DOB Install

[BruceH]

That's too bad. I had a leaking snout and they gave me a few options. I could send mine in and they would fix it. They would send a new snout and charge me $300 but refund it when they got mine back. Or they would send a repair kit with the bearing and seals for free. I opted for the kit. BTW this was with my blower being way out of warranty.

Except for the time Art chewed me out for sending frpp some pics of something that wasn't right they have been pretty good to me.

Good deal on the pump.

and uhmmm... I specifically asked how much to install a snout with a 3 5/16 drive. Was told $430. COOL! well,, that did not include shipping, OR THE SNOUT (I kinda felt I was misled on the phone although I doubt it was intentional). Was almost $1000 all said and done with labor (for changing the snout), parts (snout) tax and shipping (insured for $5k iirc). I was a little perturbed when I reviewed the bill. THEIR website had the drive listed MUCH cheaper than I was charged. When I asked about it they said "hum.. did not know that was even listed on the website.. and that price is old". They would not honor the website price.. and even worse.. IT WAS STILL ON THERE a couple weeks ago for the "OLD" price.. sigh.

 

[crownaviation]

That's too bad. I had a leaking snout and they gave me a few options. I could send mine in and they would fix it. They would send a new snout and charge me $300 but refund it when they got mine back. Or they would send a repair kit with the bearing and seals for free. I opted for the kit. BTW this was with my blower being way out of warranty.

Except for the time Art chewed me out for sending frpp some pics of something that wasn't right they have been pretty good to me.

Lol.. yeah from what I hear frpp drops the hammer and get their vendors attention.

I am sure the guy likely thought I already had the snout and needed it installed. Oh well simple mixup and not like they cut off the wrong testicle or arm etc. Only money I would do it all over again if asked so there is that. Nice blower

 

[Department Of Boost]

Glad to see you got the IC pump sorted. The IAT's should be about 10deg over ambient (that's what ours were) when running down the freeway. Buried in traffic is a different story. No air moving through the HE and no "new" air moving through the blower/intake makes for some impressive heat soak.

The Whipple snout thing is a little confusing. The snouts are only about $400. But, if you want to put a snout on a GT500 blower with a "zero offset" snout you need more parts than just the new snout. You need to replace some stuff in the drive case which needs to be pressed off and then the rotors need to be re-timed.

If you did want a 2.9L I can get you a new one built with the correct snout right from the start though. Probably less expensive than buying a used GT500 one and converting it.

That said, if you are planning on running a 6 or 8 rib system it may be as easy as just making a custom pulley with the correct offset. We can do that no problem.

With your setup I would run a 13' GT500 TVS and be done with it though. That little fella is a monster and on e85 you can make 800 out of it no problem.

Or you could probably go 1000hp with the 2.9.

Or 1300+ with a 3.4L and a R-Spec........................if you could keep the heads on it

Thanks Bruce!

 

[o2sys]

Where is the ambiant temp being measured when using the obdii?

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[BruceH]

Where is the ambiant temp being measured when using the obdii?

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I think it's inferred from the iat, not sure. When I compare to ambient I'm using actual temp, not what obd shows. The temps that are shown for iat and coolant are pretty close to actual ambient temp at start up.

BTW the DOB kit relocates the head temp sensor into coolant. Since the normal measurement comes from head temp -4 degrees it's a good idea to correct it in the tune. I can't remember the parameter right now but there was one that reflected how much was added or subtracted from the reading for coolant temp display. Since some of the spark adder/subtracters are based on ect it's important that it's correct.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Didn't know there was such a thing. Nothing shows on Roush's site. Would it be this one?

http://www.stage3motorsports.com/2158WR-2005-2008-Mustang-w-Roush-SC-PA-Performance-130A-6G-Alternator.html

It is hard to tell from that picture but the description seems to fit. Brenspeed sells them too.
http://www.brenspeed.com/2158wr-fb.html

Wanted to let you guys know we have custom DENSO 165A alternators (not the junk Motorcraft 135A units that come apart inside) that are a direct bolt on for $325. They are powdercoated black and come with or without ears.

In 2010 Ford started putting the Denso alternators on all the Mustangs because they were having so many problems with the Motorcraft ones. The OEM ones are only 135A though.

 

[BruceH]

Just looked it up. The factory tune uses act - 2 degrees to obtain ambient. It will only update once certain conditions are met like cht and vehicle speed.

Where is the ambiant temp being measured when using the obdii?

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[BruceH]

FYI on the belt. I used a Dayco 5061360. It's 136" and a 6 rib. It's also the stock belt for late model GM Diesels.

Cost is $24 from Rock auto. In order to fit I used a 90mm idler on the tensioner, 90mm on the driver side, 76mm on the passenger side and on the DOB alternator bracket. I also used a Saleen water pump pulley.

I think it would also work with a V10 water pump pulley and a larger idler on the alternator bracket. The multiple holes in the bracket allow for a good range of adjustability. I like knowing that I'm running a belt that is somewhat common and inexpensive.

