the oil out of the PCV system, then breathers are OK. But the best setup is to have vacuum present in the crankcase; this will provide a much better ring seal.
Anyway, turbo imports have been dealing with oil in the intake for years; aftermarket world for import catch cans have the most development experience and the best setups.
Here is the Crawford AOS; this is their Version 2 can which incorporates plumbing to connect your heater coolant system that allows the AOS to maintain warm and eliminate condensation.
The as designed use of this AOS is that it will return the oil collected in the can to the oil pan for a maintenance free system. Very similar to setups used in diesels and other OEM vehicles; like the MANN HUMMEL AOS.
Here is an x-ray of the internals:
Here is the internals of the Crawford AOS Version 1 (without heater coolant option):
As you can see, its chambered. This design creates a swirl pot where any liquid suspended in the air will smack against the walls and gravity will pull it down. The Subaru guys love this can as it removes 99% of all oil.
I will be getting the Version 1 without the heater option as I do not want to route more plumbing in the engine bay, plus I am not setting it up to drain the collected oil back into the oil pan.
The overall dimensions are 3" outer diameter and 6" in length.
In the meantime, I have been working on wiring and gauge installations.
I will be redoing my gauges (current setup):
So I will be moving the ROUSH boost gauge to the driver side vent closest to the door.
I ordered two Innovate Motorsports MTX-L AFR gauges and I will be replacing my Aeroforce gauge for a new current model. The gauges in the SOS triple pod will now be all black (black bezel and black face).
Last edited:
skwerl
tree hugger
I was admiring your sharp interior and noticed the 10" tall shifter. WTF? Looks like it belongs on a tractor!
Anyway, I was wondering if you had any news on the engine. Looking forward to seeing you get this thing back together and experiencing its full potential.
Anyway, I was wondering if you had any news on the engine. Looking forward to seeing you get this thing back together and experiencing its full potential.
AutoXRacer
Senior Member
Haha, that's the original ROUSH shifter that came in the ROUSH cars from 05-09 or with the TR3560. This is an old picture when I was running my stock drivetrain. NASCAR style baby!! LOL
Right now, the shortblock is torn apart needing a set of new pistons.
I have not been able to source out a new set as no one has them, not even Manley. So Manley needs to machine a set; 4-6 weeks. The bonus, I haven't been able to order it yet due to east coast storms (snow). sigh
No one has been at work to answer phones.
BruceH
BBB Big Bore Boss 322
Haha, that's the original ROUSH shifter that came in the ROUSH cars from 05-09 or with the TR3560. This is an old picture when I was running my stock drivetrain. NASCAR style baby!! LOL
Right now, the shortblock is torn apart needing a set of new pistons.
I have not been able to source out a new set as no one has them, not even Manley. So Manley needs to machine a set; 4-6 weeks. The bonus, I haven't been able to order it yet due to east coast storms (snow). sigh
No one has been at work to answer phones.
Are you looking for 3.562" or .010" over? Try Wiseco from Greg. They even come with rings.
AutoXRacer
Senior Member
I need 0.010" over pistons. The machine shop has called everyone and no one has anything on their shelves.
AutoXRacer
Senior Member
New cans are roughly $300. But its cheaper to call them and order just the can without all the hardware.
BruceH
BBB Big Bore Boss 322
Like I said check out Wiseco from Greg. .010 over is a stocking piston for them. Or just go .020 over like most people do. They are also available on ebay if you search but Greg has better prices and is someone you know.
Does your machine shop have experience with mod motors?
Edit: This is an ebay search with the term "3.562 pistons". Find the Wiseco part number you want and pm Greg with it. Easy. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=3.562+pistons&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Last edited:
lito
Senior Member
Does them come with the correct CD?
BruceH
BBB Big Bore Boss 322
CD? Compression height?
lito
Senior Member
Yes, compression distance/height/whatever, sorry, lol.
BruceH
BBB Big Bore Boss 322
1.220" Correct for a stock stroke. I just realized Gerald has a stroker. Ok, now it all makes sense.
AutoXRacer
Senior Member
I just spoke with JDM and pistons were placed on order to Manley last week!! WAHOO!!
So I should see them sometime in 3-6 weeks.
In the meantime I need to get all this wiring done, front brakes redone, and new fuel lines!!
So I should see them sometime in 3-6 weeks.
In the meantime I need to get all this wiring done, front brakes redone, and new fuel lines!!
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