"Fool" the OEM Oil Pressure Gauge?

1950StangJump$

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Couldn't find this in a search.

I'm installing an MMR oil filter relocation kit. It eliminates the OEM Oil filter adapter that is on the block . . . and which houses the OEM oil pressure sensor. Contrary to its advertisement, the MMR relocation kit does not have a spot for a 1/4" NPT, which is required for the OEM sensor.

I have a Prosport pressure gauge via 1/8" NPT sender that serves my purpose, so I don't need the factor oil gauge to be functional. But, I don't want the factory gauge to sit on zero and be lit up because it thinks there is no pressure. Do I simply ground the wire that was going to the OEM sensor to make it read pressure, or does it need to see a particular value via a resistor?
 

Flusher

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Is there a good location (that will not block flow) where you can drill your new adapter with a 7/16" drill bit and tap 1/4NPT?
 

Macman45

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Couldn't find this in a search.

I'm installing an MMR oil filter relocation kit. It eliminates the OEM Oil filter adapter that is on the block . . . and which houses the OEM oil pressure sensor. Contrary to its advertisement, the MMR relocation kit does not have a spot for a 1/4" NPT, which is required for the OEM sensor.

I have a Prosport pressure gauge via 1/8" NPT sender that serves my purpose, so I don't need the factor oil gauge to be functional. But, I don't want the factory gauge to sit on zero and be lit up because it thinks there is no pressure. Do I simply ground the wire that was going to the OEM sensor to make it read pressure, or does it need to see a particular value via a resistor?

Ground it. Its a dummy light, on or off, with a sensor that triggers at around 5PSI. If you take the connector and ground it to the block, your cluster gauge will live at precisely where it is now, little over the middle. So dump but yes, if you've got a real backup, ground away. I did that with my Shelby gauge pod setup.
 

1950StangJump$

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Ground it. Its a dummy light, on or off, with a sensor that triggers at around 5PSI. If you take the connector and ground it to the block, your cluster gauge will live at precisely where it is now, little over the middle. So dump but yes, if you've got a real backup, ground away. I did that with my Shelby gauge pod setup.

Okay, that's what I wanted to confirm -- grounding that wire will result in the gauge going to the same spot and the oil pressure warning light going off?
 

1950StangJump$

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Yup. It's an on/off switch basically

thanks.

When you use aftermarket racing seats and want to fool the computer into thinking you still have the airbags, you have to add specific resistors to the line so the computers sees a specific value.


I was afraid I'd have to do that here. Was hoping it was only "grounded or not" when I saw it had only one wire.
 

Macman45

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thanks.

When you use aftermarket racing seats and want to fool the computer into thinking you still have the airbags, you have to add specific resistors to the line so the computers sees a specific value.


I was afraid I'd have to do that here. Was hoping it was only "grounded or not" when I saw it had only one wire.
Right. I had to change the resistors in the dummy plugs Ford sells for my seats, apparently that resistance value changes between 05-09 and 10-14. In any event, an oil pressure gauge that's a glorified idiot light on/off makes what you're trying to do very easy, but man isn't it weird?
 

1950StangJump$

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Yep. But, I'm glad it's that easy. Makes me less pissed of that MMR advertised there was a 1/4" spot when there wasn't
 

Flusher

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May i ask, what is the advantage of relocating the oil filter?
 

RED09GT

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With a turbo kit it gives you options for routing the piping but not sure why anyone else would do it, the stock filter is in an easy enough spot for maintenance.
 

1950StangJump$

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May i ask, what is the advantage of relocating the oil filter?

Fair Question.

I had used a "filter sandwich" adapter to give me a place to put oil temperature and oil pressure sending units. Unfortunately, when I added the beefed up BMR sway bar, using the sandwich brought the filter to a point of almost touching the larger sway bar. I literally had to drop the sway bar to remove the filter.

Then, there's that annoying deal with the filter dripping old oil all over the steering rack when you change it out.

Also, with the new motor I'm installing, it didn't come with the OEM filter adapter. The one on my old engine was pretty pitted after all these years, and I didn't trust it would work. So, I could buy a new OEM filter adapter for $155, or pay $230 for the relocation and fix all the issues mentioned above.

Plus, the MMR relocation has 1/8 NPT provisions for the oil pressure and temperature sensors, so the sandwich is no longer necessary. Even if I was peeved there was no 1/4 NPT port like advertised.
 

1950StangJump$

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It's a nice looking piece. But, if grounding the OEM gauge wire serves the same purpose, I'll just do that.

Keeping the OEM sensor serves only to be an extra alert if we lose virtually all oil pressure. My aftermarket oil pressure gauge has an audible alarm and turns red anytime pressure drops below whatever level I set, so I'm okay with that.
 

kerrynzl

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It's a nice looking piece. But, if grounding the OEM gauge wire serves the same purpose, I'll just do that.

Keeping the OEM sensor serves only to be an extra alert if we lose virtually all oil pressure. My aftermarket oil pressure gauge has an audible alarm and turns red anytime pressure drops below whatever level I set, so I'm okay with that.

You can go to a local "radio shack" and pick up a potentiometer for about $2 and use that to dial the gauge up or down to the needle position you want. Then measure the ohms across the potentiometer and buy/install a resistor [about 20c]
[I did this on my 57 Chevy's Temp gauge, while using a Mechanical gauge on a Rebuilt Engine because there was only 1 port available]

If you want to be High Tech [or like me, I cant stand things non-functional]
You could wire your audible alarm to also trigger a SPDT relay to switch off the ground on the gauge [and switch on the ground for a light at the same time if wanted]
 

Macman45

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You can go to a local "radio shack" and pick up a potentiometer for about $2 and use that to dial the gauge up or down to the needle position you want. Then measure the ohms across the potentiometer and buy/install a resistor [about 20c]
[I did this on my 57 Chevy's Temp gauge, while using a Mechanical gauge on a Rebuilt Engine because there was only 1 port available]

If you want to be High Tech [or like me, I cant stand things non-functional]
You could wire your audible alarm to also trigger a SPDT relay to switch off the ground on the gauge [and switch on the ground for a light at the same time if wanted]

thatd work if our cars oil temp gauge wasn’t Dummy. Regardless of signal if lives at that middle position. No change in resistance over a certain bit changes needle position. It’s on or off.
 

kerrynzl

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thatd work if our cars oil temp gauge wasn’t Dummy. Regardless of signal if lives at that middle position. No change in resistance over a certain bit changes needle position. It’s on or off.

Sh*t! That's a disappointment.
That explains why my car had a AIM dash from day one.

What's next..........a tune that makes your car idle with a lumpy cam
 

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