I might get a V10 pulley just to see if it will work. I'm not a fan of the red anodized Saleen pulley looks. It really sticks out.


Here's a picture of what might be the final belt configuration, lol. I still need to route the alternator power wire. Right now it just lays on top of the blower. It should be able to go around the back and under the cai without altering the cable. It will also go under the snout but doesn't look as clean. Another option is to move the battery 180 degrees to obtain more power cable length.

 

[BruceH]

It's getting switched over to 92 octane pump gas, probably tomorrow. The boost gauge is showing 5psi at wot with the 3" pulley. I imagine the cnc heads and increased displacement have something to do with that.

If I play with the Wallace Racing calculators for ballpark figures the 12:1 compression and 5psi is a boost compression ratio of 16:1. A comparison would be the 5.0 at 11:1 and 7psi or a stock motor with 9.86:1 and 9psi.

 

[crownaviation]

I likely missed it but are you running a underdrive crank pulley? I know your goals are for running low boost for low IAT and also have high compression as it is.. E85 hard to find where you are at? Is pump gas going to like that combo with that high compression?

 

[dysan]

I broke in my current engine on pump gas and 6-8psi of boost which is around the same boost compression as Bruce is going to have and I had no issues. It's all in the tune of course and I will run my car on pump gas during the winter, E85 the rest of the year.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I likely missed it but are you running a underdrive crank pulley?

Nope, standard crank pulley. But with 326 cu in, ported heads and I think he has cams it's just not going to make the standard 10-11psi with the 3" pulley.

I sent him a 2.65 so if he want to turn it way up on e85 he can do that too.

We did a whole bunch of math/guessing to come up with his pulley combo's. Looks like we got pretty close.

Is pump gas going to like that combo with that high compression?

He can run 92 and the 3" pulley no problem.

 

[mikeramirez23]

Bruce, what are you using to tune with? Thanks

 

[BruceH]

I likely missed it but are you running a underdrive crank pulley? I know your goals are for running low boost for low IAT and also have high compression as it is.. E85 hard to find where you are at? Is pump gas going to like that combo with that high compression?

It shouldn't be too much of a problem. I did the switch today. I've run higher psi with an 11:1 motor and 92 gas before. The cylinder pressure should be about the same as a Coyote (11:1) with 7psi.

Bruce, what are you using to tune with? Thanks

SCT Advantage 3 Pro Racer.

 

[o2sys]

I like that Saleen water pump pulley, what does it do?

 

[BruceH]

I like that Saleen water pump pulley, what does it do?

It's larger and allows me to use a belt that's commonly available for GM diesel trucks.

 

[BruceH]

Even on gasoline with low spark advance and a fat a/f ratio it hauls. Got on it today in 2nd at about 40 and almost lost control because the back end kicked out so fast. This wasn't at wot but it was close. There is something about a pd blower and the instant torque that makes it a little hairy at times.

Based on my previous experience with a pd blower I'd say it's between 500 and 525rwhp right now. I really need to make it to the dyno. I may take some out of the driver demand torque table to try and make it a little more linear in the power delivery. Or maybe I should just run drag radials all the time. I have a set of 275/50/17 M&H tires coming. Already have a set of American Racing Bullitts in 17x9 for the tires. If they are as sticky as the 275/45/18 version was then they will hold power just fine.

So far so good with the DOB. I really like the pd whine too. If a TVS ever comes up for around $1400 I'll probably switch it out. About the only complaint I have is the iats but I knew that they would be higher than I'm used to prior to the purchase. Still wish they were lower though, lol. A TVS would be cooler running and require less rpm to keep the same power level. A set of fans might be in order for the heat exchanger in the interim.

 

[stkjock]

Sounds good

 

[Department Of Boost]

There is something about a pd blower and the instant torque that makes it a little hairy at times.

Sounds perfect.

About the only complaint I have is the iats but I knew that they would be higher than I'm used to prior to the purchase. Still wish they were lower though, lol. A TVS would be cooler running and require less rpm to keep the same power level. A set of fans might be in order for the heat exchanger in the interim.

That is so odd, what are they? Every car around here with a GT450 setup has really low IAT's. I wonder what the variable is?

 

[BruceH]

It might depend on what you call low. I'm seeing about 40-50 over ambient on a route that heated the whipple up to 20-30. That's a mixed driving loop. So far the highway has been about 30-40 but I haven't done a lot of highway driving to get a real good average.

They still aren't out of control but having 120 on a day in the low 70's is more than I'd like to see. I monitor the iat all the time, it's programmed to come up on my plx gauge at startup. I wonder how many people monitor the iat on a constant basis like I do. It's part of my normal driving routine to scan gauges.

One thing I haven't done much of is to compare iat to water temp at start up. Every other setup I've had they are very close with a cold motor startup. Maybe the sensor itself is off? I'll pay more attention at start up tomorrow.

Sounds perfect.


That is so odd, what are they? Every car around here with a GT450 setup has really low IAT's. I wonder what the variable is?