turbo guys and Coolent temps

Sprayer84

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The Aeroforce uses the PCM data stream so that should work. I don't think both sensors would be wrong. But you could use an ir temp gun or just a thermometer to see what the actual coolant temp is for comparison.
 

Makdaddy

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The Aeroforce uses the PCM data stream so that should work. I don't think both sensors would be wrong. But you could use an ir temp gun or just a thermometer to see what the actual coolant temp is for comparison.


Yea a buddy of mine has that.
But Ill have to wait till a monday or tuesday.

If its not the T stat Im running out of ideas.
its never over heated per say
The last run I did before the new fans it got to 240 with the air on,as soon as I turned the air off it started to come back down, the dash gauge went just a little passed half when it was at 240

The Fans come on when the air is So the high speed should be working correct?
 
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Makdaddy

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Well Im not sure what happened
Messed around with maybe hot wiring the fans to a switch off the battery.
They tested fine.
But then I put it back to the stock sensor for fan control.
Took the car back out. Did like 50 miles.
temps seem top be ok,its only 75 out but running around town it was at 197.
With the air on max it was 204 got up to 208 but never any higher
Stuck it around the lake road at a nice 45 MPH cruise with air on max and it stayed at 199, came back into town after and it went back to around 204
Stopped and got gas
When I left ,the stop temp reached 212 , But that to be expected, I ran the car like 10 to 15 blocks no ac and the car came down to 197
I cant wait ill its 85 or hotter later in the week to see what it does.
 

Makdaddy

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So it was 85 out today
Car got to 220 with air on in town
Hit the highway and it started to come down to 210 short run then I took the exit
Without air it still runs at 199 and dosent seem to climb much over that even in town
The air seems to make the big difference
Im starting to feel that it wont get any better unless I drop the t stat down
 
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Makdaddy

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Finally got back to the car
Got the 170 T Stat in and all the painted parts installed

car still runs 230 Head temp with the air on
Started to look at temps on components with a laser heat reading gun

Funny the gun will show 193 on the tstat housing and about the same on the bottom rad hose, Valve covers show like 203
Areo Force still reads 230 Head temp

Going to let it cool over nite
Will pick locations to log with the laser gun, and try to validate that the heat isnt really at 230
 

Makdaddy

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OK after making several passes intown and Highway
The car ran up to 240 in town with Air on
Taking to the highway helped some, But I cant get temps down till I turn off the air
Air off and running 214 on the high way (Head Temp)
When I slow down to take the off ramp temps will drop by the time i get stopped to turn around its down to 204
Start back on high way and they go back up
get in the drive way
The Gauge says the Water temp is 197 Head temp like 210 212
I check the lower rad hose with heat gun 198 check the t stat housing and its the same 198
This is with the car running.
Shouldnt the lower rad hose show a cooler temp after going thru the rad?
So is it poor air flow ( FANS SUCK) or is it poor Water flow (bad Pump)
Im still lost
May need to take it to someone smarter then me.
Thinking about trying the M-8C607-MSVT fan.
 

07 Boss

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Haven't followed the whole thread and really not sure what the issue is, but I always recommend getting an electric Meziere pump to help with engine cooling. I know it's not that accurate, but my factory gauge has since moved to one notch below center where it used to sit and has never budged higher than that. It does get lower than that when I sit idling. With little heat being generated and the pump running at full speed actually lowers the temp which is opposite of most cars with a mechanical pump.
 

Makdaddy

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Haven't followed the whole thread and really not sure what the issue is, but I always recommend getting an electric Meziere pump to help with engine cooling. I know it's not that accurate, but my factory gauge has since moved to one notch below center where it used to sit and has never budged higher than that. It does get lower than that when I sit idling. With little heat being generated and the pump running at full speed actually lowers the temp which is opposite of most cars with a mechanical pump.

