NEW EXHAUST COMBO with blower 05 GT

eighty6gt

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That would be immeasurable.

This is where this entire thing starts to stink and blow - how much boost did you lose with long tube headers, 1, 1.5 psi, how much did your IAT's go up per psi, 30 degrees... when did you pull timing, 135 degrees.

The most important thing is to leave money in the bank, I guess. I also get cat protection engaging quite a bit on my car with the OEM cats.
 

NickD87

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Shan, I have less ground clearance with my long tubes then I did with the last set up and your lower then I am.
I don't think for the cost it's worth it.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

Department Of Boost

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This is where this entire thing starts to stink and blow - how much boost did you lose with long tube headers, 1, 1.5 psi, how much did your IAT's go up per psi, 30 degrees... when did you pull timing, 135 degrees.

The most important thing is to leave money in the bank, I guess. I also get cat protection engaging quite a bit on my car with the OEM cats.

1psi of boost is about 15deg DISCHARGE temp on a M90. After the IC it's 5-7deg. Maybe. That will fluctuate on the effectiveness of the IC system.

If the OP is looking to throw money at it he should go for a big HE and pump. He will absolutely see gains there.
 

eighty6gt

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my #'s were from brians vmp 1.9 tvs build - taken at the IAT sensor!! It's the most smoking hot blower out there, makes the M90 seem like a real cool cat*


*allegedly.

I am still at a loss as to whether I'm going to be able to run 12-14 psi with that combo and the factory exhaust on 91. I don't believe so.
 
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06monera96

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I come to a conclusion...

Labour 600
BBK LT 500
Catted H pipe another 600
Retune 300US or 500 local
... over 2 grand

Plus MY car is DD ... and already low... I dont even know what would happen if i chipped a LT on a pot hole...

I think ill stick to stock. and maybe try high flow when my stockers.
So far they are holding up very well
 

Department Of Boost

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I come to a conclusion...

Labour 600
BBK LT 500
Catted H pipe another 600
Retune 300US or 500 local
... over 2 grand

Plus MY car is DD ... and already low... I dont even know what would happen if i chipped a LT on a pot hole...

I think ill stick to stock. and maybe try high flow when my stockers.
So far they are holding up very well


If you're looking for more HP/TQ.....or more specifically having the power that the car makes much more often you can throw a couple of bucks at intercooler system parts. A big HE and pump. Unless you're cooling you car down for HOURS between runs at the track, pushing it through the staging lanes and not doing a burnout this will help you tremendously. And even if you're doing all of that it will probably still help.

It will absolutely help all the time on the street.

This is literally the best deal going by a LONG shot. The HE is the biggest one you can get, including the aftermarket and that pump will flow about twice the water.

Pump:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-up-Pierburg-Electric-Water-Pump-12v-Intercooler-Turbo-CWA50-BMW-Ford-/301868988494?hash=item4648cb384e

HE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/13-14-Mustang-Shelby-GT500-Supercharger-Intercooler-Heat-Exchanger-Radiator-OEM-/222236971847?fits=Model%3AMustang%7CSubmodel%3AShelby+GT500&hash=item33be5b1347:g:ngsAAOSwvzRXybGt&vxp=mtr
 

BruceH

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Boost is a measure of restriction. Less boost with the same blower speed should equal the same airflow, just a little more efficiently.

In other words a boost increase doesn't always equal an increase in hp and a reduction of boost doesn't always equal a reduction in power. The only way to really know what will happen in your case is to do it.

With that said it would be a whole lot of money for the hp return, if any. If you have bigger plans for the future then maybe this would be part of that foundation and make sense.
 

mpm_1

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I believe it’s something like a 0.3 hp change for each 100 cfm of air flow for a 1 psi change (not considering efficiency loss plus a few other assumptions around level of adiabatic or isothermal compression.)

As noted there isn’t more air moving and the combustion energy released in-cylinder is basically the same. The pumping work however is lower. Less work is required off the nose of the crank to drive the blower therefore more goes to the flywheel.

Less compression also means less temperature rise in the compressed air which directionally helps.

But, in my opinion all of this is in the noise of meaningful difference and not what I’d base a decision on. The one thing I would tell you, as the owner of a M90 car, is either be happy with a M90 and low 400s RWHP (like me) or change direction entirely. Sell all M90 related parts to someone who wants an entry level PD system and switch over to something that doesn’t have to work as hard (spin as fast) / isn’t as inefficient in delivering the same amount of air, and has capacity to move more air if you want to take it further (TVS 2300 or the like if you want to stay PD.) That or whatever mods you buy make sure they’re compatible with another blower arrangement so you can continue to use them if you switch over.

End of unsolicited advice…
 

06monera96

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I believe it’s something like a 0.3 hp change for each 100 cfm of air flow for a 1 psi change (not considering efficiency loss plus a few other assumptions around level of adiabatic or isothermal compression.)

As noted there isn’t more air moving and the combustion energy released in-cylinder is basically the same. The pumping work however is lower. Less work is required off the nose of the crank to drive the blower therefore more goes to the flywheel.

Less compression also means less temperature rise in the compressed air which directionally helps.

But, in my opinion all of this is in the noise of meaningful difference and not what I’d base a decision on. The one thing I would tell you, as the owner of a M90 car, is either be happy with a M90 and low 400s RWHP (like me) or change direction entirely. Sell all M90 related parts to someone who wants an entry level PD system and switch over to something that doesn’t have to work as hard (spin as fast) / isn’t as inefficient in delivering the same amount of air, and has capacity to move more air if you want to take it further (TVS 2300 or the like if you want to stay PD.) That or whatever mods you buy make sure they’re compatible with another blower arrangement so you can continue to use them if you switch over.

End of unsolicited advice…

Pretty darn happy at 400/400
doesnt get hot
Hot lapping isn't an issue, I have stop doing it now to keep the engine safe.

400/400 is pretty much where I feel safe with the 3v motor and the stock rods.


Stock seems to be holding up well when they blow ill get some HQ cats
 

06monera96

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I have a hard time believing that. Do you track IAT2's?

Yes sir I do!

on a HOT day, ill sit between 120 and 134F

At the burnout box i am at 130.

Once I am done a pass passing the tree. I am down to 125 back to the staging lane.

All datalogs show no timing being pulled. nothing over 140.

I hot lapped my car 6 back to back time.
It only got faster every time, then I started smelling the cats lol
 

Department Of Boost

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Yes sir I do!

on a HOT day, ill sit between 120 and 134F

At the burnout box i am at 130.

Once I am done a pass passing the tree. I am down to 125 back to the staging lane.

All datalogs show no timing being pulled. nothing over 140.

I hot lapped my car 6 back to back time.
It only got faster every time, then I started smelling the cats lol

That's very impressive for a M90. What HE and pump are you running? How much boost?
 

Wes06

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Those iats don't count when ambient is -20
:p
 

Wes06

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I meant being in Canada and it being so damn cold that iat is cheating :p
 

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