Agreed
I now have the fans wired to run all the time on high
Still no help
The fans are def moving a good amount of air
Im starting to think its water flow as well
When checking with the heat gun I have the same heat on top and on the bottom hose.
Im not sure if its a weak water pump or trapped air in the system
On recommendation was to take the T stat housing off without draining to see if its full to the brim in the block

It may be getting time to take it to a Professional
Im almost out of Ideas
I will be putting it back on the lift and reviewing water path
Looking at How close the hoses are to the turbo piping
But thats a real stretch
 

Makdaddy

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M-8C607-MSVT Coming in the mail
If this dosent fix it.

Well lets just say, I give up
May be a Mustang for sale cheap
I need the garage space back
And will be posting all the mods I never got installed waiting to fix the crappy heat issue.
 

Makdaddy

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Hope that helps.

me too Lito
I would like to finish the tune we started and never finished I know its been a few years.

Have you replaced the radiator cap...?

No Sir I can throw that in the mix its cheap enough
Ill get one today

When (or if) you removed the thermostat, did it help?


When you did your most recent testing, what was the air temps and humidity?

No new Riesch 170 T stat made no diff
We put the belly pan under the car on as well thinking maybe air flo issue.


I tested this week
85 High Humidity this week
I wired the twin FDynamic fans to run full out all the time from the bettery
I can feel the air move
But I ran the car till it got how and parked it in the driveway wiwth air on and running. Temp kept climbing with the fans on high

Funny when all heated up I check with a Laser Heat gun and I really dont see any cool off on the RAD
I check the T stat Housing and it matches the lower rad hose
I should be seeing a drop on the lower rad hose
I suppose a bad cap = no pressure = no water flow= no cooling
 
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Sky Render

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Bad radiator caps can cause weirdness. I replace all of mine at 50k miles now.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk
 

Makdaddy

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Bad radiator caps can cause weirdness. I replace all of mine at 50k miles now.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk
Well Ill be kicking myself if a $7 cap fixes this
But I would also be relieved
Its rainy and cooled way down here
I should be back up to hot and Humid this Sat
Ill see what the cap does this weekend.
And if that dosent fix it
I will still have a new fan to install
 

Makdaddy

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WOOT WOOT

M-8C607-MSVT= FIXED

So we got the new fan in today
Only 82 degrees out but real muggy from all the rain
Car ran with the air on at 205 Head temp and 195 coolant temp
Its supposed to be 90 and hot tommorow
That will be the test
But Im confident its fixed. THANK GOODNESS
 

Pentalab

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WOOT WOOT

M-8C607-MSVT= FIXED

So we got the new fan in today
Only 82 degrees out but real muggy from all the rain
Car ran with the air on at 205 Head temp and 195 coolant temp
Its supposed to be 90 and hot tommorow
That will be the test
But Im confident its fixed. THANK GOODNESS

Excellent. You can change the low + high fan settings on the SCT-X3, this is based on eng coolant temps. My low speed fan setting is 204F. High speed fan setting is 210 F.

With a 190 F T stat...and idling in the driveway, 75F outside (+ AC off).... eng coolant hits 204F..at which point the low speed fan kicks in..and coolant temps drop. Once coolant temp hits 194F, the low speed fan shuts off. Then the temp starts to rise...and the process just repeats.

The HE on my 2010 Roush M90 is 18" tall x 21" wide...and gets hit by air from both upper + lower grilles. It's not quite as tall or wide as the oem AC rad behind it. Head temps are typ 10-12 deg F higher than coolant temps. I have 3 x aeroforce gauges on the A pillar. I'm using oem stock eng rad /shroud /fan etc, etc. I did add a 2nd Auto tranny cooler ( B+M) in series with the oem auto tranny rad. Both tranny rads sit in front of the oem eng rad.

What kind of upper grille do you have on the car ? I replaced the oem upper grille on my 2010 with the 7 bar upper grille. Airflow through the upper grille was substantially improved. With either the lo /hi speed eng fan on, I can now feel the air being sucked through the upper grille. oem upper grille on the 10-12 cars is fubar. Its mostly blocked off.
 

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